Fbm/machete

Convexing will help with penetration, but you can also convex the machete, of course, which begs the question about comparing "apples to apples". I have used a convexed Basic 9 extensively on light brush, and I prefer it to the machete on anything over about 1/2" diameter, but a sharp machete will still out-perform the B9 on the light stuff because it's so thin--the Basic 9 even with the convex edge will tend to push the light stuff out of the way without biting.

Long story short, I think convexing any edge for chopping is potentially an improvement, but other factors come into play that will still bracket one blade's efficiency as compared to another on a given media when there are significant differences in blade thickness, length, weight and balance.
 
Rich...have your FBM convexed. It will increase performance by 100%. It will be like a new knife. It is a day and night difference. Here some pics for you.

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WILL YORK said:
Convexing will help with penetration, but you can also convex the machete, of course, which begs the question about comparing "apples to apples". I have used a convexed Basic 9 extensively on light brush, and I prefer it to the machete on anything over about 1/2" diameter, but a sharp machete will still out-perform the B9 on the light stuff because it's so thin--the Basic 9 even with the convex edge will tend to push the light stuff out of the way without biting.

Long story short, I think convexing any edge for chopping is potentially an improvement, but other factors come into play that will still bracket one blade's efficiency as compared to another on a given media when there are significant differences in blade thickness, length, weight and balance.
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I think I am getting your point. I don't think I could convex the machete any more than it is. Did I misunderstand your post? My apologies if I did.

I think I am going to pick up a NMFBMLE and keep my FBMLE as is.
 
Condor machetes come with polished convex edges. They chop very well right out of the box. I have convexed my machetes. Where my FFBM really shines is splitting wood. That thick blade does a super job. Then there is the KZ. But I can't talk about it yet. :D
 
I convex every blade I use - I feel the performance of the edge geometry is a great mix of durability and penetration, and the only potential downside is field maintenance, which for me isn't a downside because I've learned how to do it by hand with a scrap of sandpaper.

If you put a quality convex on that edge, it will certainly improve the chopping ability, but the machete is still going to bite deeper. The only downside I've found to chopping with a machete is that its thin, flat blade can tend to bind up because it bites so deep. That's not an issue with a big beefy chopper.
 
I have a modded FBMLE with a convexed edge. The knife has not been thinned at all. The convex angle is robust. It does chop well. The smallish log has nice deep clean bites. A sharp machete will hold it's own and more against a thick beast like a FFBM, or FBMLE. They are thick and heavy. They excel at splitting wood, and battoning. I have cleared brush with my FBMLE, and at the end of an hour, my arm was aching, and my wrist was sore from doing snap cuts. A heavily thinned FBMCG would be ideal in that application. But It still would likely not beat a longer thinner machete with a good convex edge.

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I would add that the thickness of the blade right behind the edge of the FBM LE is probably quite a bit more than the machete, so you are trying to drive in a thicker wedge. A polished convex edge, like on your machete, will help; but thinning behind the edge, on any Fusion Mistress, wil make the biggest improvement.

I think a Scrap Yard machete, 14 - 18" blade in 0.10" SR77 would be an amazing tool.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I have a modded FBMLE with a convexed edge. The knife has not been thinned at all. The convex angle is robust. It does chop well. The smallish log has nice deep clean bites. A sharp machete will hold it's own and more against a thick beast like a FFBM, or FBMLE. They are thick and heavy. They excel at splitting wood, and battoning. I have cleared brush with my FBMLE, and at the end of an hour, my arm was aching, and my wrist was sore from doing snap cuts. A heavily thinned FBMCG would be ideal in that application. But It still would likely not beat a longer thinner machete with a good convex edge.

IMG_1966.jpg

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Thanks, that helps.

resinguy said:
I would add that the thickness of the blade right behind the edge of the FBM LE is probably quite a bit more than the machete, so you are trying to drive in a thicker wedge. A polished convex edge, like on your machete, will help; but thinning behind the edge, on any Fusion Mistress, wil make the biggest improvement.

I think a Scrap Yard machete, 14 - 18" blade in 0.10" SR77 would be an amazing tool.
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Do they make a machete like you are talking about?

I am hoping that the NMFBMLE will be just the balance that I am looking for. Only one way to find out.

Thanks for your comments.
 
I think matchetes aren't really made to be chopping down BIG trees as the blades are too thin and light for the most part so you really have to put a lot of swing into it. Now a good knife with some weight in the blade and profiled correctly will chop trees very well with less work.

THat's my opinion based on my past experiences, but I am sure opinions will vary.
 
Ankerson said:
I think matchetes aren't really made to be chopping down BIG trees as the blades are too thin and light for the most part so you really have to put a lot of swing into it. Now a good knife with some weight in the blade and profiled correctly will chop trees very well with less work.

THat's my opinion based on my past experiences, but I am sure opinions will vary.
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I never had a problem with big trees and a machete but I have no modded FBM for a reference of comparison.

Next is the log splitting comparison:

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JUST KIDDING!!!!:D:foot:
 
richstag said:
Do they make a machete like you are talking about?
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A BF member called siguy has made a few machetes of S7, blades were heat treated by Paul Bos. They seemed to have impressive performance. Jerry Busse has been able to wring out the best in his steels by virtue of great heat treating processes. So that's why I think a Scrap Yard machete would be killer.
 
Jerry just needs to make a Ghurki with about a 13" blade and 1/4" thick, that would end all the debate. :thumbup::D

I would put that up against an axe any day.
 
A thinner blade will penetrate deeper and the thicker blade will bind quicker on softer wood. Especially if we are talking about clean cuts through > 1.5" diameter branches. The thicker blades will encounter more resistance because the whole width of the blade is required to pass through the medium.

The advantage slowly tips towards the thicker and heavier blades as the material gets harder and the penetration becomes more shallow. The wedging effect in this case tends to help split and shatter the harder wood. The thinner blades will tend to bind more in this case because of the slightly deeper penetration with no wedging effect.

Here is what a thinner FBM will do to soft wood.
 
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