Fbm/machete

A thinner blade will penetrate deeper and the thicker blade will bind quicker on softer wood. Especially if we are talking about clean cuts through > 1.5" diameter branches. The thicker blades will encounter more resistance because the whole width of the blade is required to pass through the medium.

The advantage slowly tips towards the thicker and heavier blades as the material gets harder and the penetration becomes more shallow. The wedging effect in this case tends to help split and shatter the harder wood. The thinner blades will tend to bind more in this case because of the slightly deeper penetration with no wedging effect.

Here is what a thinner FBM will do to soft wood.

Looks pretty good to me:) Thanks.
 
I decided to play around with my Ontario and “try” to shape the handles and put a better edge on the blade. I always just did a quickie before I would go out. I am using a POS harbor freight belt sander with 120 grit belts. I figured I would put it in this thread since the reason I went about it was to see if I was confident enough to convex my FBMLE.

Here is a picture of what I am coming up with:

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All I do is raise a bur and knock it off with a diamond stick followed by a light pass or two with a ceramic stick.


I thought this one was neat…It just slid right into the newspaper:

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Toilet paper is not as clean of a cut:

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Slides right through the entire paper:

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Took it out for a quick chop and then back in for paper towel with the area used to chop:

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So, my question for my fellow Busse enthusiasts… Am I going about this the wrong way? What can I do to improve?

Thanks so much!
 
here is something funny...I sent the old lady to get me some new grip tape...she came home with tennis grip wrap...to my surprise it makes a very functional grip...

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I know...WAY OFF TOPIC:)
 
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