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feather pattern question.

Much love JDM. One thing when drawing out the bar, weld the handle or tang on the end the hot cut started from. Better pattern that way.

Hoss
 
Hoss, Bruce Bump said that runs a welds alongs the corners of the stack when he is splitting the billet to keep CARBON steel layers, which kinda sorta want to stick tother anyway, from delaminating. How in the heck do you prevent that with STAINLESS steel billets? :eek: I'm not trying to butter you up so that you will lend me money or anything, but I have been making carbon damascus for like 6 years, but if I ever have a thought about using stainless, my solution is to go to a website like yours and check the current price list. :D
DevinT said:
Much love JDM. One thing when drawing out the bar, weld the handle or tang on the end the hot cut started from. Better pattern that way.

Hoss
Click to expand...
 
Hey guys, I've done two feathers now, both with a press and by hand with a hot cut, it seems like the temp to split at is really hot, 22-2300 degrees, its not a bad idea to take more than one heat splitting the billet so you don't weld your cutter into it. Ill post some pictures tomorrow as I take my second attempt to forge a mosaic feather pattern billet. There'll be a lot more of that once Im able to pick up the 24 ton Mcnabb press I just bought from Kevin Casey... Id love to get this feather pattern thread started back up since its got some good info on it.
-Will Stelter
 
Well, I worked up a billet today and feathered it, but the W's weren't crushed enough so the pattern isn't as bold as I had hoped, it'll still be a cool mosiac pattern, just not how I had pictured it.
 
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