Feather stick curls????

messer454

messer454

Joined
Oct 2, 2006
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I received several new goodies at about the same time...

Bush Craft book by Mors (and 98.6 deg too)
RAT Cutlery RC-4
Rat Cutlery RC-3 with round pommel

and I already had several Moras.

In trying to make feather sticks with at least one curl like Mors described I found this was EASY AS PIE!!! with the SC-4 and SC-3. However I could not get the "curls" even 50% of the time with the carbon Mora Clipper I was using. It seams like the blade was so thin and so sharp it just dug in and wouldn't curl. Anyone else seen this? Am I doing something wrong?
 
messer454 said:
In trying to make feather sticks with at least one curl like Mors described I found this was EASY AS PIE!!! with the SC-4 and SC-3. However I could not get the "curls" even 50% of the time with the carbon Mora Clipper I was using. It seams like the blade was so thin and so sharp it just dug in and wouldn't curl. Anyone else seen this? Am I doing something wrong?
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First off..... congrats on the new knives, and book. Bush craft is a great read. Ive read, and re-read several times. Never gets old IMO.

As to scandi grinds "bitting" more than you want to chew, it's easy to do. The edge shaped like a chisel will bit more than you want when your not used to carving with them.

I find it best (and I'm not all that good at feather sticks) to lay the edge bevel almost flat on the wood. Tilt at a very slight angle, and make sure it's as close to the hilt (or where the blade meets the handle if no hilt) as possible. Also, try and keep the blade as perpendicular as possible. Like a cross so to speak.
 
I've not read the book, so I don't know if this is stated in it.. Tarmix makes a very good point about where to keep the angle with the scandi, that's probably most important. I think it's also helpful to brace your knife hand or the back of the blade on the front of your knee, and then pull the wood towards you (the wood moves instead of the knife). That can be helpful when you need to keep a constant angle for whatever you're working with.

You better post pics, or the WSS gods will be angered. And you'll have to sacrifice your RC4 to me...
 
I would post some pics but I am rather embarrased of my feather sticks. I read that section of the book again and found that I was doing it wrong. I was trying to whittle with my thumb on the spine and not making the feather nearly long enough. I did it again and again while I was grilling tonight and after dinner as well till my hand hurt. I now know that the RC4 does not appear to "feather" nearly as well as I first posted, meaning I can't get it to make thin feathers that are long. I am still practicing with my Clipper as I can make long feathers but they must be a little too thick. In the illustration in Mors book I am closer to what he calls poor than acceptable.

This is not a critique of RC4 but some thoughts on my ability to "feather."
 
SpookyPistolero said:
I've not read the book, so I don't know if this is stated in it.. Tarmix makes a very good point about where to keep the angle with the scandi, that's probably most important. I think it's also helpful to brace your knife hand or the back of the blade on the front of your knee, and then pull the wood towards you (the wood moves instead of the knife). That can be helpful when you need to keep a constant angle for whatever you're working with.

You better post pics, or the WSS gods will be angered. And you'll have to sacrifice your RC4 to me...
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This is Spooky is talking about. Let the left hand do the carving and control the stick.
IMG_7243.JPG

Some wood is not as fuzz stick friendly as others.
 
That's alright, I've been doing them for years and most often than not the curl hits the dirt! :foot: Pics are always appreciated, no matter what the activity. There's surely a lot more knowledgeable folks around who may even be able to 'diagnose' the problem.
 
messer454 said:
I would post some pics but I am rather embarrased of my feather sticks. I read that section of the book again and found that I was doing it wrong. I was trying to whittle with my thumb on the spine and not making the feather nearly long enough. I did it again and again while I was grilling tonight and after dinner as well till my hand hurt. I now know that the RC4 does not appear to "feather" nearly as well as I first posted, meaning I can't get it to make thin feathers that are long. I am still practicing with my Clipper as I can make long feathers but they must be a little too thick. In the illustration in Mors book I am closer to what he calls poor than acceptable.

This is not a critique of RC4 but some thoughts on my ability to "feather."
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Just as long as you get them thin enough to catch fire easy is all that matters. I find I don't get as much curls with a Mora as I do with an RC. I do get longer thin feathers with the Mora. They catch a flame well. Don't beat yourself over it just do them the best you can and see if they will catch an already lit flame in 1-2 seconds. If they do as Ron hood would say thats close enough.
 
Let the knife glide in the wood. Pull the stick, don't push the knife.

This moment of zen brought to you by...

...and there's nothing wrong with curls coming off - use a pile of them too!
 
bearthedog-that picture is what I was doing in my first post and according to the book those feather's aren't long enough. I can't get them "2/3 the length of the stick" doing it like that. I feel I am getting much better control spooky's way though. I will post some pics tonight after the kids go to bed.

You guys that have read Mors book do you have problems doing them "2/3 the length of the stick"? Especially with knives thicker than Mora?
 
bearthedog said:
Just as long as you get them thin enough to catch fire easy is all that matters. I find I don't get as much curls with a Mora as I do with an RC. I do get longer thin feathers with the Mora. They catch a flame well. Don't beat yourself over it just do them the best you can and see if they will catch an already lit flame in 1-2 seconds. If they do as Ron hood would say thats close enough.
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Thanks, I am probably being too anal about it. Just trying to follow the master's instructions.
 
I hear you. Get a fire going and hold your poor fuzz sticks over them and I bet they are good enough to catch. If not back to practicing with a knife which sounds fun.
If you are around lots of dry pine neddles you don't need to make fuzzys. But they sure are fun. My Mora #2, Leatherface Nessmuk and RC knives all make good fuzz but different a bit all same. I love the Mors and Cody books. Cody has a good comical way of explaining stuff. He was a Mors Kochanski student you know.
 
wether the feathers fall off the stick of stay connected doesn't really matter cause after the fire is going good all that is left is ashes :thumbup: Pat
 
messer454 said:
bearthedog-that picture is what I was doing in my first post and according to the book those feather's aren't long enough. I can't get them "2/3 the length of the stick" doing it like that. I feel I am getting much better control spooky's way though. I will post some pics tonight after the kids go to bed.

You guys that have read Mors book do you have problems doing them "2/3 the length of the stick"? Especially with knives thicker than Mora?
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Mors has been doing this a while, so don't worry if you can't compete with him just yet. Getting long curls for me is hit and miss, even on the same stick with the same knife. Sometimes I can't get a single curl to stay put, and sometimes I can run them the length of the stick. I think it has more to do with relaxing than anything else. One more tip for making your curls curly. Try holding your blade at an angle.
 
Here is the bottom line on fuzz sticks...

If it lights on fire it was fuzzy enough.

If it won't light on fire you need to make it fuzzier.

Fuzzies that fall off, burn when you get them really hot.

It doesn't have to be a work of art, it has to light on fire. Mac
 
Here are some pics as requested, no I am not especially proud of them when judged by Mors standards. The first few are with a thumb on the spine. The last Mora pic is the full handed attempt to get a long feather. The RCs and even my Endura BRG ZDP seem to feather a little better for me with the thumb on the spine. I can't make them work very well Bors way though.
 
You're biting into the wood too much. This isn't a very good example, but I took this pic a couple of hours ago for another thread, and it's the only one I have handy.

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This was done with a Ka-Bar, which any of those knives will outperform at fuzzsticks. The trick is to not try. I know that sounds weird, but don't put too much effort into it. Just kind of run the stick along the blade, rotating it back and forth a bit every every stroke or two. No real force or effort should be involved.
 
fuzz stick? sounds like another name for..........nevermind......lol. WHERE do you people come up wit these terms?!?!?! Don't EVEN get me started on bushcraft.....sounds like a topic for a thread in the Cove:eek::D
 
jdm61 said:
.sounds like a topic for a thread in the ----:eek::D
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The what? jdm is drunk and has no idea what he's talking about. Move along people, nothing to see here.
 
Its odd reading this thread, because I have never used a knife to help prepare a fire before. Blasphemy, I know.:p
I always used matches (I have yet to get a firesteel) and either twine or the occasional bit of natural tinder. I found fuzz sticks kill the edge on most of my knives, especially as they are mostly poor quality folders. I suppose you could say I adapted my skills to meet my equipment halfway, which is what this is all about, ain't it?:D
 
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