Feedback on Pros and Cons of Sharpening Systems

Thanks for all the responses guys!! I really appreciate the input! Guess I really can't "leggo of that eggo" cause I'm waffling now and leaning towards the WE120.

kane22 said:
I used a round piece of cork with a hole drilled in the middle of it. I can slide them where ever I want them. Works fine and cost me nothing.
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Excellent idea!!
K kane22 What do you find is the max blade length you can sharpen effectively in your KME? 8", 10"?

000Robert said:
The number one factor for me was that the system does not require electricity to use, except for lighting of course. I also wanted the blade clamped in the vertical position. I didn't like the thought of clamping the blade horizontally and needing to flip it to profile/sharpen the other side.
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I couldn't agree more.
000Robert 000Robert Same question for you. Website says 15" blades can be sharpened. What do you find is your max effective blade length in the WE130?

000Robert said:
Yes, the clamp is easier and quicker on the clamping systems but clamping a blade in the WE60 is not very difficult especially if you are worried about the cost. If cost was a major concern for me the WE60 would be my choice. I researched every system that I could find info on for a few days before I settled on the WE130. If I were researching a sharpening system today, I just might buy the WE60 and spend the money that I saved on a nice knife.
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True. However, WE60 isn't compatible with many of the other WE accessories. I feel like for $50 more, the WE100 might be a better "base model". But the jaws just look kind of short in the reviews and pics I've seen. Since it's a long term "investment", I'd probably settle on the WE120 with a bit taller jaws.

tokerblue said:
I have the WE130 and it's by far my favorite sharpening system I've used over the years (Lansky, Gatco, Worksharp KO, etc.)
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Very helpful! Thank you!

Blade Lab said:
One issue with KME is that there's significant play in the seating of the sharpener in the KME base,
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Agreed. That is a big reason I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It just bothers me and I've seen that mentioned in other reviews too. KME needs to develop a better mounting system.
Adam Savage from MythBusters upgraded the handle on his KME with a piece of custom milled teflon to achieve a more solid connection. Here's a link to the video. He has an AWESOME machine shop!!
 
ThomT said:
Thanks for all the responses guys!! I really appreciate the input! Guess I really can't "leggo of that eggo" cause I'm waffling now and leaning towards the WE120.
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ThomT said:
I couldn't agree more.
000Robert 000Robert Same question for you. Website says 15" blades can be sharpened. What do you find is your max effective blade length in the WE130?
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Not sure - I don't have a blade that long.

ThomT said:
True. However, WE60 isn't compatible with many of the other WE accessories. I feel like for $50 more, the WE100 might be a better "base model". But the jaws just look kind of short in the reviews and pics I've seen. Since it's a long term "investment", I'd probably settle on the WE120 with a bit taller jaws.
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Which accessories are you concerned about? I have no experience with the WE100 and WE120, but the vise jaws on the WE60 are excellent for tiny slip-joint blades and full flat ground blades. I am really impressed with the vise jaws on the WE60.

If I were buying a Wicked Edge sharpener today and had the money, I would buy the WE130 and the WE60 at the same time. If I were still hunting and camping, I would opt for the WE66 and the WE60. It probably won't be long before they offer some nice cases for the new sharpeners.
 
ThomT said:
Agreed. That is a big reason I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It just bothers me and I've seen that mentioned in other reviews too. KME needs to develop a better mounting system.
Adam Savage from MythBusters upgraded the handle on his KME with a piece of custom milled teflon to achieve a more solid connection. Here's a link to the video. He has an AWESOME machine shop!!
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That is a link to this thread, not to a video.
 
ThomT said:
Thanks for all the responses guys!! I really appreciate the input! Guess I really can't "leggo of that eggo" cause I'm waffling now and leaning towards the WE120.


Excellent idea!!
K kane22 What do you find is the max blade length you can sharpen effectively in your KME? 8", 10"?


I couldn't agree more.
000Robert 000Robert Same question for you. Website says 15" blades can be sharpened. What do you find is your max effective blade length in the WE130?


True. However, WE60 isn't compatible with many of the other WE accessories. I feel like for $50 more, the WE100 might be a better "base model". But the jaws just look kind of short in the reviews and pics I've seen. Since it's a long term "investment", I'd probably settle on the WE120 with a bit taller jaws.


Very helpful! Thank you!


Agreed. That is a big reason I haven't pulled the trigger yet. It just bothers me and I've seen that mentioned in other reviews too. KME needs to develop a better mounting system.
Adam Savage from MythBusters upgraded the handle on his KME with a piece of custom milled teflon to achieve a more solid connection. Here's a link to the video. He has an AWESOME machine shop!!
Click to expand...
At the sound of repeating myself, just want to save you money and angst, have a good look at how much the after market accessories will cost you or if you can get a system that will suit your needs as is out of the box. Also just to answer another question you asked, and this is only in my experience okay, for larger kitchen knives, you mentioned a 15 inch blade, the Edge Pro system is the easiest and most user friendly for these larger kitchen knives. IMOO. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
UncleBoots said:
That is a link to this thread, not to a video.
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My bad. Here's the right link.
000Robert said:
Which accessories are you concerned about? I have no experience with the WE100 and WE120, but the vise jaws on the WE60 are excellent for tiny slip-joint blades and full flat ground blades. I am really impressed with the vise jaws on the WE60.

If I were buying a Wicked Edge sharpener today and had the money, I would buy the WE130 and the WE60 at the same time. If I were still hunting and camping, I would opt for the WE66 and the WE60. It probably won't be long before they offer some nice cases for the new sharpeners.
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In all practicality, probably just the scissors adapter. That's good advice about the WE60.
 
cudgee said:
At the sound of repeating myself, just want to save you money and angst, have a good look at how much the after market accessories will cost you or if you can get a system that will suit your needs as is out of the box.
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I've been trying to do exactly that and also think about future possibilities.
 
ThomT said:
Trigger has been pulled. I chose the WE Pro 1.
Thank you everyone for all your input and trying to help and OCD NOOB get through the decision process and start on the sharpening path!
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Congratulations, and enjoy your new system! Let me warn you, though, the Sharpening Rabbit Hole is very, very deep.
 
ThomT said:
Trigger has been pulled. I chose the WE Pro 1.
Thank you everyone for all your input and trying to help and OCD NOOB get through the decision process and start on the sharpening path!
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You're going to really like it. Just some pointers.

1. Start with a few beater blades. Use a sharpie and mark the edge. Lightly scrub the blade to see if you have the correct clamping position and height. If you don't position the blade correctly, you'll get an uneven bevel. It may take a few dozen blades to break in your stones.
2. Buy a digital angle cube. The angles on the WE are relative. When you clamp the blade, you may need to use a different left and right angle depending on the width and height of the blade.
3. I use a Google spreadsheet to record the height, horizontal position and left/right angles used for each knife. It will save you a lot of time in subsequent sharpenings.
 
ThomT said:
My bad. Here's the right link.

In all practicality, probably just the scissors adapter. That's good advice about the WE60.
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The scissor attachment will fit the WE60. You just have to center it in the vise since the WE60 jaws are 1" wide, and the WE66 and WE130 jaws are 1.5" wide. You didn't read my article on the WE60, did you?
 
ThomT said:
Trigger has been pulled. I chose the WE Pro 1.
Thank you everyone for all your input and trying to help and OCD NOOB get through the decision process and start on the sharpening path!
Click to expand...

Congratulations on your new sharpener. Don't forget all the helps in the WE forum and the "Knowledge Base".
 
I did not read the thread. For non serrated edge, it's quite easy to sharpen. I tried Work Sharp and Lansky. Lansky works better. Work Sharp worked better in EVERY sense BUT it does not extend far enough to sharpen a Chinese cleaver because you cannot pull the stone out far enough. Chinese cleaver has very wide blade. Only Lansky can do it, so I return the Work Sharp.

Even the Lansky, only the finest diamond is useful, no use for the two coarse ones. Lansky is useful in the sense of REDO the edge to a fixed angle. But even the finest stone won't even close to get you the sharp edge. After forming the angle, I have to use my very fine diamond rod to polish it, then the last step still going back to the finest ceramic traditional stone to polish the edge for the final touch.

After the initial forming the edge in a good angle, I would not use the Lansky again until the edge is destroy and need to redo again. It's only good for initial forming the edge. So I won't sweat too much on the sharpening system.

I complete grinding the new edge, polish, final touch a knife in less than 15mins, and they can shread paper strips like nothing.
 
alan0354 said:
I did not read the thread. For non serrated edge, it's quite easy to sharpen. I tried Work Sharp and Lansky. Lansky works better. Work Sharp worked better in EVERY sense BUT it does not extend far enough to sharpen a Chinese cleaver because you cannot pull the stone out far enough.
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The Worksharp burns edges. I wouldn't use it on any decent quality knife.
 
tokerblue said:
The Worksharp burns edges. I wouldn't use it on any decent quality knife.
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That's not necessarily the case. You can certainly sharpen a knife on the WS without burning the edge. You just have to know what you're doing. Use the low speed setting, move the blade at a reasonable rate, and let it cool between passes (or dip in water), etc. I basically use my Ken Onion Elite as a power stropping machine with leather belts, which generate very little heat.
 
Funny that the "more expensive" the knife, the easier to ruin. Those hand grind sharpening kit doesn't generate heat, you use grind it slowly.

My CHEAP knives can cut paper strips like air, what else do you want?
 
Blade Lab said:
Oh yeah, that won't burn edges unless you're The Flash. 😂
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It and Lansky both work well for the purpose, it's just the first step of forming the edge, then has to go back to tradition ceramic stone and s-l-o-w-l-y and lightly refine the edge. Just patience. Nothing fancy.
 
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