Fehrman Peacemaker

Gress, very nice knife and review. I was looking at Fehrman a couple of weeks ago but got a Busse instead. I'd heard that Fehrman grips are a bit on the small side, but it doesn't seem so in your model.

What I'm interested in is the process you used to get the scratches off the blade and come up with such a nice and even finish. :thumbup:
 
I tried to use my BATAC LE for all kinds of tasks too, but it was too fat/thick for kitchen duties, too heavy for EDC/survival use, too ugly to display as a safe queen and I don't like the handle - it is just not comfortable. Why not selling it? I find INFI more than irresitible:D.

But when comparing the BATAC LE to Fehrman LC. LC has my vote. I find the CPM 3V a bit better in edge retention and the handle is great with great balance on the knife too. Then again, BATAC LE is one of my 'lesser' Busses.

Yes, you are to the point with INFI! :)
I would not call BATAC ugly though, and it is doung great job guarding my safe from the inside. :D When I need a bigger and stronger knife for yard work or camping I usually end up using SAR4.
Fehrman PM will take the place of main go to knife for around the camp and kitchen work. I feel it is the best knife I have for this type of chore.
 
cziv,
Fehrman grips are indeed on smaller side, but to me they are the most comfortable among all the knives I have. The geometry is perfect and the size proportions between the blade and handles is right.

Now to your question. To buff the small scratches out I usually use the dremel with polishing head(s). It is very easy and fast process if you are careful with the even pressure and cosistent speed over the surface of the blade.
 
great pics and review thanks! I have a shadow scout coming, it's the 6" blade version, very excited about it!
 
One more picture of my Peacemaker on a rainy day :)
216864924ecc02e22436ad75932c5385.jpg
 
To buff the small scratches out I usually use the dremel with polishing head(s). It is very easy and fast process if you are careful with the even pressure and cosistent speed over the surface of the blade
.

Beautiful shot Gress.

Back to your buffing job. I have a nice little dremmel kit it has a couple of what appears to be felt buffing thingamajiggers, that one would try to use for buffing. I can't even figure out how they would be solidly affixed to the tool.

Is there a special kind of buffing bit that one could buy from the hardware store or something that you used for this? Any info appreciated - I hate scratches! :grumpy:
 
What I use is Dremel's cleaning/polishing kit it has about 20 pieces or so and majority are useful. It also comes with polishing compound which I found quite good. The little felt circles you supposed to bolt to special Dremel's shaft, but the kit also has couple of heads which I like better for knives.

On bigger scale you sure can buy special belt grinding/polishing equipment, but for my little projects the dremel is good enough.
 
Thanks, I didn't know they made cleaning/polishing kit. I need to get one. :thumbup:
 
Wow, bearcut, thanks! Great review. This is exactly what I was looking for. It is interesting read and if you still have those two blades, I'd appreciate a pic for the size comparison. :) Are the handles on LC bigger and the grip is fuller comparing to BATAC?
From my little line of Busse knives I like the grip of SAR4 the best with the second close being ASH-1 and then BATAC and AD. So I am wondering how LC would compare. Not sure (by watching the youtube vid on the Fehrman LC) if I will like the extra choil on the handles. Anyway, thank you for referring me to your thread!

I no longer have the Busse or the Strider. I kept the LC, so, no pictures.
Yes, the LC has a larger handle than the BATCLE did.
I like the Fehrman handles just fine. The extra “choil” on the handle assists in snap cuts. The handles don’t give you pinkie finger either. I found that the Fehrman handles provide better varied handholds than many other styles.
I like the Busse SAR design. The only thing I don’t like about it is the choil. The cutout is extremely small. It is basically useless. Otherwise, the handle is a good design.
Whenever you use a certain type of handle, on any tool, for a long time, your muscle memory adapts and you become comfortable with that handle style. I think that is why many people don’t like anything but their usual brand.
 
bearcut,
Your thread was interesting read as I said, but as I read it in its entirety I should say it is interesting in many respects :D
Thanks for doing the comparo and for objective stance.
As for SAR-4 I agree with you completely. The knife is very well done with convex grind and very good geometry, but the small cutout is pretty much useless and I'd like to see it either [almost] non-existent (just for looks) or otherwise preferrably a good sized one to make it useful. Nevertheless, my SAR-4 is a user, while BATAC and ASH-1 are safe queens at the moment.
Fehrman Peacemaker is the most comfortable knife I ever had. It became my fav for around the house and I am sure will serve in this same role arpound the camp when time comes...And I am really warming up towards LC :)
 
Thanks, I didn't know they made cleaning/polishing kit. I need to get one. :thumbup:

I always find dremel one of the most useful tools for small works. Perhaps even overuse it. I remember Strider's company position though "no dremels or no warranty" :D
 
What I use is Dremel's cleaning/polishing kit it has about 20 pieces or so and majority are useful. It also comes with polishing compound which I found quite good. The little felt circles you supposed to bolt to special Dremel's shaft, but the kit also has couple of heads which I like better for knives.

On bigger scale you sure can buy special belt grinding/polishing equipment, but for my little projects the dremel is good enough.

Or just grab some Scotch-Brite polishing pads - that's what I use when I want to remove scratches from a satin finished blade and bring a good, fine finish back.

Color coded for grit - should be able to pick 'em up at an auto store.

pads.jpg
 
Do you use them with polishing compound?

Nope. Dry. After the last pad, I rinse the blade under water, dry it with a cotton cloth, and polish it with metal polishing paste and cotton cloth.

Using those pads gives you cleaner/straighter lines (the grey one is so fine it'll almost give you a mirror polish). I've tried it before, so I know what kind of a pain it is to use those little dremel heads on a 7" blade. :D I use the dremel in tight places like hilts, pommels, and nuts... but, scotch-brite pads for the blade itself.
 
Using those pads gives you cleaner/straighter lines (the grey one is so fine it'll almost give you a mirror polish).

One more question on your process please?

Do you alternate directions during the rubbing? During each pad, from pad to pad, or doesn't the direction of rubbing/polishing make any difference at all?

Are these things purchased in sets, are they widely available?

I haver two scratched blades dying to be rubbed out to a nice finish. :)
 
Nope. Dry. After the last pad, I rinse the blade under water, dry it with a cotton cloth, and polish it with metal polishing paste and cotton cloth.

Using those pads gives you cleaner/straighter lines (the grey one is so fine it'll almost give you a mirror polish). I've tried it before, so I know what kind of a pain it is to use those little dremel heads on a 7" blade. :D I use the dremel in tight places like hilts, pommels, and nuts... but, scotch-brite pads for the blade itself.

I know what you are talking about. I wouldnt use dremel on 7" blade myself, but this little peacemaker job was an easy job :)
 
Sufler,

I searched all over h*ll's half acre trying to buy a set of those pads and can't find them anywhere online. I can find one kind - usually coarse, discs at $129, but no packs of variable grit pads like you're referring to.

Any help would be appreciated please. I have 2 blades that need attention badly. I think these would be the ticket for rubbing them out.
 
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