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PimpinSquee said:
looks like its settled. McDonald it will be. now i wonder how much an evers stamp would cost if its that big.
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Well I use 'Caswell' and McDonald is only one letter more. I have an Evers stamp. It's nice, but I never use it. I always use one from a different outfit. It cost $80 or $90 and has stamped hundreds of knives so far.

I agree with Bruce 100%. I wouldn't associate 'McDonald' with McDonald's--especially if it's stamped on a knife. "Squee" would be cool for a particular style you develop or something, but it'll be a good step to attach your identity to something other than a high school nickname. :thumbup:
 
now where did you find the one that was less than $100? link me to their site or send me the contact info please.
 
PimpinSquee said:
looks like its settled. McDonald it will be. now i wonder how much an evers stamp would cost if its that big.
Click to expand...

Hey go to my site and you can get the stamp there. Go to my knife supplies page and you will see how to get one. When I got mine it was about 140.00 and still working today. A life Time if you use it right. Hope this was of help. and when you are there please sign my guest book. God bless and have a great day.

Barkes
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
:thumbup:
 
Well I got a bunch of stamps made for $80-$90 each from Harper's in Las Vegas, but that was some years ago, now that I think about it. (They do last a long time, you know.) I checked on their site now and they're all over $100.

I have to think if you Google it really hard you could turn up a low-ball price. Most folks give up after the first page.
 
OK, it's looking like $100 is about the minimum for a good stamp. I'm OK with this; a Franklin is not too much to spend on a tool if you only have to buy it once. Thanks, as always, for the insights, gentlemen.
 
that will come later. i planned on having my name on one side and my city and state on the other. i was also thinking that instead of buying a stamp i could etch it in. my uncle tossed me a variable amp/volt transformer yesterday. just need wire and clips and make up some salt water solution and then order some vinyl stencils. does etching have any real, long term effects to the blade?
 
OK interesting point about contact info... I've been kind of thinking, a standard-type tang stamp on one side, my last name and state/USA... and on the other side, the steel type and date it was finished... does that make sense?

I don't want to clutter up a ricasso with too much info but I thought that might be cool. Also, no offense to the many fine makers who use them, but I think etched marks are ugly and cheap-looking. I want that deep 3D effect of a stamp. Just my personal taste.
 
GibsonFan said:
...... Also, no offense to the many fine makers who use them, but I think etched marks are ugly and cheap-looking. I want that deep 3D effect of a stamp. Just my personal taste.
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With a good etching unit I can burn as deep as a stamp.

I used to serial number my knives with little fineline 1/16" tall etched letters. I could put a stickpin in 'em and it was deep enough to hold the pin up. That's not too shabby.

Just because there's a lot of half-assed looking etches, don't blame the technique. Blame the technician or inadequate tools. I see plenty of stamped names where a couple letters are half ground off. Does that mean that stamping sucks, too?
 
No, it doesn't necessarily mean the stamp is worn out at all. It means it wasn't done even. Or it means that more was ground off one side of the ricasso than the other.

If a stamp isn't impressed with enough force, then it is sorta shallow, too, isn't it? Technique is everything.
 
darn you for always being right. lol. :D:D:D how often do you see a makers mark look like a ranch logo? like the kinda logo you would brand a cow with.
 
PimpinSquee said:
darn you for always being right. lol. :D:D:D how often do you see a makers mark look like a ranch logo? like the kinda logo you would brand a cow with.
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Both my Evers stamp and my etching unit are older than you are, Jacob. :D I've just happened to have learned a little about them in that time. :)

There are all sorts of different marks, both stamped and etched. Some look a lot like brands. Jim Crowell's star comes to mind. His is hot-stamped, I think (may well be wrong). Some actually are brands. My friend Mike Garner uses the logo (and name) of Diamond G, his family's ranch brand. His is etched.

Both techniques are good. Both can be screwed up. Either can be uglier than hair growing out of a wart on the side of a girl's nose. ;)
 
fitzo said:
Both techniques are good. Both can be screwed up. Either can be uglier than hair growing out of a wart on the side of a girl's nose. ;)
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sounds like an ex gf i had. :barf: :barf: :barf: im sure you know the feeling too. does the voltage you use for an etch vary from each type of steel? whats a good voltage and amperage to use?
 
PimpinSquee said:
sounds like an ex gf i had. :barf: :barf: :barf: im sure you know the feeling too. does the voltage you use for an etch vary from each type of steel? whats a good voltage and amperage to use?
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Actually, no, I never dated a girl with a nose wart, though I did date one with...well, nevermind. :D You get carried away with these things too easy. :)

I have this Marking Methods unit in this kit:
http://www.markingmethods.com/mark300a.php4
When it came time to choose, all I knew about were this unit and this handheld gizmo whose appearance reminded me of an electric razor. I opted for the high priced spread and have never been sorry. I can burn my logo deep enough that I could file someone's knuckle off with it if they'd hold there finger still long enough. :D

I don't remember the voltage/amp settings of it's 5 "levels" of juice. It offers quite a range, and can burn a stencil easily. It "sizzles". I don't remember the specs, though if I remember this thread tomorrow I will see what the manual says. :)

There are various electrolytes optimized for different steels and other metals. Proper choice of electrolyte is as important as the voltage setting. Likewise, stencil quality varies. Some manufacturers work better than others.

Getting the etching down has a little bit of a learning curve. There are tutorials, and indeed a DVD by a gent named Bob Warner that details building a unit. Google Center Cross Instructional and find a bunch of training DVDs for knifemaking tasks.

Hope that helps.
 
ok 2 things. first off im really curious as to what that one you dated had that was bad. second, im just going to use the method of transformer, wires, clips, saline solution, and qtips. that with a vinyl stencil. its inexpensive and works and will get me by. i just need to know whats a good voltage/amperage to use for the etching. i know your getting old but your not that old to forget about this thread.
 
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