- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 19,687
Hey knifelovers, welcome aboard. This thread will become a stickey where I will keep a running showcase of my line of knives. I will be adding more and more pics to it, and would love all your comments, and suggestions too!
I make currently make 7 models. I've submitted the drawings to Great Lakes Waterjet, and I usually have him deliver me 20 or so blanks to add to the 10 or so I might profile myself. I try to heat treat batches of 30 or so blades, then finish them up in batches of 4 or six at a time. I only use 01 steel for my knives, and my grinds are convex. Most of the time I like using a corby bolt for the front pin. The lanyard tube I've been making up sometimes is metal, then g-10 or mikarta, then metal.
I'm moving away from making my own sheaths. I will offer them as an expensive option, but they're a money loosing proposition for me. I've now sent all 6 of my models off to JRE so they can make patterns for them. JRE makes a solid sheath, and its WAY more cost effective for me to buy them because it takes me almost as long to make a sheath as it does to make a knife. I will make one if someone insists and is willing to compensate me for the effort.
So here is the lineup:
I make two Nessmuks. THe smaller one has a 3/32" thick blade that is 4.5 with a 4.5" handle. I leave for ge scale on this knife because I think its appropoe to the design. The larger blade is mainly wider and curvier the blade is 1/8" thick and its roughly 10" long.
Small:
Large:
I now make only one Bushcrafter. Its got a 4" blade, and a 4.5" handle. I think this is the ideal compromise from the two previous designs. Here are two pics. This one is maroon micarta over Black G-10.
My EDC model is intended to be a daily use belt knife. Its got a ~7" OAL with maybe 3.25" being blade. The steel is 1/8" thick. The uses for this knife range from kitchen duty to boxes, or rope, or any daily task.
I decided I needed to make a neck knife, and drew up this one I call the Bow Legged Joe on a whim at my desk at work. I thought it looked silly, but after making one I was really impressed, so here it is. Its main function is a work safe knife to open boxes or trim paper, etc. It is 1/8" thick.
The Ladyfinger is my bird and trout knife. Its got a 4.5" blade and a 4.75" handle. This one is done in Baltic Birch and Paduk.
The Hunter is a wide bladed knife. Its 9.5 OAL with a 5" handle. This one is curly Koa over Blackwood.
This final knife is my Woodsman. Its 10.5" long. 5" handle. This one is 3/16 thick, and its the thickest blade I've ever done. They're going to be 5/32" thick usually, but I may ocasionally do a few in the thicker steel. The front pin is a SS corby bolt. The handle is Goncalo Alves (maybe my favorite wood) and Osage with a red liner. This is my favorite knife I make. I made this one for me so I can do some testing. I even spent a bit of time hand rubbing the blade.
You guys are welcome to browse my web hosting site at:
http://public.fotki.com/FiddlebackForge/
Warranty- I back my knives with a satisfaction guarantee. When you get the knife it should make you happy. If it doesn't, return it. I'll refund your purchase price, plus shipping (domestic) back home to me when I receive the knife in unused condition. I guarantee my work to be free from mechanical defects under normal usage as long as I remain able to make knives. Natural handle materials such as stag, bone, wood, pearl and ivory may shrink, crack, and/or discolor with change in temperature, or humidity or age. As this is normal, expected, and can normally be avoided with maintenance these issues would not be covered under this warranty.
Andy Roy
249 Brookcliff Drive
Sugar Hill, GA 30518
404 519 2787
e-mails:
fiddlebackforge at att dot net
paypal payments:
fiddlebackpayments at att dot net
I make currently make 7 models. I've submitted the drawings to Great Lakes Waterjet, and I usually have him deliver me 20 or so blanks to add to the 10 or so I might profile myself. I try to heat treat batches of 30 or so blades, then finish them up in batches of 4 or six at a time. I only use 01 steel for my knives, and my grinds are convex. Most of the time I like using a corby bolt for the front pin. The lanyard tube I've been making up sometimes is metal, then g-10 or mikarta, then metal.
I'm moving away from making my own sheaths. I will offer them as an expensive option, but they're a money loosing proposition for me. I've now sent all 6 of my models off to JRE so they can make patterns for them. JRE makes a solid sheath, and its WAY more cost effective for me to buy them because it takes me almost as long to make a sheath as it does to make a knife. I will make one if someone insists and is willing to compensate me for the effort.
So here is the lineup:
I make two Nessmuks. THe smaller one has a 3/32" thick blade that is 4.5 with a 4.5" handle. I leave for ge scale on this knife because I think its appropoe to the design. The larger blade is mainly wider and curvier the blade is 1/8" thick and its roughly 10" long.
Small:
Large:
I now make only one Bushcrafter. Its got a 4" blade, and a 4.5" handle. I think this is the ideal compromise from the two previous designs. Here are two pics. This one is maroon micarta over Black G-10.
My EDC model is intended to be a daily use belt knife. Its got a ~7" OAL with maybe 3.25" being blade. The steel is 1/8" thick. The uses for this knife range from kitchen duty to boxes, or rope, or any daily task.
I decided I needed to make a neck knife, and drew up this one I call the Bow Legged Joe on a whim at my desk at work. I thought it looked silly, but after making one I was really impressed, so here it is. Its main function is a work safe knife to open boxes or trim paper, etc. It is 1/8" thick.
The Ladyfinger is my bird and trout knife. Its got a 4.5" blade and a 4.75" handle. This one is done in Baltic Birch and Paduk.
The Hunter is a wide bladed knife. Its 9.5 OAL with a 5" handle. This one is curly Koa over Blackwood.
This final knife is my Woodsman. Its 10.5" long. 5" handle. This one is 3/16 thick, and its the thickest blade I've ever done. They're going to be 5/32" thick usually, but I may ocasionally do a few in the thicker steel. The front pin is a SS corby bolt. The handle is Goncalo Alves (maybe my favorite wood) and Osage with a red liner. This is my favorite knife I make. I made this one for me so I can do some testing. I even spent a bit of time hand rubbing the blade.
You guys are welcome to browse my web hosting site at:
http://public.fotki.com/FiddlebackForge/
Warranty- I back my knives with a satisfaction guarantee. When you get the knife it should make you happy. If it doesn't, return it. I'll refund your purchase price, plus shipping (domestic) back home to me when I receive the knife in unused condition. I guarantee my work to be free from mechanical defects under normal usage as long as I remain able to make knives. Natural handle materials such as stag, bone, wood, pearl and ivory may shrink, crack, and/or discolor with change in temperature, or humidity or age. As this is normal, expected, and can normally be avoided with maintenance these issues would not be covered under this warranty.
Andy Roy
249 Brookcliff Drive
Sugar Hill, GA 30518
404 519 2787
e-mails:
fiddlebackforge at att dot net
paypal payments:
fiddlebackpayments at att dot net
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But, is there anyway I can put my name on one of those bad boys?
