Field Sharpeners

HighDesertWalker

HighDesertWalker

Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
1,357
During the past year I've gotten into SUL (super ultra light) backpacking because it greatly expands the number of destinations that are accessible to me. Consequently, weight is a primary consideration on any gear I select.

I generally carry one of the lighter scandis in the field and have been looking for the best sharpening system to take along. Here are a couple of pretty good options:

sharpenersfieldzs4.jpg


Both are two sided (fine & medium grit) diamond sharpeners that weight exactly one ounce (according to my postal scales). On the left is a 1/16 in plate I obtained from Ragnar's. It is 4 in by 1 1/4 in. The only problem with this plate is that when you grip it you expose the tips of your fingers to the knife blade you are sharpening. It would be a very bad thing to slice off a fingertip or two during a survival emergency.

So, on the right is an alternative. This is actually a combination of two diamond sharpeners from DMT that have been super glued together. They are 1 in wide and 2 5/8 in long, and have a combined thickness of 5/16 in. Though the sharpening area is considerably smaller than on the diamond plate, I feel more comfortable using this combo-sharpener because I can keep all my fingertips below the working surface of the tool.

Both options work, but every outdoorsman will have his own preference.
 
Hey HighDesertWalker
I dont know if this will work for you but through trial and error the method i found that gives the best results with the least amount of blood loss with the small pocket stones is to use them like an axe sharpining puck, hold the knife in one hand edge up and the stone in the other hand at the proper angle and use a circular motion with the stone down the length of the blade do both sides until desired edge is achieved.
 
If you are using a carbon steel knife, then you can use a smooth rock in a pinch:D
 
MIKE MACINTOSH said:
Hey HighDesertWalker
I dont know if this will work for you but through trial and error the method i found that gives the best results with the least amount of blood loss with the small pocket stones is to use them like an axe sharpining puck, hold the knife in one hand edge up and the stone in the other hand at the proper angle and use a circular motion with the stone down the length of the blade do both sides until desired edge is achieved.
Click to expand...

That would certainly give you more control. I'll give it a try. I use a sharpening puck on my GBs so I know what you mean.
 
Hey HighDesertWalker
I dont know if this will work for you but through trial and error the method i found that gives the best results with the least amount of blood loss with the small pocket stones is to use them like an axe sharpining puck, hold the knife in one hand edge up and the stone in the other hand at the proper angle and use a circular motion with the stone down the length of the blade do both sides until desired edge is achieved.
Sorry about the double post dont no how I t happened
 
Who makes that little diamond rod sharpener that looks like an ink pen when inside its cover? Weighs virtually nil. Sharpens fish hooks as well.
 
HDWalker,
Is it the 510 you take with you? I think I remember on your GCanyon gear list. When I took my Mora 2000 to Peru I didn't want to take alot of sharpening gear so I took a piece of sandpaper I think it was 600 or 800 and just used my closed cell foam pad as the backing. You could use the padded strap of a backpack or carfully use your leg. I always strop my Moras and hardly ever use a stone. Trust me this as light as you can go as far as sharpening a Mora.
 
Thomas Linton said:
Who makes that little diamond rod sharpener that looks like an ink pen when inside its cover? Weighs virtually nil. Sharpens fish hooks as well.
Click to expand...

There are several brands available. DMT makes a rod with handles that open like a butterfly knife. I have trouble working with a rod unless it's a fairly long one, say 6 in on up. I use 10 to 12 in rods to touch up my machetes, goloks, parangs and brush hooks.
 
bearthedog said:
HDWalker,
Is it the 510 you take with you? I think I remember on your GCanyon gear list. When I took my Mora 2000 to Peru I didn't want to take alot of sharpening gear so I took a piece of sandpaper I think it was 600 or 800 and just used my closed cell foam pad as the backing. You could use the padded strap of a backpack or carfully use your leg. I always strop my Moras and hardly ever use a stone. Trust me this as light as you can go as far as sharpening a Mora.
Click to expand...

I have to admit I've never tried sandpaper, but you certainly could not get any lighter. Yes, I took the 510 to the Grand Canyon, but I'm also intrigued by a number of other scandis. I've got more than any rational person could justify. In the modern category, I especially like the 780 Triflex Craftsman. When it comes to traditional designs, it's hard to beat the rugged Finnish blades by Ahti. Kellam markets a wide variety of Ahti blades under their name, but they also jack the price way up. Ragnar's prices are better, but he can't get some of the models that Kellam sells. Here's a site for a Finnish pukko that approaches perfection in my book:

http://www.kellamknives.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_33_36_42&products_id=6
 
bearthedog said:
When I took my Mora 2000 to Peru I didn't want to take alot of sharpening gear so I took a piece of sandpaper I think it was 600 or 800 and just used my closed cell foam pad as the backing.
Click to expand...

Does this convex the edge? It sure seems like it would.
 
Ragnar plate is nice its the only sharping stone i have! Works for me carry it lots of places, never know when theres a rouge knife out there that needs help
 
HighDesertWalker said:
So, on the right is an alternative. This is actually a combination of two diamond sharpeners from DMT that have been super glued together. They are 1 in wide and 2 5/8 in long, and have a combined thickness of 5/16 in. Though the sharpening area is considerably smaller than on the diamond plate, I feel more comfortable using this combo-sharpener because I can keep all my fingertips below the working surface of the tool.
Click to expand...

that's really cool - so simple and smart :thumbup:
 
Regular stropping on my levis. Any nicks or dings, if they happen, can be dealt with by using locally available stones.

I mean, heck, what do you think the vikings used with their precious Moras! :rolleyes:
 
I keep two things, a piece of 320 grit sandpaper and a ceramic rod. The rod works really well at touch ups, and the sandpaper can really put an edge back on. Both weigh nothing.

Interestingly, I can't maintain a convex edge worth a darn, but I can sharpen up a scandi no problem with sandpaper. Weird!
 
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