Finally my turn for a WIP!

You can get an adapter hose at pretty much anyplace that sells camping equipment, I got mine at Zellers of all places. You can also buy a brass fitting that you can use to fill small disposable bottles from a 20 pound tank. Note, this may be illegal and I have never done this. Note #2, you need to be careful refilling small tanks when you tip it upside down do it slowly and don't turn it fully upside down because there is grindings/filings and welding slag in the 20lb bottle that will transfer to your small bottle and can and will plug up small orifices if you turn the refilled bottle upside down while in use. I don't know why I know that, it just came to me in a vision.
 
69_knives said:
You can get an adapter hose at pretty much anyplace that sells camping equipment, I got mine at Zellers of all places. You can also buy a brass fitting that you can use to fill small disposable bottles from a 20 pound tank. Note, this may be illegal and I have never done this. Note #2, you need to be careful refilling small tanks when you tip it upside down do it slowly and don't turn it fully upside down because there is grindings/filings and welding slag in the 20lb bottle that will transfer to your small bottle and can and will plug up small orifices if you turn the refilled bottle upside down while in use. I don't know why I know that, it just came to me in a vision.
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Filling a disposable tank from a 20 lb'er is a bad idea. Even if you were to fill tank to tank, there would be no filings involved. The tank to tank connection is a hose, no way for filings to transfer from one tank to another. The danger of filling from tank to tank is overfilling the one you are trying to refill. If you fill it over capacity (there is supposed to be air space at the top of the cylinder when full) there is a danger of the tank over pressurizing due to expansion.


Nice forge you built Patrice! That should do you until you decide to make a bigger one. Bigger isn't always better tho. Even that nice little 2 brick you made with a real burner could last for a long time unless you are wanting to make swords. Real burners are easy to make from pipe fittings. Do a little research and im sure youll whip one up in no time.


Brad
www.andersonknives.ca
 
No John I've never seen purpleheart, I'll search for a pic.

Matt, tha's why I use brass to make the gravers. I would surely gouge things with steel.

There is no way I will refill bottles don't worry. Not knocking people who do but I am much too accident prone.

I'll find out more about burners Brad.

Thanks all.

Patrice
 
Teknition said:
Filling a disposable tank from a 20 lb'er is a bad idea. Even if you were to fill tank to tank, there would be no filings involved. The tank to tank connection is a hose, no way for filings to transfer from one tank to another. The danger of filling from tank to tank is overfilling the one you are trying to refill. If you fill it over capacity (there is supposed to be air space at the top of the cylinder when full) there is a danger of the tank over pressurizing due to expansion.
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This is the fitting I was talking about. There is no hose involved.

The problem is the orifice in the fitting is large enough for particles to flow through when the liquid is sloshing around as you tip the tank upside down, the liquid propane will carry particles into the small bottle. Also, there would have to be a serious overpressure condition in the source tank for there to be any real danger of overfilling the small bottle since the only pressure in the system is from the pressure of the source bottle.
 
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Nice work Patrice. I like the blade a lot.
As you discovered, 5160 is a deep hardening steel, and not suitable to develop a hamon.

Do not refill disposable propane cylinders. Besides the fact it is illegal in most places, it is just plain unnecessary. Get a hose manifold that hooks to the POL on the 20# tank. A camping/RV store will have one, maybe even some hardware stores. Here is what you want:
http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3007

Keep up the good work,
Stacy
 
Thanks for the good words Stacy.
I would love to be able to use 20lbs bottles but never mind using them, just storing them inside is sadly a no-no insurance wise here. But I'll definitely keep that in mind when I finally get my separate shop.

Patrice
 
If the regulations are against larger bottles , buy the 16.4 oz disposable bottles by the case at K-mart at Wal-mart. They are pretty cheap.

Jewelers have had to convert to small bottles recently due to regulations.

I used a 7# refillable bottle for years, but the gas dealer won't refill it any more because it doesn't have the new type valve. When the tanks didn't have the new anti-tilt valve, I could legally refill it from my 20# tank by putting the two together with a manifold, turning the 20# tank on its side, and allowing the liquid propane to flow from one to the other. Now, that won't work any more, and the Fire Dept has a new regulation limiting me to a 2# bottle or smaller....so to run the jeweler's torches, I use the 16.4 oz. disposables.

Stacy
 
Yes Stacy I do use those 1lbs bottles. They work quite well. I just have to try putting them in a water bucket to keep them from freezing like Sam suggested.

I have to look into those jeweler's torches. Must be useful.

Patrice
 
Jewelers torches are like tiny welding/brazing torches. They have changeable tips with different orifices, and you use gas and oxygen. For knifemakers, they are great for soldering on guards and drawing the temper on the spine.
The supply/tool boxes I am sorting out will have a torch in each box.
Stacy
 
Let's continue. Time to work on the handle. Cut a piece of Bloodwood to the appropriate size. A mistake I use to make when I began making knives was cutting the wood closer to shape before attaching it. It is much easier to work with a square piece of wood and shape it after.
100_3216.resized.JPG


We get the end good and flat on the disk sander to get a tight fit with the guard.
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We transfer the location of the tang to our piece of wood.
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My drillpress doesn't have along enough travel to do all the drilling so we start with a regular length 5/32 drillbit and drill a line of holes the width of our tang.
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More to come...

Patrice
 
Switching to the hand drill and an extra long 5/32 drill bit that we pre-marked with a piece of take for the depth. (as you'll see later I need to make a proper drill stop instead of the piece of tape)
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Time to clean up the slot for the tang using a modified drywall saw. It works ok but I do need to make or buy a proper broach for doing this.
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Since the saw alone is not the best I had to use a modified reciprocating saw as well as the long drill bit again.
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Didn't have pin stock of the appropriate size so used the old trusty lathe (ok this one IS old ;)) to turn some to about 5/32 which I think will look good.
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More to come.

Patrice
 
Sorry folks for the missing pictures, the hard disk crashed on the server. They say things should return to normal this afternoon.

Patrice
 
Website is back up....

Drilled the hole in the tang (make it a little over sized and oval to get a nice tight fit at the guard) and marked the location on the handle block.
100_3232.resized.JPG


Drilled through. Make sure to put a piece of tape on the back to minimize chipping when the bit breaks through the wood. Some wood are better than others for this. The Bloodwood I have is terrible. If you don't put anything you would get get a chip the size of a dime. :(
100_3233.resized.JPG


Cleaned up the tang, guard and pin with acetone. Some epoxy for the handle and a little Bloodwood dust to mix in with the epoxy for the pin.
100_3234.resized.JPG


Everything is glued and in the clamp. Now we wait a good 24 hours. Not sure this particular glue needs it but better safe than sorry and I ain't in no hurry.
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More to come...

Patrice
 
That is going to be a very cool looking knife. Nice WIP thread Patrice thanks for sharing can't wait to see it finished. John
 
Thanks John, glad you like it.

A few more...

Everything is good and dry. We move to the bandsaw to remove the bulk of the wood not needed making sure to leave enough for final shaping with sanding..
100_3237.resized.JPG


Now with a large drum on the drum sander we start the shaping. It is starting to look like a handle but obviously still not proportionate.
100_3239.resized.JPG


With a smaller drum we can really it starting to take shape.
100_3240.resized.JPG


Patrice
 
Man, I can't wait to see the end result. I really love the blade design! Thanks for doing such a great WIP, I picked up a bunch of great tips. Great job Patrice!
 
Patrice that Bloodwood really pops!! It's going to be a beautiful knife when it's done. John
 
Cool WIP thread Patrice. It looks like the knife is coming out very nice too. I had to look at that clamp twice because I thought it was mine. :D
 
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