FINISHED my first damascus fixed blade!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I think we are getting off track. I was going to send my comments by PM or email, but chad2 can't receive those.

It is a nice knife.....lets leave it there for Chad's thread.

Chad, if you want to discuss it, and get some reference material, send me an email - sapelt@cox.net.
 
Lets keep in mind Ed Fowler describes his method with a specific steel.

Alabama Damascus is not one of them.
 
Yes, I think we are getting off track. I was going to send my comments by PM or email, but chad2 can't receive those.

It is a nice knife.....lets leave it there for Chad's thread.

Chad, if you want to discuss it, and get some reference material, send me an email - sapelt@cox.net.
thanks i will be emailing you soon :-)
 
One thing i forgot to mention was that this knife was kind of a push knife for me so i did not cut corners but i went out evry day and worked on it, well what i am trying to get at is i was not able to bring it to the shop to use the drill press so i did it at home with a corded hand drill lol it was very scary for me. I know that it was risky but i was able to pull it off. :-)
 
I was inspired to read up on Ed Fowler's process after reading through this page. Seemed very alien to me to postpone several days to temper the blade. Here is what he wrote up on his forum in response to another person's question:

Please keep in mind that heat treat starts with selection of the steel and includes all events to the finished blade.

After forging is nearly completed I give the blade three quenches from critical in room temperature oil for 35 seconds. Since I started this I have experienced no blade warp! These quenches promote blade uniformity.

Then two flash normalizing cycles followed by a full normalizing cycle to room temp. in still air, after cool into the freezer over night.

Then three tempering heats at 988 f, in my Paragon at room temp, heated to 988 in one hour, then held for 2 hours and allowed to cool in Paragon to room temp. Then in the freezer overnight for a total of thee cycles.

Hardening: Three cycles - with a torch to critical, then quenched in Texaco Type A heated to 165 f. the blade is allowed to cool to room temp. in the oil. One cycle a day, and into the home freezer over night.

Tempering: From room temp. into the Paragon - up to 388 in one hour, held at temp for two hours, then allowed to cool to room temp in the Paragon, then into the home freezer over night one cycle a day for three days.

-Why?

When forged properly, quality 5160 and 52100 are great steels.
The time between cycles costs us nothing and allows what happens to develop more completely. Let us consider some abstract thoughts - say 90 % of what happens during heat treat happens in the first cycle, then 90% of the remaining 10% happens in the second cycle and 90% of that still remaining 10 % happens in the third cycle, we have come to a point of diminishing returns. I have found that when seeking the best blade seek, that time is a significantly contributing factor.

The extended times and depth of the cycles have proven to enhance blade performance (as I measure it).

The cycles utilized in multiple quench result in no measurable retained austenite in the hardened part of our blades. There is also no measurable carbon loss.

For the beginner it is easy to over heat steel, or create a significant stress raiser into a blade. Those who claim we must temper immediately after quenching a blade probably do so due to lessons learned thanks to stress in the blade, either by virtue of the steel they chose or their methods. They temper quick to save a faulty blade.

I would much rather have a blade fail in my shop than in a client's hands.

Pretty interesting. If anything allows him to wait a substantial amount of time, perhaps its his incredibly elaborate grain-refinement cycles and probably precise temperature control?

EDIT: Sorry, didn't mean to stray off-topic.
 
NIce knife!

Just curious. It looks like you chose a left handed chisel grind. I wonder why you chose to sharpen both sides of the edge?
 
NIce knife!

Just curious. It looks like you chose a left handed chisel grind. I wonder why you chose to sharpen both sides of the edge?
I love the look of a single bevel and a double sharpened edge is easier to sharpen :-)
 
Pretty cool chad2, glad you posted here in shoptalk, were talkin about goin above and beyond, and your efforts are cool in using your freezer!However im afraid you havent brought out the true beauty in that damascus, ive used alot of Brads damascus, and it etches nicely, the spine could look so much better, and the contrasts sooo much deeper!! Take a look at your cf mixtures, and times, its worth experimenting, and mix some acetone with dry ice for some backyard cryo, leave the freezer for the food. Have fun and keep at it!! Greg
 
Above and beyond is a great sentiment; I believe the message is in the words themselves. Its the direct opposite of blind acceptance.

Good effort on the knife, Fred
 
we are all knife makers here our job is to go above and beyond right.
Know here is my question to you guys do you believe it is hurting the steel for me to put it in a freezer?

If you're looking for scientific proof, there's plenty a material in the American Society of Metals: Atlas of Heat Treating that explains that there are no metallurgical tranformations to the grain structure until ~ -90F. If you want to go the extra mile, skip the freezer and use acetone/dry ice.


If ed fowler says he has found that it has given him some good results then that is good enough for me.

Ed Fowler posted in this month's Blade magazine that if you grind with a 36 grit belt, you need to keep on grinding with higher grits, because if you leave a knife ground with 36 grit on the bench, the scratches will continue to get deeper over time. :eek:
 
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Before you get hooked, be sure to try out a few other types of damascus. Mostly they are a lot more expensive, but since Patrice is so wealthy that should not be a problem. ;)

Greg, are you implying I am not really a knifemaker? :(

Cause you should know that wealthy and knifemaker are complete opposites. ;)

Chad, don't listen to him, this is a hobby for me and I am on a budget too believe me. Thanks for the info and I sure hope you get to work with it again.
 
What I write has all been proven in a laboratory to work with the steels we use, 52100 and 5160. You will not find it in the text books. Everyone has to chose their methods for themselves. The most important message I have to offer is to test your blades for performance doing what you intend them to be used for.

Testing to destruction is very revealing, if you have not tried it with one of your knives you may have a lot to learn.
 
Patrice Lemée;10631361 said:
Greg, are you implying I am not really a knifemaker? :(

Cause you should know that wealthy and knifemaker are complete opposites. ;)

Chad, don't listen to him, this is a hobby for me and I am on a budget too believe me. Thanks for the info and I sure hope you get to work with it again.
Yes me to :-)
 
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