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Finishing up the HHH blade blank
- Thread starter tryppyr
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Today I spent a lot of time (and sanding roll) getting the wood to fit properly and sized properly to mate with the metal pieces. That mus is pretty close to complete now. What remains is to finish shaping and sanding the pommel, assemble the parts, then do the final finish sanding of the whole knife.
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Now isn't that a real ugly sucker ! To me anyway. No styling and no finishing , but the materials used were good choices. Sorry but thats the way I see it. Frank
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Today I spent a lot of time (and sanding roll) getting the wood to fit properly and sized properly to mate with the metal pieces. That mus is pretty close to complete now. What remains is to finish shaping and sanding the pommel, assemble the parts, then do the final finish sanding of the whole knife.
I think he missed this post...
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No , I didn't miss it. What's better? Not much change showing there, but a lot more time and effort and some of this could come out better. Frank
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The change isn't all that visible from those angles. Most of the work went into insuring a tight fit between the guard and the handle, and removing the extra wood left at the edges to allow me to fit it properly once the guard was locked in place.
Since that set of photos, I've finished shaping the pommel and glued the handle in place. Tomorrow I complete the assembly and then do the final fit and finish sanding.
Since that set of photos, I've finished shaping the pommel and glued the handle in place. Tomorrow I complete the assembly and then do the final fit and finish sanding.
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I wish you well Mr. Tryppyr and I hope I see it happen. Certainly the materials are first class and the styling except for the guard is quite a standard good one. I sure understand the desire to do "new things" and I believe that should happen, but doesn't showing the knife finished mean it should offer certain qualities? If they aren't there what is the reason for the post? Will you go and point out problem areas that you see to be visible and recognize and as well show in your next WIP how you have corrected them. . Frank
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I'll be honest, Frank, and admit I don't not 100% sure what you are driving at. I think I get it, but I'm not sure, so let me take a stab at it.
At one point I had a problem with the original handle I was working on. There were, in fact, a few problems with the original handle. The first was that I had drilled out the center slot incorrectly, which caused the upward tilt that was observed. This was caused by the fact that I have a very small drill press and have to make a lot of compromises to the way I drill holes through handle blocks lengthwise. Another problem along the same line is that I did not leave enough spare wood at the top edge of that slot to address the orientation problem.
The third problem with the handle was that while I was trying to get a nice flat join between the handle and the guard using the sander, I kept screwing it up... a little too much of the left... then overcompensate on the right... now centered, but too much contact at the top... then overcompensate and too much off the bottom. Get that centered and now it's off on the left again. Eventually I had removed too much wood and the handle no longer would have worked without spacers, and I didn't want spacers.
If I read Frank's post correctly, I should have shown those problems and shown how I corrected them in the second handle block.
Honestly, I didn't take pictures at that time because I was frustrated and angry. I do still have the mangled handle piece and could show some of those problems, but the rest would only have been visible if I could take pictures holding the pieces up against a backlight.
On the second handle block the things I did differently were to make the slot smaller and leave more space on all sides. It was this "more space" situation that I spent so much time addressing yesterday. The way I addressed it this time was to leave the power sander alone and just take some 120 grit HF sanding cloth, lay it flat on my workbench and rub the piece on it in various ways to get the right angle on the front of the handle block, and to evenly remove material around the sides in a way that kept the piece flush with the side of the guard.
So again, I'm not sure this addresses the issues you raise... hope it does... but if not, I'm open to more comments.
As an aside, I had another mild crisis last night. Before attaching the handle I used JB Weld to attach the guard to the blade. My thought in doing so was that the JB weld would form a nice seal around the tang so the AcraGlas I use on the handle would stay in place. Apparently I missed a small spot in one of the corners. 2.5 hours after I had poured AcraGlas down the tang from the back, I found it had leaked onto the blade, covering a space about 3 inches long. It was partially set, firming up but not hard. I tried scraping it off with my nails, so as not to scar the etching, but that was no good... so I went to the garage and used some Acetone on a paper towel and that did the trick beautifully.
This morning I decided to finish the assembly using KB Weld to attach the pommel. It's drying now.
At one point I had a problem with the original handle I was working on. There were, in fact, a few problems with the original handle. The first was that I had drilled out the center slot incorrectly, which caused the upward tilt that was observed. This was caused by the fact that I have a very small drill press and have to make a lot of compromises to the way I drill holes through handle blocks lengthwise. Another problem along the same line is that I did not leave enough spare wood at the top edge of that slot to address the orientation problem.
The third problem with the handle was that while I was trying to get a nice flat join between the handle and the guard using the sander, I kept screwing it up... a little too much of the left... then overcompensate on the right... now centered, but too much contact at the top... then overcompensate and too much off the bottom. Get that centered and now it's off on the left again. Eventually I had removed too much wood and the handle no longer would have worked without spacers, and I didn't want spacers.
If I read Frank's post correctly, I should have shown those problems and shown how I corrected them in the second handle block.
Honestly, I didn't take pictures at that time because I was frustrated and angry. I do still have the mangled handle piece and could show some of those problems, but the rest would only have been visible if I could take pictures holding the pieces up against a backlight.
On the second handle block the things I did differently were to make the slot smaller and leave more space on all sides. It was this "more space" situation that I spent so much time addressing yesterday. The way I addressed it this time was to leave the power sander alone and just take some 120 grit HF sanding cloth, lay it flat on my workbench and rub the piece on it in various ways to get the right angle on the front of the handle block, and to evenly remove material around the sides in a way that kept the piece flush with the side of the guard.
So again, I'm not sure this addresses the issues you raise... hope it does... but if not, I'm open to more comments.
As an aside, I had another mild crisis last night. Before attaching the handle I used JB Weld to attach the guard to the blade. My thought in doing so was that the JB weld would form a nice seal around the tang so the AcraGlas I use on the handle would stay in place. Apparently I missed a small spot in one of the corners. 2.5 hours after I had poured AcraGlas down the tang from the back, I found it had leaked onto the blade, covering a space about 3 inches long. It was partially set, firming up but not hard. I tried scraping it off with my nails, so as not to scar the etching, but that was no good... so I went to the garage and used some Acetone on a paper towel and that did the trick beautifully.
This morning I decided to finish the assembly using KB Weld to attach the pommel. It's drying now.
Fred.Rowe
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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There is a certain sameness to knives today just like in all eras. There is an excepted norm that many people who make knives in that period, are willing to follow. There are styles today that I would not miss, if I never saw another one.
A great man once said, "without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" I have this posted above my layout table and I accept it as truth.
I understand " what sells " philosophy; but there is a need for experiment. There's wonder and discovery to be found in pushing the boundaries, not in making the same thing over and over. That to me is boredom.
I applaud those who have little regard for the accepted norm. I cheer these people on. I'm one of those. I love to try the impossible.
What you are sharing in this thread; may not be the next ABS Bowie or tech wonder, that is not important. What is important is that you possess the spark that gives you the freedom to deviate from the norm.
Fred
A great man once said, "without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible" I have this posted above my layout table and I accept it as truth.
I understand " what sells " philosophy; but there is a need for experiment. There's wonder and discovery to be found in pushing the boundaries, not in making the same thing over and over. That to me is boredom.
I applaud those who have little regard for the accepted norm. I cheer these people on. I'm one of those. I love to try the impossible.
What you are sharing in this thread; may not be the next ABS Bowie or tech wonder, that is not important. What is important is that you possess the spark that gives you the freedom to deviate from the norm.
Fred
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- Sep 10, 2000
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- 4,786
Tryppyr, do believe you have a done a good finishing job? If not why not ask how to do it better? Is the butt pined on ? Is there a smooth transition from wood to metal or a very definite finished change one to the other? Perhaps when you had problems with your fitting up the guard and handle others would have made suggestions to help correct without replacement ? It is a good thing you see the problems that are very visible. Do you stop and replace the bad stuff or figure you will look after that the next time? I don't imagine you are looking to throw stuff out but if problems are visible why not correct them? This will keep you centered on whatever is at hand and should help you to advance your work. And I do have to ask what do you use these listings for? Frank
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Frank, it isn't finished yet, so no, I haven't (yet) done a good job of finishing it.
When something isn't working, I "stop and replace the bad stuff", which is why I replaced the handle block.
What I use these threads for is giving my friends (and other interested parties) a chance to follow along and make comments and suggestions. Though it's becoming apparent you aren't paying much attention, your comments are still welcome.
- Greg
When something isn't working, I "stop and replace the bad stuff", which is why I replaced the handle block.
What I use these threads for is giving my friends (and other interested parties) a chance to follow along and make comments and suggestions. Though it's becoming apparent you aren't paying much attention, your comments are still welcome.
- Greg
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Greg, While not every knife you (or other makers for that matter) make is a style I love, I do applaud your imagination, perserverence and enjoy wathcing the builds. Thank you, Jess
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Since my poor communication and teaching skills are of no use in this thread, I have chosen to delete them and let Greg carry on unobstructed by my unwanted advice. 
Last edited:
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Nick, I am going in exactly the same direction as you or you have read exacly what I meant. How can someone be an educater to others if they don't know how to do what they are about. I don't see how this encourages others unless to say anything is better than nothing. And, the worst of it seems to be these days that that is the attitude many are taking. That's fine if its just for themselves but pushing these efforts out through the Blade Forums seems to say "yah, this is all there's to it." WRONG !!! Perhaps it's the simplicity of appearance that allows people to think that there can't be much involved in making something like this. Well probably not if the usual WIPs are examples. And getting the tools you think will make the job simple, very seldom quickly equates to quality work, as many know. Doing a WIP doesn't make you a good knifemaker or teacher there of. And showing work that you know isn't good for whatever reason won't change that or make you popular in the end. It seems that praise is what is often wanted with these WIPs. The makers of these certainly aren't wanting someone to step in and say how bad it realy is. Well, if you don't like it don't say anything. Why not? this is a place to learn and appreciate not where people lay out their garbage for all to see.There is an abundance of helpful, willing to help, knowledgeable, and experienced people here. Give them a chance and they will come through for us all. How about if you don't know what you are doing, don't try to show others that you can't? Frank
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Greg, I didn't expect you to change it at all.
I just felt like I was seeing and feeling where Frank was going with his posts, but might be able to post it in a different way.
I just felt like I was seeing and feeling where Frank was going with his posts, but might be able to post it in a different way.
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I see the point now, Frank. You were inspired by the "newbie WIP" thread and decided to take it upon yourself to jump into the WIP threads and correct what you perceive to be a problem with people "teaching" the wrong methods.
I suppose I should have made the connection sooner.
- Greg
I suppose I should have made the connection sooner.
- Greg