Square_peg
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Do you know now who made this "KoTe" kirve?
I'm guessing it's a Billnäs and the KoTe is someone's after market stamp.
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Do you know now who made this "KoTe" kirve?
Just a suggestion to help newcomers to this thread. I am assuming that a new person would naturally want to start at the beginning, so that would be the first reference to that catalog they would see. Editing that post with this link would get them the same catalog but much faster (it's 38.3 MB):I forgot I had this. Has this 1928 Billnäs tool catalog already been posted on this thread?
Large file. 258meg pdf.
Note: The images are stretched vertically.
http:\\cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/axephotos/Finnish/Luettelo Billnäs'in Takeista 1928_01_01_1928.pdf
Something else I found: Hole catalogue of 1928:
https://digi.kansalliskirjasto.fi/pienpainate/binding/338807?page=1 . . .
I'm guessing it's a Billnäs and the KoTe is someone's after market stamp.
Not suggesting this is THE answer, but I found this interesting.I was also under the impression that the larger head models were sold to be handled by the user. When did that stop? Or did it completely? Is it a fact that they always sent them out with a handle?
Not suggesting this is THE answer, but I found this interesting.
"Axes were in general sold without hafts up until the 1940s as everyone was expected to make their own hafts to fit the axe."
Quote from Lepola. Marcus' article:
Headhunting Billnäs "12" Axes
Bob
...As for the "26": I'm thinking the same, but it kind of depends on a couple of things:
- Width of the section thats connected to the eye? (will it stand up to the punishment)
- How wide is the eye compared to the bit itself? (will it hit?)
Could you take measurements of the eye and the bit and the connecting piece (width)?
Could you take measurements of the length of the bit front to back (eye to cutting edge)?
Could you take a photo from top down?
If I get some measurements and a picture I could calculate if its up to the task or not. Normally it wouldn't be much of problem. My Danish axe (being kind of the granddaddy) is heavier, has a wider and longer bit, and a smaller neck (5:1 bit:neck ratio) And that stand up just fine. So I believe its actually quite possible. Why did it didn't happen?
-People where shorter, so long length handles wheren't neccesary.
-Trees are less wide in those parts and softer in general (birch being the mainstay).
-Handle wood was less dense/strong (again birch being the mainstay).
Could still be a genius concept though!
The lower one is the danish axe. with a head weight of about 3,5kg, so about 7.5 or 8 pounds. The "26" weighs in 2 pounds less
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Just one question: How wide is the thinnest part measured on the top. With that I mean the bridge measured on the top. But judging from the looks of it, it should be at least a 1/2 inch thick? If so, it should work just fine on a 36" handle. The narrowest it needs to be to hold up is 1/4". Thinner then that and structural integretty becomes a problem.
The point of breakage will allways be the point where the blade and the eye meet at the underside. Taking a round file and making the transition round should prevent that.
So, next question is, got a spare???? Because I want oneOnly the head though!
Willing to part with it then????
This may mean nothing, but fwiw I found pictures of two /3s with rulers and did the following comparison. Billnäs on the left, Kellokoski on the right:Sometimes the auction listers/owners call them Billnäs or Kellokoski without marks.
I noticed is that the Kellokoski axes have eyes that are more softened rectangular shape than the Billnäs.
Your picture looks that way to me. Picture with mine added:Bob, what does your “eye” tell you?
The Finnish Handcrafters Association presents: Piilu hewing workshop
Bob