firestarting in extreme conditions

Cliff Stamp

BANNED
Joined
Oct 5, 1998
Messages
17,562
Well what better way to spend an evening with friends than outside in the rain and snow, at night, in an overcast sky in the middle of the woods, pitch black where you can't see your hand in front of your face. The goal : start a fire with no accelerants (meaning gas or flares mainly) and only a small amount of prepared tinder (something that fits in an Altoids tin). The reward : a bottle of 15 year old Macallan.

I had made fires in all of those conditions before, but never all at the one time, and it didn't make things easy. In the dark is pretty bad, you can't see anything, and I mean anything, if you lay down your knife it is pretty much gone, so you have to be really careful about old habits, even sticking it in a tree or similar, forget it. I was really wishing for a luminescent grip. Everything is by feel and you don't want to be feeling for a sharp blade on the ground or having someone else smack into it.

Cutting shavings is also problematic as you can't see them, people quickly shed their coats and used them to catches scrapings and shavings, others made fuzz sticks which also worked, but it was raining so much that by the time you carved the stick it was too wet to light (this was after carving off 1/4" of the outside to get to dry wood inside) so even storing it inside your coat/shirt didn't work.

Within 10-15 minutes everyone started building mini shelters using coats under trees to make a rain break, there were no really thick trees immediately present (I picked the location). It was also hard to get a base as everything was covered with snow and slush and there were no decent heavy bark trees (I picked the location), what worked best was to break off green boughs, shake them off and place them on a bed of rocks.

However you had to go barehanded as wet gloves can't handle dry tinder, and all of this was making bare handed work really uncomfortable, the rocks were buried in snow/ice and thus getting them out and moving them isn't pleasant. Some of the knives also had metal handles which were got a fair share of complaints due to the cold.

Here are some general rules learned :

1) the more tinder the better, small balls of vasoline don't work if everything is saturated, they don't provide enough heat, paper and lint is useless for the same reason, excellent to catch a spark or a flame but you need something to actually sustain a flame for at least 5 minutes and you want a large flame volume as in about a litre

2) a flashlight would have been excellent, some people tried working by lighter or worse yet match light (waxed matches helped) but this wastes a lot and causes a lot of burned fingers, plus with a flashlight you would have noted no less than four bough caves built in no less than a 30 foot radius, however unless you actually smacked right into them you would walk right on by

3) rain sucks for building a fire, you have to make a break as soon as possible, you can't prepare tinder without it, once the rain was removed it went from being hard to just annoying as the main factor was just the cold and the numbing fingers, if you work together one person can shelter the other, you can also do this yourself but it is awkward, especially if it is windy and the rain isn't just some straight down.

4) it is actually much better to build a shelter first and then make a fire, it takes maybe 10-15 minutes with light to make a first stage bough cave (frame plus a few inches of boughs), this alone makes a massive difference, I checked several of the ones I had made, some even had just one side, and all of them were not raining inside, though it was wet in there, it wasn't a steady flow of water.

I quickly realized I would build a shelter first, frame out a cave if I didn't find a decent dead fall, ideally use something like this :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Spyderco/endura/endura_shelter_I.jpg

which you can frame out one side in about 5 minutes with a decent long knife, clear out the front and underside and pile all of it on the back, this gives a rain break and wind if you are lucky and it comes from the back. If not then fill out the front as well, it takes maybe 10-15 minutes to go to this :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Spyderco/endura/endura_shelter_III.jpg

a lot longer in the dark, at least a half an hour, assuming there are enough trees so you don't have to walk to find them, cutting boughs when you can't see them is kind of dangerous, a saw is safer than a blade though much more time consuming. If you have a couple of garbage bags you can make rain breaks very easily, a couple of the guys hauled off their boots and took the plastic bags out (local home made rainboots) and used them to great effectiveness.

Even if you can get a fire going without a wind/rain break, it provides no heat at all as it is very difficult to get it to burn hot as everything is so wet, and you are just getting colder and wetter. The only thing it does it give you some light to move, if I had some gas or oil I might consider it first as it makes the shelter building much easier, but if it was anyway light out and I could see to move, shelter first.

If you are curious as to who won, I did, using knowledge of the enviroment (I picked the location) I "accidently" found one of the premade shelters, took the small cardboard+wax tinder bundle and used it to burn some green boughs, within a couple of minutes I had a self sustaining fire, which was readily burning sticks a fraction of an inch thick, not trimmed and more boughs. Of course the prize was shared among all participants.

I have since modified the cardboard firestarters so now they include an inner core of cotton or lint with some vaseline, this catches with a spark or with the barest of flame contact, and ignites the cardboard core which provides enough heat to burn even fairly wet woods.

A pile of knives were used, a whack of Spyderco folders, plain edged and serrated, a bunch of large knives and some axes including a hatchet and a full size felling axe. Interestingly enough the serrated folders were very well recieved, they make shavings fine and they very aggressively cut boughs. They don't respond well to batoning, but there was little of that done though it would be a consideration for extended use.

-Cliff
 
Adverse conditions are usually where we need fire the most, and naturally, they are the hardest conditions in which to build one. Practicing skills and constantly improving them (and sharing that knowledge gained) is a very worthwhile persuit. I got my start on the firemaking in the early Boy Scout competitions, expanded while hunting as a youth, and honed at "mountain man" rendevous. As long as I live, I hope to keep learning, and likewise sharing. Thanks for the tips!

Codger
 
This got me thinking a little about wind & wet. If you are going light the straws filled with vaselined cotton wool are pretty good. The one I just made though was one third cottonwool in the middle of the straw. Either side of that were 3 thin natural rubber bands. The cotton lights very easily with a fire steel and the rubber, once going burns nice and hot for about 4-5 mins. I thought you could also wrap a short length of aluminium foil around the straw to improvise a wind shield when gusts can be troublesome.
 
Codger_64 said:
Adverse conditions are usually where we need fire the most, and naturally, they are the hardest conditions in which to build one.

Yeah, everyone there spends a lot of time outdoors, in fact a few of them had just went on a family hike the day before, built a fire and had a small cookout, so it was not like there was no experience with fire starting, however it was pretty much conditions where no one would actually subject themselves to for recreation so ther was little specific experience.

Some were quite surprised to find for example that fuzz sticks were useless because even with paper thin woods they would get wet immediately and thus even holding them right over a lighter they would not burn. Even tissue paper would get wet almost immediately so by the time you layed it down and put some shavings on it, it was already damp.

We discussed it afterwards, and the number one comment was to never let yourself get into that situation. What stood out to me was just how much of an effect even just 5-10 minutes of light would make so that a panic even just for a few minutes would make a major difference and just how important it is to act quickly.


Temper said:
The one I just made though was one third cottonwool in the middle of the straw. Either side of that were 3 thin natural rubber bands. The cotton lights very easily with a fire steel and the rubber, once going burns nice and hot for about 4-5 mins. I thought you could also wrap a short length of aluminium foil around the straw to improvise a wind shield when gusts can be troublesome.

This is ideal, multi-stage tinder which is resistant to water, lights easily and can sustain a decent flame. I have been playing with the cardboard and you can adjust the ratios, use far less cardboard and more wax and get better results, essentially turning it more into a heavy candle. Cover it with plastic wrap or better yet foil which has more uses.

shane justice said:
Who won ...Shane

Me, but I picked the location, and have spent a lot of time seeing how much fire you need to ignite various materials so I knew exactly what to bring for tinder. It was a rigged contest, mainly meant to be more of a social outing than an actual competition, I had intended to open the bottle that night anyway.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
............ I was really wishing for a luminescent grip. Everything is by feel and you don't want to be feeling for a sharp ..................

-Cliff

For decent ambient light and to prevent your knife from being lost in the darkness, how about attaching a chemlight with paracord.
 
Sounds like an excellent idea to me, Photon lights and similar would also be well appreciated. There are lots of very small lights, ideally you would want a very bright one for a signal and a low light one with a long burn time for everything else.

-Cliff
 
Great post Cliff.

I live in PEI Just a bit south of you. We got a good storm half rain and snow (sent it your way) not to mention the wind! I was thinking that this is the "death zone weather" rainy windy and up and down below freezing. I was thinking how hard it would be to get a fire going out in the back woods, then I read your post!

I'll take a moment and make a tinder can to put in my winter vest , I'll put in a single LED key chain with my steal!

I think a wee bit of dried and crumpled birch bark and cedar shavings. I must try and make a few fuzz sticks I haven;t really tried lately and now that I know how to keep my knives sharp it should prove a bit easier. My serated folder is handy for cutting wood and I think would do a good job.

My only trip to St John's required a lot of beer, mostly "Dark Arse" at Trapper John's ouch I remember the hangover!

Tomorrow I need to order a knife and you inspired a trip to the liquor store for a single malt scotch.
 
Thanks for the info, good stuff.

Cliff Stamp said:
small cardboard+wax tinder bundle
I'm familiar with fire straws, but nothing that includes cardboard. Was the cardboard rolled up and then saturated with wax?

For finding stuff in the dark, I wonder if a strip of safety tape would work. I think a few companies make some that is not reflective, but actually luminous.
 
I very eagerly asked a very experience native outdoorsman to share the secret of lighting a fire in adverse conditions.

His one word reply?

Diesel!

Seriously it can be a real bugger when it's wet.
 
I'm a big fan of the aforementioned birch bark. Amazing stuff, it will burn even after having been immersed in water. While I've never done it at night, I have started fires in wind driven rain using a mag block with birch bark and dead twigs collected from the lower branches of large spruce trees. Did you guys in the Maritimes get whacked with the meter of snow that hit northen Maine? I'm in eastern Maine, and it is currently pouring buckets outside.
 
Thanks for the insight!! You don't really mention anything about using wet wood/kindling. I'm assuming all the wood found in the area was wet at least to some degree. Were you able to find drier wood in some locations?

"2) a flashlight would have been excellent"

Lately I find myself much prefering to carry a Princeton Tech Aurora or Eos headlamp instead of a flashlight. Smaller and lighter than most flashlights, uses AAA batteries, long lasting, can be hung or wrapped around all sorts of things including my head, easy to use multiple light levels save batteries and give romantic ambiance, and, well, "Look ma, no hands!!"


"4) it is actually much better to build a shelter first"

When in Boy Scouts and when canoing the Boundary Waters the rule for dealing with rain was to don rain gear as soon as possible to stay dry, and then to setup the dining fly before anything else in camp is setup, though this fly was never setup over the campfire (though I've witnessed several Coleman stoves go supernova under dining flies). Regardless, the idea is pretty much the same.
 
Cliff, Thanks for yet another informative and entertaining report. Our outing last weekend in the rain highlighted the difficulties of working with wet natural tinders and wood. All the wood had to be split to get to the dry interior because the outside was soaked.

Cliff Stamp said:
Sounds like an excellent idea to me, Photon lights and similar would also be well appreciated. There are lots of very small lights...
Your report of the troubles you had while firebuilding by braille served as (yet one more) reminder why I have 2 Inova Mini-LED (single LED) lights with me 24/7 and most of the time an Inova X5-MT (five LED's) lives in a vest pocket as well.

The Mini-LED lights from Inova have a runtime of 72 hours on a pair of CR2016 lithium batteries. I originally used them for lighting rear connectors on computer systems that were inevitably tucked in the darkest corner under desks. It will light a night-time trail a few feet in front of you no problem in clear conditions. The Inova Mini-LED (like the Photon and other such lights) is advertised as being visible from a mile away when they tout it as a signal.

The translucent bodied ones with omni-directional light dispersion would work well for both close-in task lighting from the front of the LED and as a locating beacon/marker. I actually prefer the opaque bodied version because the light emitting only out of its shrouded nose doesn't kill my night vision nearly as much as the light emitted from the translucent ones. Nonetheless, there are ALWAYS two of them (user and a spare) with me.

The X5 is rated IIRC at 20 hours runtime on a pair of CR123 batteries and is bright enough to reach out a few yards to light a trail, even in rainy weather. The X5 is also pretty bombproof -- waterproof & highly impact resistant. They were issued to grunts when they were early out, not sure about now.

The downside of both lights is availability of the batteries can be spotty, although the 123's are becoming rather ubiquitous due to their use in video cameras.

I am interested in checking out the 3 watt and 5 watt Luxeon LED lights when the prices come down a bit.

... ideally you would want a very bright one for a signal and a low light one with a long burn time for everything else.
For a "long burn time" low light device, how about the Traser Glo-Ring tritium tubes rated at 10 years runtime? Hang one on your knife lanyard and have no trouble finding your knife, even in the dark. Stealthy sorts can ignore that advice. ;) The tritium tubes cast light too dim to do much of any work by it. But as markers they work well. They are especially handy for keychains carried in the dark depths of a woman's purse.
 
For what its worth I have used an Inova red LED to signal about one km through treetops. I had arrived on a ridge hunting deer in PA and signalled my buddy in a treestand across the valley. I did cheat a bit and told him that I was on the ridge via radio first but he had no problem seeing the light at all. Mac
 
tarsier said:
I'm familiar with fire straws, but nothing that includes cardboard. Was the cardboard rolled up and then saturated with wax?

Cut very thin strips, the more surface area the better, bind them with twine into a tight roll. Drip wax along the roll, then cut it in half. The top cut end is very tight, you can add more wax to this, the bottom end which is frayed is what you light, stand it vertically, it will burn hot and well.

There is an optimal point for wax, if you add more it does little as it just runs off the cardboard into the ground. It doesn't hurt, but doesn't help much either, of course if you build on a decent base it will eventually burn but it won't do much initially.

That was the first incarnation, I now run a strip of rubber up the center on some to have a longer burn time (with some obvious down sides) and pad the bottom with material which can catch a spark to light. I then wrap them in a plastic bag and cover with a few elastics based on tempers post.

This gives a lot of material to work with, you could also use extra cord instead of elastics, but I can improvise cord easily, not so much elastics. How do you make elastics from vegetation?

I am planning to spend some time with the rubber ones this weekend, I want to see hoe much cardboard is needed to ignite the rubber and how much it enhances the burn time and how much of a signal it makes on its own.

kenk said:
I'm assuming all the wood found in the area was wet at least to some degree. Were you able to find drier wood in some locations?

It had been snowing for a few days, then it had rained for a day and was still raining when we started. If you could see it might have been possible to go deeper into the woods and look for heavy cover, but no one could locate anything dry and we were spread out over a fairly large area, about 10k square feet. However with a knife most of the wood could be trimmed to get at a dry core, it usually only meant removing a fraction of an inch of the outside. I found some old rotted wood, which I could break apart by hand, but it was soaked all the way through.

RokJok said:
The tritium tubes cast light too dim to do much of any work by it. But as markers they work well.

That alone would make it fairly valuable, one of the guys was using my SHBM and layed it down (edge in a stump) moved a few steps and it was gone. Just reflex and habit from working in the day. Primary concern was not losing the knife as much as having someone smack into it. Everyone did it a couple of times, old habits.

Interesting information about the burn times, 20 hours would just be a few nights. Of course you only need the light until the fire gets made, but still you want to be thinking rationing quickly and pack either extra lights or batteries depending on size.

Anyone have experience with the kinetic recharger flashlights? I used one a long time ago and it was near useless as in you had to be constantly charging it. Nice as a form of exercise but useless otherwise and left you with basically one hand.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
...Anyone have experience with the kinetic recharger flashlights?...
I'd be interested in this too. There is one that has been all over the TV for sale. I am not sure how good it is or if it is as durable as they claim...I doubt I believe you can drive over it and have it still work like they say in the ad! Anyways, love to hear if anyone has one or uses one, does it produce enough/much light, how long does some :jerkit: last, and how delicate is it (can not imagine it will stroke very well after deformation from say...a car driving over it).

Cliff: can you post any pictures of how you do your cardboard or post a link to a site that you might have already posted? Thanks.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Interestingly enough the serrated folders were very well recieved, they make shavings fine and they very aggressively cut boughs.
I recently picked up a Victorinox Spirit multitool. The blade has a small plain edge section at the base, but the rest of the blade is serrated. The serrations are very small compared to Spyderco, with fine teeth. The other thing they did differently is that they are ground on the opposite side of the blade from Spyderco. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but hope to soon.

Any thoughts on whether the Spyderco serrations would have worked even better if they were on the other side of the blade? I'm guessing that when a right-handed person is removing bark or pointing a stake, that the scallops would be effective.
 
X39,

We got it big time!!!! Then sent it north to Newfoundland! Then it rained for two days! All my snow melted :(

Atleast we had a few inches last night to give the place a nice white blanket!
 
Basic materials :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Spyderco/endura/fire_bundle_I.jpg

some notes :

-cut thinner and across the ridges to increase burn intensity
-the less wax the higher the intensity
-the tighter the wrap the slower the burn

Intensity and burn time are pretty much inversely proportional. I go for a mix which inbetween, usually cutting the cardboard to give high intensity and more wax for burn time, this gives me the best combination I have seen as there is more material burn so more total heat.


Wrap the cardboard around the rubber, the above just is enough for half as I was testing the differnce it makes. Tied the bundle together, leave the ends loose to allow ease of lighting, and run wax down the center, I use a half a cm wide strip just a drop thick.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Spyderco/endura/fire_bundle_II.jpg

Cut in half and put a tbls spoon of wax on the top, which melts during the burning so the whole thing acts like a big wick. This is a shot of the non-rubber one at 3 minutes into a burn :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Spyderco/endura/fire_3min.jpg

Without the rubber the times were 4.0 and 3.8 minutes to nothing but embers. With the rubber the times were 7.0 and 6.7 minutes. There was no need to time them, you could see the differnce, even that small strip of rubber burned a long time, you could see it burning as the cardboard fell to ash.

I tested them in high wind as I was also trying to see how they held up there and experimenting with fire pits, a nice piece of hollow bone or pipe is nice here for a draft. Without such high wind the burn times would be significantly longer. These were also not cut cross ridged and too thick a I wanted to compare to earlier burns. I prefer the other way as noted.

Anyway I am definately putting the rubber in the ones I make from now on, those joke candles are a nice addition as well. I am going to try some of them shortly, I also need to get a few more ferro rods so I can do some more spark testing. I just found out I accidently gave my last one away for x-mas.

As for the serrations, you generally way the flat side of a chisel edge into the wood for ease of control. this means no matter how it is ground you are only going to have it optimally half of the time as many carving cuts are done in reverse. You can work either way with some modifications to how the blade is held, specifically the angle, if you increase the flat side up to the angle of the serrations, it will act similar.

-Cliff
 
Back
Top