Firesteel...more sparks with carbon?

B

bushman14

Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Messages
239
Is it just me? I get way more sparks out of my firesteel using an old carbon steel Camillus combat knife than I do with any of my stainless knives.
 
Harder would be better, ie throw better sparks from a firesteel. It's more about the type of edge than material, as long as it is hard enough.
 
i got to agree with Lotoblades, harder steel works alot better, it is the edge type on the knives not the blade steel, nonstainless is not more effective then stainless (I hate the term "carbon steel", all steel is "carbon steel")
 
lotoblades said:
Harder would be better, ie throw better sparks from a firesteel. It's more about the type of edge than material, as long as it is hard enough.
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Lotoblades has it correct. No matter what type of steel, it's more about the edge of the spine. Harder steel does actually work better with a firesteel in theory.

If we were talking about a flint however, whole different ball game. You must have a carbon steel blade for it go spark off a piece of flint.
 
For a striker for a ferrocerium rod, the harder, the better, and the sharper, the better. The material doesn't matter. It doesn't even need to be steel, at all.
 
Evolute said:
For a striker for a ferrocerium rod, the harder, the better, and the sharper, the better. The material doesn't matter. It doesn't even need to be steel, at all.
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Yes, you're right. I use a Sandvik Coromant gasket remover. It's not a steel, and the edge is very sharp and keeps sharp. It throws sparks like I've never seen on a Ferrocerium rod (firesteel). But.......there are several quality ferrocerium rods. Some harder then others, which differs in performance.

CZ
 
Think ice skates.
Your Camillus might be like a newly sharped ice skate and your stainless knife might are like dull skates.
A Mora 2000 is a good knife but the blade back is not treated at all. It makes almost no sparks new from the shop. If you polish the back and you will get some great sparks.
If you have held a Fallkniven knife you know what I mean. They are really sharp.
 
I agree it's more about a nice sharp edge on the spine. My BM Nimravus (154CM Stainless) is the best spark thrower I have.
 
nodh said:
Think ice skates.
Your Camillus might be like a newly sharped ice skate and your stainless knife might are like dull skates.
A Mora 2000 is a good knife but the blade back is not treated at all. It makes almost no sparks new from the shop. If you polish the back and you will get some great sparks.
If you have held a Fallkniven knife you know what I mean. They are really sharp.
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Hey nodh,
I am thinking of getting a Mora 2000. 2 questions: what do you mean by polishing the back edge for improved sparking and also, could I use the Mora 2000 as a neck knife? How heavy is it? Thanks!

On topic however, my Benchmade Regular Griptilian in 440C throws awesome sparks from my steel, but my Ritter Grip in S30V sucks. Why??
 
So are you supposed to use the edge of the blade or the edge of the spine? I was using the edge of the blade on a magnesium fire started and it worked fine, no visable damage to the blade. I tried the spine but the blade has a coating which would not allow effective use.
 
Use the edge of the spine. Don't want to mess up your just sharpened knife...

I've used my TAK-1 RAT-3 and RAT-5, they all have a coating, and they all managed to give enough sparks with the spine to light PJ cottonballs........

CZ
 
Moras are stamped out to shape. The spine is ugly and soemtimes doesn't have a defined edge. If you flatten the spine with a stone and polish it a little it should strike the firesteel just fine.

I wouldn't use my edge unless I had to. JMHO. Just no reason to chance it.
 
whatever it is, as long as it is sharp it will work.

i have found that a freshly broken glass edge makes some of the best sparks. the only problem is that the edge gets chipped out easily. and its a little dangerous carrying around a peice of glass.

if you sharpen the edges of your spine to a sharp 90* angle, then that edge will scrape very well. think of a cabinet scraper. the edge is close to 90*, but it still scrapes wood very well, as long as that place where the two edges meet is sharp and not rounded at all.
 
Glass works great, but can be dangerous to use. I generally use a small piece of hacksaw blade, that works well also.
 
The back of the Mora 2000 is like ice skates that walked on concrete. take a sharpener and try to make the back as "square" as possible. You do not have to do it all over, just where you want to use the firesteel. It is quite light so it would work as a neck knife. The sheath however is soooo ugly put practical. It is a popular hunting knife in Sweden. It is considered to be an "expensive" knife since it cost about 130 Swedish kronor (20 USD). Mora knives can be bought for 15 SEK. Only knifenuts bring along knives like the F1 or similar 100-150 dollar knives. In a hunting team usually one knifenut has knives that cost about twice as the other hunters knives put together. :)
 
sodak said:
Glass works great, but can be dangerous to use. I generally use a small piece of hacksaw blade, that works well also.
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+1 on that.

I attached pieces of hacksaw blade to all my Doans mag blocks. They're great for scraping off mag filings and fantastic for making sparks on the ferro rod.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
I've never bothered to square up the spine of my knives. I just use the rearmost portion of the edge. In front of the choil, if you will. That part never sees use otherwise, so why not?
 
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