Firesteel Project

Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
1,085
Hello all,

Here are a couple of firesteel kits I made up. The corian came from another board member (thanks very much).

These are 1/4" x 2 1/2" rods with hacksaw blade strikers (I leave the teeth on to scrape fine dust off of the fatwood) and of course fatwood. I love this stuff.

So far they really seam like a great kit.

Just wanted to share.

Firesteelssmall.jpg


DeluxeFiresteelsmall.jpg


BasicFiresteelsmall.jpg


Another member sent me some orange G-10 pieces and I'm going to make some from that as well. I like the idea of a bright handled firesteel to make it easy to find if dropped.

Charlie
 
Nice looking kit, I use reflective tape on the firesteel handles myself regardless of their color to find if they get dropped in the darkness.
 
Holy Shatner! I never thought of using a hacksaw blade, I'll have to try that. Nice rig!
 
I drilled some fatwood for attachment to my firesteel as well, and put them on the JRE sheath for the Koster bushcraft. Works well together.

My main mini-fire kit is all orange and strapped together. Orange match/cotton/fatwood container, with orange paracord and orange BIC attached.
 
I just ordered 20 firesteel blanks on ebay last week for the scout troop, I was thinking some antler or soapstone handles, but I have a bunch of fatwood too.
 
Liam- I think that Arctic soapstone would work very well- at least the 50+ pounds I backpacked into camp 5 years ago!! Thanks for the great idea!! Now I just need to remember to find some fatwood somewhere.
 
In Ontario Rona carries it in 5lb boxes for $9.99, much cheaper than ordering it from the states or ebay

for scrapers I used some white blades from rona or home depot, either hacksaw or bandsaw not sure but the teeth were small and you can't hurt yourself or wreck clothing, need to cut them in small pieces.

For the handles, Michaels (Ontario craft store) has small wooden bobens looks like the things that sewing thread is on, but these are small, I shellaced them, worked great fit fine on the bulk order of firesteel I bought from ebay

but for teaching about firestarting we used cotton balls, instant gratifcation :)
 
Looks good.

The teeth are totally unnecessary for scraping fatwood optimally.

Would you mind to elaborate?

I cut small curls with my knife for the bulk of my catch tinder (I use this term because it's the small bit to catch the spark) or what some call first stage tinder. I found though that if I would also scrape some fine dust with the teeth of the striker it would really catch easily. I started doing this while using a BSA Hotspark that doesn't throw huge showers of sparks.

One other nice thing is that the hacksaw blades are Bi-metal so I can use them to cut metal if needed. While they are minimal they do work, especially if I need to score something.

By the way, I really liked your article about your PSK and used it quite a bit when building mine.

Thanks,

Charlie
 
Great job CShepherd!

I have 6 10mm x 100mm blanks on the way from UK. Couldn't contact the guys at ferrocerium.com and this guy on ebay offered me even a better deal.

I was wondering how to make some handles for them. I thought about getting a few pieces of wood, drilling them with a 10mm drilbit (like 2cm deep), put some epoxy on them and let it do the trick. Then shape the handle withand drill it for a lanyard hole. I will still have 80mm exposed for striking. Any other ideas?

Just one more question... I am not familiar with the term "fat wood", can anybody help? Thanks,
Mikel
 
Would you mind to elaborate?

I cut small curls with my knife for the bulk of my catch tinder (I use this term because it's the small bit to catch the spark) or what some call first stage tinder. I found though that if I would also scrape some fine dust with the teeth of the striker it would really catch easily. I started doing this while using a BSA Hotspark that doesn't throw huge showers of sparks.

One other nice thing is that the hacksaw blades are Bi-metal so I can use them to cut metal if needed. While they are minimal they do work, especially if I need to score something.

By the way, I really liked your article about your PSK and used it quite a bit when building mine.

Thanks,

Charlie

I'm not sure what the other guy is saying, but if you hold the back part(or teeth part that has been ground down into a blade or squared off) perpendicular to the fatwood, you can "scrape" really fine curls, much finer than if you try and "shave" curls off with your blade. Similarly, you can use your knife edge, held perpendicular, to scrape, or the spine of your knife(if it is squared off nicely) held at an angle so that one of the 90degree angles is perpendicular to the fatwood.

Kinda like this: l<

I have found that this method is by far the best for getting really fine curls that catch easily with a spark. I squared the spine of my knife, so I use it to scrape the fatwood and strike the steel, and it works beautifully.

I hope I explained it in a way that makes sense. If it makes sense try it, and I guarantee it will be like a light bulb going off and you'll be asking yourself why you didn't think about it before, that's what I did when I figured it out.
Just one more question... I am not familiar with the term "fat wood", can anybody help? Thanks,
Mikel

Fatwood is wood usually found at the base of dead Pine trees. The wood is saturated with pine sap, so fine curls or dust from it will catch fire from a spark really easy. Because it is basically completely solid pine resin(sap) it is waterproof. Think of it as magnessium, but much, much easier, and faster to use. In the States and Canada, it can be found at some local hardware stores, or places that sell firewood and firestarters, like somewhere that sells woodburning stoves perhaps, or you can order it online, just look for "fatwood", or "pitch wood". A lot of people use it to start woodburning stoves, or there woodburning fireplace, so look at those kinds of places.
 
Stingray,

I'll have to try that. What I've been doing is cutting curls with the blade, which I've found a convex edge seems to do this the best then laying the striker, teeth down agains the fat wood, lifting the non-teeth side slightly then scraping that way, basically sliding the teeth down along the fatwood. Makes some great dust. I'll try the perpendicular method.

Charlie
 
Thanks a lot Stingray! Now I know what are we talking about. So fatwood is basicaly resin saturated pine wood... mmm I guess I could get some from old tree stumps.
Mikel
 
Thanks a lot Stingray! Now I know what are we talking about. So fatwood is basicaly resin saturated pine wood... mmm I guess I could get some from old tree stumps.
Mikel

Look for ones that died a sudden death, like from a lightning strike, cut down, knocked down, etc. The roots think that the tree is still alive and will continue sending resin up the trunk. Of course, the trunk isn't there, so it all collects in the stump. Here is a bunch of information I gathered on it.
 
Would you mind to elaborate?

I cut small curls with my knife for the bulk of my catch tinder (I use this term because it's the small bit to catch the spark) or what some call first stage tinder. I found though that if I would also scrape some fine dust with the teeth of the striker it would really catch easily. I started doing this while using a BSA Hotspark that doesn't throw huge showers of sparks.

One other nice thing is that the hacksaw blades are Bi-metal so I can use them to cut metal if needed. While they are minimal they do work, especially if I need to score something.

By the way, I really liked your article about your PSK and used it quite a bit when building mine.

Thanks,

Charlie

Charlie,

What stingray4540 said is correct. If you hold the toothless side of your striker perpendicular to the fatwood and scrape, your result will look like this:

singleshaving.jpg


That's one single, continuous shaving, made in well under a second of work. Do that a few times, and your results will look like this:

fatwoodshavings.jpg


That's ten shavings, from ten scrapes, done in a very fast manner, well under ten seconds, with no teeth, no special tools.

These shavings work better than sawdust type dust from a toothed scraper. They are even thinner, and so they take a spark and light even more easily. They are fluffier, and so are better oxygenated while burning. They bind together, and so are easier to work with. They have more surface area, and so aiming a spark onto them is even quicker and easier.

Quick and easy tinder prep with no special tools. It could be done just as well with a fractured rock.

Read more, here:

http://www.mikespinak.com/articles/Essays/e994firesteelhowto.html

Let me know whether you have further questions.

Cheers.
 
Evolute,

Thanks for the explanation. I had seen those photos before, just didn't realize how they were made. I tried this technique with both the square edge of the scraper and with the squared back of two knives I almost always carry. It worked great. Learn something new everyday.

I think I'll leave the teeth since I've had the need for them in other purposes while outdoors before and they don't seem to bother anything. I've been carrying one of these kits daily for a couple of months now

Thanks

Charles
 
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