First blade questions!

Ahh, guess proper knife making is harder than i thought.Didnt even consider angles or how geometry would affect the knife,I was just winging it.Is there a way i can get the bevels at 22 degrees?Is there a tool that i can use to know what angle the bevels are at?
 
probably the easiest ways to cheat are either use a protractor to sketch out a 22 degree v on paper, then look from the point down your blade and see if it looks close, or take a square of paper, fold it diagonally in half, (that gives you 45 degrees) then fold that diagonally again, that gives you 22 1/2 degrees, that's good enough to get you on the on the map (as a master cabinetmaker I apprenticed to would say, good enough for a church)
I found my angles mostly by by experience, and seeing what really worked and what absolutely didn't. Cold chisels have a 90 degree included angle, you can sharpen them as fine as you want, you're probably not going to be able to shave with them, straightrazors have something like a 10 degree angle (just guessing without measuring) and cut like nobody's business, of course I wouldn't want to be chiseling steel with one.

If you want absolute certainty as to what your bevels are you can spent a whole lot of money on machinists' tools, Personally I would use the methods I suggested as a guide and wing it. Spend the several hundred dollars you save on Wayne Goddards $50 dollar knife shop book and a good belt grinder.

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i use simple trigonometry to figure out bevels. If you were to split the knife in half, there would be two right triangles.

so that X= how far the grind goes up the blade.

Code:
           (half the blade material)  
so TAN 22°=  ------------------------
                       X
 
If im following you right, a 1/16 thickness blade, cut in half would be 1/32, solving for x would yield .0773 inches, thats how far you would want the grind to go up?Am I retarted.
 
1/16th is awful thin to survive heat treatment! I would seriously up your thickness to at least 1/8 or 3/16 inch!

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