First custom made knife

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
A dime is .053" thick. You want the edge HALF the thickness of a dime for the steel you are using. .025-.030" is about right.
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The edge thickness prior HT you mention here is in inch. But Hengelo above mention .25 to .30mm. There is a big difference. I know in US most people use the inch instead of the millimeter system.

So I'm a bit confused how come some say 0.25" and other says 0.25mm? There is a big difference.
 
my 0.25mm is a bit thin, 0.5mm is not uncommon

I sometimes finnish one grit higher pre HT, then after HT use the grit I want and only have a few "goes" over the bevel with fresh sharp and dry sandpaper to make the final scratch pattern.
That way I make coarser fresh scratches on a smoother surface
 
Nice to have it sort put. I looked the thickness up across a various posts and 0.025"-0.030" seems to show up again and again. So I place mine at 0.040" just to be sure no warpage occurs.
 
Sorry, I missed your location. A dime is 1.35mm thick. Since you are in Denmark, the analogy isn't really applicable ,anyway. A 50 0re or 1 krone is about 1.55mm , so it is a bit thicker than a dime. You are looking for about half to one fourth the thickness of a 50 ore.

My comment was mainly to correct the old, " The edge should be as thick as a dime" post. In the old days of carbon steel knives and with less HT control, 1mm or so was a good rule of thumb. Today, around half the thickness of a dime ( .5mm to .7mm) is the norm on carbon steel.

Stainless steel edges are usually about 1/4 the thickness of a dime ( about .3mm to .4mm) at HT.

Your blade will be 4mm (.15") thick at the spine. If worried about warp, the edge before HT should be at the most .75mm (.030"). A full flat grind (FFG) would be the best choice for such thick stock.

Your current edge of 1mm ( .040") at HT is OK, but you will have much more grinding to do post HT to thin the blade down.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Sorry, I missed your location. A dime is 1.35mm thick. Since you are in Denmark, the analogy isn't really applicable ,anyway. A 50 0re or 1 krone is about 1.55mm , so it is a bit thicker than a dime. You are looking for about half to one fourth the thickness of a 50 ore.

My comment was mainly to correct the old, " The edge should be as thick as a dime" post. In the old days of carbon steel knives and with less HT control, 1mm or so was a good rule of thumb. Today, around half the thickness of a dime ( .5mm to .7mm) is the norm on carbon steel.

Stainless steel edges are usually about 1/4 the thickness of a dime ( about .3mm to .4mm) at HT.

Your blade will be 4mm (.15") thick at the spine. If worried about warp, the edge before HT should be at the most .75mm (.030"). A full flat grind (FFG) would be the best choice for such thick stock.

Your current edge of 1mm ( .040") at HT is OK, but you will have much more grinding to do post HT to thin the blade down.
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Thank you for the clearification! Nice! All the conver between inch and mm sometimes lead to errors and typos.

Anyway you are right, maybe I should go a bit thinner before HT so the post HT is a bit easier on my old knife maker friend :-)


I have searched and searched and I simply can't find any steel thickness around 0.275"+ in CPM S110V. Where the heck can I find this steel in this thickness range?? Please advice or am I looking for "wonderland" here?

Anyway, I'm locked on CPM S110V or RWL-34 as my starting stock as this RWL-34 is readily available in the desired thickness.

But I have a questions, what is the ideal hardness for RWL-34 and CPM S110V without chipping/breaking the blade if I drop it on a concrete floor?

Some say 59-60RC for RWL-34 but from others say as high as 62-63RC and for CPM S110V I've seen as high as 64RC.


My knife has only a 1" blade so should I go for high RC and brittle or low RC and tough for such a compact small blade? Love to hear your feedback folks :-)
 
Ok guys.

I have now finished my CAD and need some input. I might have done some catastrophic failure before sending this to CNC. So all inputs are welcome regarding geometry.

http://sixhundredwings.wixsite.com/sixhundredwings

The Top knife is CPM S110V with thefollowing data

Thickness 0.20"
Primary angle: 36 degree inclusive (cutting edge yes?)
Secondary angle: 24 degree inclusive
Grind: Flat Grind


The bottom knife is RWL-34 (CPM154Cm equilavant?)
Thickness 0.27"
Primary angle: 38 degree inclusive (cutting edge yes?)
Secondary angle: 24 degree inclusive
Grind: Flat Grind

I have change on both knives the pre-Heat Treatment edge to 0.0156" (4mm).

Any comments? Angles too small, too big, too medium etc.?
 
Hengelo_77 said:
interesting blades
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Yes it is a combination of Karambit and P'kal knife style. After a lot of research and practice I noticed P'kal has a much more gross motor dynamic vs karambit which in my book translates to more efficient real life combat. Much like Wing Tsun and Krav Maga where the KM is much more gross motor. I believe gross motor is much easier for the average to master and the more precise motor skills is much more difficult to master but has its own pros that can be pretty amazing once mastered.

So I designed my blade with the ring from karambit so the knife is quickly positioned and gives me a non-slip and secure grip. Edge reversed and inward for maximum ripping and puncture power. I like it a lot! I originally purchased a custom made blade from BangTang knives. But the Pikal's grip was too short. And after awhile I discovered that the blade doesn't need to be that big at all. And then from that point I started out to design my own blade.

So what you see is actually a blend of BangTang's Pikal + Bastinelli Kalinau's Karambit merged with Max Venom's compact size, except that my knife's ring is for index finger and not the middle finger like the one found on Max Venom. The ring serves only one purpose, to keep the blade in place hence the small profile.
 
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