First Knife WIP

Joined
May 9, 2012
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82
So with the help of the incredibly knowledgeable Stacy I started working on my first knife. After a few design ideas we came up with this one and I'm very happy with it.

The knife is cut from S35VN and I think it was about 1/16in thick. The OAL length is 6" with a 2 1/4" blade.


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Stacy started the bevel and then I started sanding.

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I'm up to 220grit but I see some scratches still on the blade... Should I drop down in grit to get them out and work back up?

Please feel free to let me know what you think
 
If those scratches are from the lower grits then I would go back down. I was getting this problem ALL the time and had to keep dropping the grit down and start all over again, what I found helped a lot is using WD-40 as a lubricant which helped make sure I was not getting really deep scratches.
 
I would drop down to 120 and sand lengthwise. When all the opposing scratches are gone go back to 220 and sand at an angle to the 120 scratches. When they are all gone move to 320 or 400. Keep alternating the direction with each grit change until you get to the finish you desire. If you don't already have arrangements for heat treating it I will do it for you if you like. Since it is your first knife all you have to pay is return shipping. That is a good design and should last you many years once finished. Hope this helps and have fun.
 
I was able to get some of the scratches out but I'm afraid of doing to much because the blade is already very thin and I'm not sure if i should take it much further before heat treat
 
The bevels were started on a 120 grit belt. Use the 220 and sand it down until the biger scratches are gone. Then take the blade to 400 grit and look it over well. Any scratches left will be a bi!@h to get out after HT. IIRC, the blade was .100" thick stock. The distal taper makes it thinner toward the tip. Don't work about it being thin, that is a short blade and a strong steel. Try and avoid getting the edge sharp. If it does, sand it dull with a few strokes of 220 grit paper at 90° to the edge.

Darren is a great guy, and he will do a good job of the HT on S35VN. This steel will make a super sharp and useful knife. As Darren said, this knife will last a long time if cared for. S35VN with cryo at Rc60 will be a great cutter.

In the pack of sandpaper I sent, there are many grits. Normally, you double the grit each change. So 60/120/220/400/800/1500/2500 would be a normal progression. The in between sizes can be used to drop back a bit if there is a small scratch not out. Say a scratch shows up when the 400 grit is smooth, and you don't really want to go back to 220. Use the 280 or 320 grit. Also, when working out a scratch, DO THE WHOLE BEVEL. Don't just work the scratch, or you will make a dip in the bevel. This will show up as a ripple in the blade when it gets sanded higher. At each grit, sand the entire bevel until it is dead flat and all lower grit scratches are gone.

After the bevels are sanded at each grit, Don't forget to sand the tang and ricasso area with that grit. Take extra care to keep them flat.

Hand sanding isn't a fast process. take your time and work in doable length sessions. Take a break when tired or frustrated. Don't expect, or try, for the blade to be sanded and ready for HT in one evening.

Using a lubricant when sanding is a good technique. It can be some motor oil wiped on with a fingertip, a spray of WD-40, or water with some dish soap. Some folks use a spray bottle to spritz the water on the blade. I use a pan of water with a teaspoon of dish soap in it. I dip the block of sandpaper in the pan, drain it for a second, and then sand. Lubrication makes the sanding smoother and speeds things up. When changing to the next finer grit, be sure to clean everything up well. You don't want some stray grit making a scratch in your smooth sanded blade later on. Especially at the lower grits, change the tape on the blade. There is coarse grit stuck to it at the edge. That can come loose later and make you say bad words.
 
Been working for the past few night on getting the scratches out. I only have a few left and was thinking about dropping to 180grit because these seem pretty deep...

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sure wish my first knife would have looked so good, I filed and sanded and filed and sanded, wound up with a dagger/letter opener with a crappy knuckle guard ;0)
 
sure wish my first knife would have looked so good, I filed and sanded and filed and sanded, wound up with a dagger/letter opener with a crappy knuckle guard ;0)

I was lucky enough to have some help. I do feel like I messed up a bit though because the nice bevel and plunge line Stacy stated for me doesn't look as good as it used to =/ ... I'll just have to finish it the best I can and keep practicing at it :D
 
........ I'll just have to finish it the best I can and keep practicing at it :D

Th most important words for a new maker are right here.
A first knife may not be perfect, but if it is your best effort....it is a good job. If you make the next one better...you learned something.

Take your time when sanding and use smooth and straight strokes. Don't "saw" back and forth, it will round the bevel a bit. Stroke in one direction spine to edge, lift the block, return, and stroke again. Smooooth and straaaaight each time. Often the look of things changes in the early grits, but comes back to looking right after the tang and ricasso are sanded again and everything is at 400 grit.


TheWeatherman was the king of taking his time. He sanded on his first knife for six months. We all thought he would end up with a mini.....but what he ended up with was a really nice knife.
 
HT and cryo done. Handles fitted. Shipping out tomorrow AM.
 

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Had a chance to do some work yesterday and today. Made some progress and got it up to 1500
 
I'll just have to finish it the best I can and keep practicing at it :D

I agree with Stacy's reading of this part of your post. I'm going to say this, and I'm not talking about you, I am saying it to all new makers. I fall victim to it too. Never say good enough for my first knife. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I have scratches on the tang of my second knife that are there because I said good enough. Do your best, but make sure it's your best, not just "good enough".

Great looking knife, btw. I like the shape and it is a great pattern. I can't wait to see what happens with it next!


Stacy, I've had problems going from 400-800 and 1000-2000 grits. Too much of a jump sometimes? Depends on the steel? Opinions please?

Eta: Op, if that question is too far off topic, email me and I'll delete it.
 
So I took the knife up to 2500 and glued up the scales. Last night I started shaping them up. Hope to get the handles finished this weekend.

Some pics of the progress on the handles so far...
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Nice job man, now I REALLY need to get started...need to mow a lawn tomorrow so I can buy myself some steel to start playing with...
 
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