Fixed Angle System That Can Do Sword Length Blades?

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

Hi Ya'll,

Are there any fixed angle systems out there that can handle from small folders to sword length blades? I was looking at the KakBritva which evidently could but they aren't even listed on Gritomatic anymore.. Likely due to the situation in the Ukraine. Is there anything else out there?

This would be my first fixed angle system. I don't mind spending if it can cover all my needs. I dont need the ability to sharpen tools like scissors etc. if that makes any difference.

Thank you!

 

[Spey]

EdgePro allows pretty much any length blade, as the angle of the stone arm is fixed whilst the blade is not allowing user to move freely down the length of the blade.

EDIT 7-28-22: To add
I find the EdgePro capable of a number of sharpening jobs that many other 'systems' would have difficulty with.
Example Below: a pair of hawks that I recently ground secondary bevels at 15dps (note one is much thicker primary grind geometry).

 

[cudgee]

Yes the Edge Pro allows you to slide the blade along doing it in sections. Holding it steady may be an issue though.

 

[scottc3]

KME has an magnetic Axe sharpener that uses KME stone holder. I bought for another project but noted it would work on one of the kids less expensive swords.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

EdgePro allows pretty much any length blade, as the angle of the stone arm is fixed whilst the blade is not allowing user to move freely down the length of the blade.

EDIT 7-28-22: To add
I find the EdgePro capable of a number of sharpening jobs that many other 'systems' would have difficulty with.
Example Below: a pair of hawks that I recently ground secondary bevels at 15dps (note one is much thicker primary grind geometry).
View attachment 1883287

View attachment 1883288

View attachment 1883289

Awesome! Thanks for the additional information! Great work and beautiful tomahawks!

KME has an magnetic Axe sharpener that uses KME stone holder. I bought for another project but noted it would work on one of the kids less expensive swords.

Interesting, I will have to look into that one too. Thank you!



I probably should have mentioned in my OP, but if there is a system that can use readily availible non propietary stones that would definitely be an advantage.

 

[scottc3]

use readily availible non propietary stones that would definitely be an advantage

3rd party stone holders over at Gritomatic hold Edgepro form factor and sharpmaker rods in KME. I have both first and second gen aluminum.

 

[Spey]

I probably should have mentioned in my OP, but if there is a system that can use readily availible non propietary stones that would definitely be an advantage.

I have used the EdgePro for a number of years now (along with other options ...), and have yet to purchase or use a proprietary and/or aftermarket EdgePro stone.
I have taken generic aluminum and cut to size based on stone dimensions and glued stone(s) to blank(s) when using thin stones.
I have also used stones (like generic 2"x6" diamond plate(s), stones, etc. without an aluminum backer plate.
I also use my old 1"x4" diamond plates that came with my DMT Aligner Kit that I bought 20 some years ago, DC-4 stone, etc.
One of the convenient things about an E.P. is the multitude of options for the user without buying a bunch of stuff (stones, attachments, etc.).
Additionally, it is super easy to set up for stones of varying thickness during a progression matching the same angle as a previous stone of different thickness (aka - the drill collar stop mod) without the need for measuring angles, etc.

Understand, I am not shilling for the manufacturer - however I do believe a lot of folks do not realize the versatility of this kit.
The one downfall (as cudgee mentioned above) is that some folks have a hard time with the fact the blade positioning is active and by the user.
This is also part of what makes it unique, as the user can adjust as needed (like for example how a typical blades geometry changes between the belly and the tip because the blade stock gets progressively thicker approaching the spine), or sharpening long blades like machete, swords, etc.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

3rd party stone holders over at Gritomatic hold Edgepro form factor and sharpmaker rods in KME. I have both first and second gen aluminum.

I have used the EdgePro for a number of years now (along with other options ...), and have yet to purchase or use a proprietary and/or aftermarket EdgePro stone.
I have taken generic aluminum and cut to size based on stone dimensions and glued stone(s) to blank(s) when using thin stones.
I have also used stones (like generic 2"x6" diamond plate(s), stones, etc. without an aluminum backer plate.
I also use my old 1"x4" diamond plates that came with my DMT Aligner Kit that I bought 20 some years ago, DC-4 stone, etc.
One of the convenient things about an E.P. is the multitude of options for the user without buying a bunch of stuff (stones, attachments, etc.).
Additionally, it is super easy to set up for stones of varying thickness during a progression matching the same angle as a previous stone of different thickness (aka - the drill collar stop mod) without the need for measuring angles, etc.

Understand, I am not shilling for the manufacturer - however I do believe a lot of folks do not realize the versatility of this kit.
The one downfall (as cudgee mentioned above) is that some folks have a hard time with the fact the blade positioning is active and by the user.
This is also part of what makes it unique, as the user can adjust as needed (like for example how a typical blades geometry changes between the belly and the tip because the blade stock gets progressively thicker approaching the spine), or sharpening long blades like machete, swords, etc.

Great information from ya'll both, which I appreciate very much! This will be my first fixed angle system and the options are almost overwhelming. It is hard to sort through it all, especially going just by product descriptions and pictures.

The benefits of a fixed angle system are clear to me..accuracy in acheiving consistent and repeatable angles is huge. The risk of non symetrical results and guesstimated angles drives me crazy when thinking of sharpening by hand. Of course there are times were sharpening by hand is the only or even the best option and that is fine. Knowing that precision, consistency and nearly perfect symetry is easily achievable with proper tooling/jigs/fixtures makes it hard to accept anything else in regards to manufacture and/or sharpening though.

I am a believer in "buy once, cry once" so spending on a system that can produce the quality results I'm looking for and cover most if not all of my needs (folders to sword length blades) is a no brainer to me personally and will save time and money in the long run imo.

 

[scottc3]

If I was looking at a guided kit today, I would look at Gritomatic's selection, Very very nice use of materials, and well engineered.
I'd be looking at one with a table that has magnetic option to take on and off or turn on n off. I would only get tool-less clamp systems. In my opinion, the only USA made guided system that matches materials and engineering of various Gritomatic sharpeners is WickedEdge.
For just the swords, I really think the KME Axe sharpener deserves a hard look, take some measurements and see where stone would lay. If math works use a sharpie to locate axe sharpener as you move across edge maybe... You could get an EP used and fabricate a magnetic stay for the stone holder...

 

[000Robert]

Some Wicked Edge users put two or three WE vises inline for sharpening/profiling long knives and swords.

 

[scottc3]

Some Wicked Edge users put two or three WE vises inline for sharpening/profiling long knives and swords.

LOL, though I could see that for higher end or functional museum swords, aka kinetic art...

 

[000Robert]

LOL, though I could see that for higher end or functional museum swords, aka kinetic art...

He said that he doesn't mind spending if it covers his needs.

 

[Boattale]

A worksharp doesn't care if a blade is 3" or 3'.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

A worksharp doesn't care if a blade is 3" or 3'.

I'm sure the worksharp can do pretty much any length blade, I don't like that it is powered though for one. I feel like one could easily get carried away quickly if not mindful of how much material is being removed. Personally I would rather have more control at the expense of more time and effort. My goal would be the minimum material removal necessary to get the results I'd be looking for. But then again, I always choose a file over a dremel or box wrench over impact gun. I also am not convinced that the worksharp really can achieve idiot proof accuracy and consistency because even though the belt angle is set, you are still feeding it the blade by hand. Inconsistency in presentation will certainly make for inconsistent results and that will likely be magnified the longer the blade.

I was set on the KAK Britva because I know it can sharpen anything from a small folder to a full length sword, without having to reset the blade in the clamps (other than to flip sides) and fully support long blades along the entire length. I bs'd too long and now it seems to be unobtanium. All the systems I've seen have a very short or narrow (comparitively) clamping range that appears (from pictures etc.) to only be able to support a small section of larger blades at a time which is why I started this thread. I will be looking more into the systems these gentlemen suggested and appreciate the help. Thank you!

ETA: I was able to find the KME magnetic axe system, although not at Gritomatic. I must say it is a completely different set up than I had imagined (I was picturing an attachment to the standard KME knife system, not a system that attaches directly to the axe head or blade), but it looks like a pretty slick setup and is reasonably priced as well. Attaching directly to the blade should allow for any length if moved along. As long as the sharpening angle can be maintained, it appears as though it could work. I may pick it up and give it a shot. Worst case, I use it on axes and tomahawks exclusively..which I do also value having symetrical, accurate edges on.

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

EdgePro allows pretty much any length blade, as the angle of the stone arm is fixed whilst the blade is not allowing user to move freely down the length of the blade.

EDIT 7-28-22: To add
I find the EdgePro capable of a number of sharpening jobs that many other 'systems' would have difficulty with.
Example Below: a pair of hawks that I recently ground secondary bevels at 15dps (note one is much thicker primary grind geometry).
View attachment 1883287

View attachment 1883288

View attachment 1883289

Spey, do you happen to have any pics of the tomahawks as set up in the EdgePro?

 

[Spey]

Spey, do you happen to have any pics of the tomahawks as set up in the EdgePro?

No, sorry.
But, simple 3-step explanation to anyone with EP experience.
Read 1a-3a before any of the b) descriptions.

1) Strip the table of any attachments (scissor attachment maybe 3b).
2) a) Lay head on table, bit laying on front edge of EP table.
b) Position bit L/R based on toe/belly/heal geometry (symmetric vs. asymmetric) like how you place knife on table.
3) a) Place block/strip of wood (or ...) under bit such that centerline of bit is parallel to table (painters tape).
b) (I would imagine you could place/clamp any type of riser to front of table)

Set your stone arm height & sharpen, adjust for varied thickness stones with collar-stop just like with any knife, or ...

I hope the b) parts aren't too confusing. Seems like second nature when it's in front of you. Easy to do segmented bevels that easily roll into controlled convex options (the FH in photos above was initially sharpened this way, but I took it back to a single bevel for field comparison to the HBH).

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

No, sorry.
But, simple 3-step explanation to anyone with EP experience.
Read 1a-3a before any of the b) descriptions.

1) Strip the table of any attachments (scissor attachment maybe 3b).
2) a) Lay head on table, bit laying on front edge of EP table.
b) Position bit L/R based on toe/belly/heal geometry (symmetric vs. asymmetric) like how you place knife on table.
3) a) Place block/strip of wood (or ...) under bit such that centerline of bit is parallel to table (painters tape).
b) (I would imagine you could place/clamp any type of riser to front of table)

Set your stone arm height & sharpen, adjust for varied thickness stones with collar-stop just like with any knife, or ...

I hope the b) parts aren't too confusing. Seems like second nature when it's in front of you. Easy to do segmented bevels that easily roll into controlled convex options (the FH in photos above was initially sharpened this way, but I took it back to a single bevel for field comparison to the HBH).

If I'm picturing this correctly, the axe head is set up on a table in front of (not actually on or directly to) the EdgePro. The axe is then raised to allow the EdgePro's arm to reach beyond the EdgePro's base and contact the cutting edge of the axe without interference?

 

[000Robert]

A worksharp doesn't care if a blade is 3" or 3'.

After reading this article and reading posts from people here on the forum, I decided that it's better not to use a dry belt grinder on my knives. I just use my Worksharp for fitting steel parts and such. I don't use it on my knives.

 

[cbwx34]

Hi Ya'll,

Are there any fixed angle systems out there that can handle from small folders to sword length blades? I was looking at the KakBritva which evidently could but they aren't even listed on Gritomatic anymore.. Likely due to the situation in the Ukraine. Is there anything else out there?

This would be my first fixed angle system. I don't mind spending if it can cover all my needs. I dont need the ability to sharpen tools like scissors etc. if that makes any difference.

Thank you!

How about a Tormek with a Platform Jig...

 

[AlongTheRazorsEdge]

How about a Tormek with a Platform Jig...

Definitely pretty cool, both figuratively and literally being water cooled ( :

This is probably way too involved for me, my skill level and availible space. Being powered opens up the possibility of screwing things up very quickly and you are still feeding by hand, increasing the chances of human error imo. I like the systems that clamp the work piece at zero and are fixed angle using a telescoping arm because you are eliminating many potential points of human error. Basically, idiot proof (or as close to it) is best for this idiot (me) lol.