TwistedHollow
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2019
- Messages
- 102
I have a TOPS BOB and really like it. It will do everything your looking for
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
my goto is the 14c28n ruike jager, amazing...
Another vote for the Jager. 14C28N is a good stainless...
You're correct I mistyped it should have been Battle Horse Knives. LT Wright and Battle Horse knives came out of Blind Horse KnivesI thought Blind Horse went out of business long time ago… ?
I am curious on your experiences on why you don't like VG10 in this role?1, I'd say skip the S1. VG10 is not a good steel for outdoors, especially by today's comparison.
The only reason Fallkniven keep using VG10 on their base models is...well...Did you notice ALL their knife steels come from that ONE factory in Japan? I don't know what contract they have but IMO this will be the one factor that eventually kills this brand. I use to love Fallkniven, but I've gradually sold off my entire FK collection.
I am curious on your experiences on why you don't like VG10 in this role?
That's fair.VG10 was introduced as a good chef knife steel choice, and it was very good for that purpose.
However, as an outdoor fixed blade steel, it will chip.
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You can easily see that it's inferior to even S35VN. Which is understandable for a non-PM stainless steel.
The 3-layer structure used by Fallkniven will make sure the knife does not completely break in half. However, it offers no extra protection for the cutting edge.
For an outdoor knife, unless I'm using it on the beach / fishing boats (which requires LC200N / MagnaCut / Vanax), I'd go for AEB-L or 1095 all day every day, with a Fallkniven DC4 or CC4 in hand (which is my favorite Fallkniven product now). These steels are much tougher, and generally tend to roll rather than chip even when they do take edge damage, which is much easier to fix in the field.
That's fair.
I have a few, and the factory edge did indeed chip. After a sharpening though, I have not had that happen again and find the steel works fine for my purposes.
I should try one of those sharpeners. I keep hearing good things about them.
Understood, thanks for the heads up.Well I'm not sure if they're the best portable sharpener out there in terms of performance, I'm almost sure the Work sharp guided field sharpener will do better given the guided angles and ceramic rod and built-in stropping leather and etc, although I never owned the Work sharp one.
However I'm pretty sure DC4 / CC4 are the best in terms of compactness. And since the best sharpener is the one you have at hand, I'd say for me they're the best.
Be aware though, if you decided to try them out, you may want to "wear-in" the DC4 / CC4 for a bit with some cheap knife you don't care no more, before actually using them. Even the attached instruction states that the product becomes smooth and usable after a few sharpening attempts. The first few strikes on them are very, very rough and will likely destroy the edge instead of sharpening it.
I've used my F1 quite a bit outdoors, camping, whittling shavings, light firewood splitting (by hand, no batoning), field dressing and processing game (moose, back bear) and haven't noticed any chipping. It is a bit difficult to get the burr off when sharpening, compared to high carbon steels, but it holds an edge longer. Haven't had any corrosion problems either.VG10 was introduced as a good chef knife steel choice, and it was very good for that purpose.
However, as an outdoor fixed blade steel, it will chip.
![]()
You can easily see that it's inferior to even S35VN. Which is understandable for a non-PM stainless steel.
The 3-layer structure used by Fallkniven will make sure the knife does not completely break in half. However, it offers no extra protection for the cutting edge.
For an outdoor knife, unless I'm using it on the beach / fishing boats (which requires LC200N / MagnaCut / Vanax), I'd go for AEB-L or 1095 all day every day, with a Fallkniven DC4 or CC4 in hand (which is my favorite Fallkniven product now). These steels are much tougher, and generally tend to roll rather than chip even when they do take edge damage, which is much easier to fix in the field.
I've used my F1 quite a bit outdoors, camping, whittling shavings, light firewood splitting (by hand, no batoning), field dressing and processing game (moose, back bear) and haven't noticed any chipping. It is a bit difficult to get the burr off when sharpening, compared to high carbon steels, but it holds an edge longer. Haven't had any corrosion problems either.
I would get a Morakniv and save the money.