Flash your anvils

Thanks for the info guys...that makes sense! Seems to me the easiest way to build up mass would be to build a sturdy box and then fill it with sand with a steel plate on top. It'd be easy to raise/lower the anvil height by adding or removing sand and once it settled, the steel plate wouldnt allow the anvil to dig down into the sand as you pounded it....

Im always trying to think of ways to improve things, but maybe the best bet is still just the biggest anvil you can find on a good, sturdy stump.
 
Here's mine. It's made of three mill rollers stacked on each other. They're made of H13. I have a HF cast anvil, but this one has better rebound.

anvilhammer.jpg
 
That would work, Dave, if you very firmly afix the anvil to the plate on top of the sand. The key is preventing the anvil from skidding around at all. There used to be (maybe still is) a commercial company that sells anvil bases which are essentially exactly that, a large metal box you fill with sand, and bolt the anvil to the plate ontop of the sand.

My first anvil stand was just a trashcan full of sand, and yes, the anvil will dig it's way down at odd angles without a plate underneath it to distribute the force.

Personally I prefer large stumps / heavy blocks of wood, both for astetics and practicality in use for holding tools and the like. I'm on the lookout for any large heavy stumps if you know of any in the mass/ri area that could be picked up =P Laminated 2x12s and such are too light, but all that I've had available. They make a nice portable base, to throw your shop in the back of your truck, but arent good for a more permanant location.
 
Hello People,

I've been forging for a couple of years now. Got my first anvil, a #50 cast iron one, glad I did, I'd rather ding up a cheap anvil like that one instead of dinging up something that cost a whole lot more.

That being said, this is a #120 Peter Wright that is mounted on an Oak stump, prior to that, I had a home made anvil, #75, 4160 piece that I heat treated at IG's, and before that I had the #50 cast iron on this piece of Oak.



And this is my #100 Peter Wright, which is mounted on a base made from some scrap steel that I got from work. This anvil mount weighs about #125, The piping was from welders qualification test which I radiographed for acceptance to ASME code, there were two tests which I welded together, then to the base plate, filled the pipe with sand, to help keep the ringing down, then welded the top onto it. As you can see I just used some C clamps to secure the hold down to the stand, really don't want to start welding attachments onto the anvil stand.



Larry T
 
Joe, Did you just use the Liquid Nails where the anvil joins the 4X4's? Both the anvils I have set up at this time rang horrible before I went with the construction adhisive althought I used the adhisive to hold the bases together as well. On my Made in Sweden anvil the base is stacked 1' square 3/4" plywood pieces that were glued and then nailed individually with ring shank nails. Then I glued the anvil to the base. With the Trenton that I set up over the weekend it sets on 6X6's that run vertically. The 6X6's were glued and then bolted together. After I had the base made I then glued the anvil and the lag bolted it to the 6X6's. I went with the cheapest construction adhisive Home Depot had and I'm not sure if I had gone with maybe Liquid Nails it would have done more. The Trenton will let out alittle ring if struck on the horn or heal but the noise for both when struck on the face is a low thud.

I only used the liquid nails to hold the 4x4's together.I couldnt find a suitable stump when I upsized anvils so I just "nailed" some rough cut dunnage from work to the stump.Going from 100 lbs to 155 lbs made a big difference as far as the base goes.
IIRC Ron Reil puts a sheet of lead under his anvils to keep the ringing down.
 
Thanks for the info guys...that makes sense! Seems to me the easiest way to build up mass would be to build a sturdy box and then fill it with sand with a steel plate on top. It'd be easy to raise/lower the anvil height by adding or removing sand and once it settled, the steel plate wouldnt allow the anvil to dig down into the sand as you pounded it....

Im always trying to think of ways to improve things, but maybe the best bet is still just the biggest anvil you can find on a good, sturdy stump.

Thanks for all the different ideas for mounting anvils. I think I will try some version of this idea because it might be the easiest and cheapest way to create a base with the most mass.

It gives a whole new meaning to the phrase, "Go pound sand!". Ok...I will.
 
The one problem I have with my anvil floating on a sandbox setup, is that if I do a whole lot of horn work, or a lot of hardy work then the anvil will develop a tilt as one end of the anvil settles a bit in the sand. Next time I'd make the wood base the anvil mounts to closer to the length of the anvil so I'm not hammering beyond the end of the base. Live and learn.
 
Bah, no fair. Power hammers are cheating! (not that I wouldnt mind cheating if I had the money !) I recognize a little giant anvil when I see one.
 
I hate power hammers, especially the one I don't have
 
i have my 100 lbs TFS on a base of criss-crossed PT 4 x 4's with layers of 3/4inch plywood top and bottom. It dances across the floor in my gagrage, but once i get my shop built, it will be secured.
 
OMG Now thats what Im talking 'bout!!!:D RIDEM YAHHHH!

hi kerry

ear muffs are great..but add a big magnet under the horn or tail to stop the ringing....ps i am one of the few that forge with a north half mask with hepa filters..coal and propane i use can be nasty on your lungs

may your anvil never get cold

black dragon
damascus bladesmith
 
I tripped over this one in an antique store....I had to buy it :D
155.jpg

The ratchet straps came off after the liquid nails set up.

way to go!! bigger is always better when it comes to anvils..I have a 350 lb or bigger one myself (can't find any markings and not been weighed yet but i will soon) ive had stashed its not as pretty as my smaller ones but its in good shape and at $500.- i could not turn it down..it sits on a hand cart so i can move it later lol..
 
As far as the base goes, For the most part the break between the base of the anvil and whatever base the anvil is sitting on is enough to stop any actual reflection of force through that transition in materials. However you want a massive base (massive as in mass, not just 'large') so that the anvil itself does not move at all, and thus transfers all the force back to the hammer blow, and not into translational force moving the anvil / base.

A concrete platform is a very bad idea, as a good anvil will essentially strike it's base with an equal amount of force to what you hit the top of it with, and you will crumble / shatter the concrete in a very short amount of time.

The ring is all energy which is not being sent back into the hammer blow in the first place, so dampening it does not have any real apreciable effect upon the performance of your anvil. So you are correct, a sturdy base does help preserve the transfer of force back into the hammer blow, but not 'directly' as having a more massive anvil would, but indirectly, by helping to preserve and controll the direction of work being done. (work in the physics sense, force times distance)

EDIT: To add. It is possible with an anvil with a nice flat bottom, to get a good amount of added force rebound by placing the anvil ontop of another solid object with good rebound (ie another large block of steel) if the contact surface is regular enough. The return isnt nearly as good as just having a larger anvil, but there can be some benefit.


a proper ring can tell one if its a good sound anvil but other than that it can hurt your ears as we all know...just get a super strong magnet and put it on a anvil will stop the ring...i keep my anvil stump on dirt also

n/e tn
 
hows my home boy doing? getting cold in nb? lol

Wassup????????? The temperature has been above average.:thumbup: :D Today and tomorrow will be in the low 60's.:cool:
How are you doing on the top of your mountain????? When are you going to come visit your Ole Stomping Grounds??? If you ever head this way stop by your old neighborhood and we can make up some Damascus.
 
I shot some pics of my setup.The anvil is 120#. It sits on a 400# flat anvil. The base is 4X4s bolted together and it is on concrete blocks.The whole setup is about 600#.The chains are drawn tight by the bolts. Nothing moves.
Stacy

BTW, that is an 6" caulking vise behind the anvil.There is a post vise on the side,too.
 
One big advantage to using a round wood base is even with the anvil attached I can still tilt it on edge and barrel roll it around the shop very easily.
 
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