Flashlights for -$100?


I just received my prometheus beta-qr's from Jason's kickstarter campaign. A whole lotta light out of these little AAA torches. I think he is doing pre-orders now that the kickstarter has been completed.


Edit: oops. Didn't read your last post about the 200 lumens, but these are great.
 
As others have said:
Zebralight SC52w; about 3 inches; 500 Lumens with 14500 Li-on - 280 Lumens with AA - click on side of bulb fixture. $65

There is also a new 4" Zebralight - 1050 Lumens? $95

I am not a flashlight maven. The SC 52w was recommended on this forum - nice light.

Mike H.
 
For <$100 my 2 favorite lights are my quark QP2L-X burst mode and my Zebralight SC600w mk2 (tho the ZL's UI is "different" to say the least.

Also just got my wife a olight S15 (it included a 2xAA extender tube) for~ $40

I love my SC52w but the batterie life on high modes isn't enough for my needs.
 
The Streamlight ProTac 2L is a nice light that is close to your specs. You can find them for about $50 on average
 
Fenix LD12 with the XP-G2(R5) LED.....125 Lumens & 1xAA battery. I didn't think I would like the User Interface with the switch on the side, but it's great. I see many of the Fenix lights going to this type of operation. The switch on the tailcap turns the light on/off (with momentary if needed). The switch on the side runs it through the 4 levels of brightness. This light remembers the last brightness level it was operated at and will turn on at that level of brightness (I love that). Around $50.

Whatever you buy, look closely at the user interface. A nice beam and runtime mean nothing if you dislike the user interface. It's not like the good ole' days with the on/off switch!

I have went to AAs in all my lights. I have no need for 200+ lumens. The breakthroughs they are making with LEDs and lesser batteries such as the AA are amazing.
 
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Assuming battery type isn't restricted, runtimes aren't much concern, considering your lumen requirement and pocket-ability, I would opt for a Malkoff MDC SHO (single high output, about 300 lumens on a CR123). No multimode dance, and totally reliable (nothing comes close). Here is mine (not SHO, but multimode, everything else remains the same), with Sage 2 for size comparison.

image%252811%2529.jpeg
 
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Check out the Malkoff devices mdc and md2. Highly recommended
 
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Midget said:
Sunwayman V10R, well less than $100, high output (for the XM-L option) but easy accessible user interface. Use the power of RCR 123A's and you're set.

I've used the SWM M10/V10R form factor for more than 3 years - it's on keyring and I never leave home w/o it.
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I've got a V11R that I've been using for a couple of weeks now (with 16340's), and really like it.

I like the ability to adjust the brightness, and find the beam works really well for most of what I do.
 
I have a Fenix PD30 which is a great fantastic light, but for average edc I prefer the FourSevens Preon 1 or 2. I like the 1 better for length.
 
knolan said:
I'm assuming you mean the new H52w headlamp? If so, I just picked up one, and to say it's an impressive light would be an understatement...especially if good neutral tint is important to you. I already have the SC52 and SC52w and wanted this since it's essentially the headlamp version of these using almost the same wonderful UI & driver, except in this case the tint on the XM-L2 emitter in the H52w (which I assumed would be the same slightly yellowish/green 4400k tint as the SC52w), turned out to be one of the best neutral tints I've ever seen this side of the (CPF flashaholic's grail: Nichia 219)!

Very slight rose tint with NO undesirable green with big hotspot and huge spill beam pattern and...one of the best, almost w/o fault, of any single cell AA, Ni-MH, lithium primary, or 14500 LI-ion light I've owned...and I have a bunch. It's hard not to gush about this little headlamp (or 90degree angled EDC if you want) it's that good!


EDIT: To the OP...pocket size EDC to me means single cell CR123/16340 or AA/14500 lights. My current favorites are the (1) Zebralight SC52w, (2) Tie: Jetbeam RRT-01/Eagletac D25c...and distant 3rd place the Sunwayman VR11 all now updated with XM-L2 emitters and all capable of sub/1 to 3-lumen moonlight modes and well in excess of 500/600 lumens for short periods on max using Li-ions.
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May I ask why you put the Sunwayman V11R well back of the Jetbeam? I've had the RRT-01 for some time now, and while it's a nice light, I actually prefer the V11R for actual use. The fact that my RRT-01's beam looks like it's shining out of a green pond and the V11R has a very nice white tint may be a big part of that, though.
 
Mountainman38 said:
May I ask why you put the Sunwayman V11R well back of the Jetbeam? I've had the RRT-01 for some time now, and while it's a nice light, I actually prefer the V11R for actual use. The fact that my RRT-01's beam looks like it's shining out of a green pond and the V11R has a very nice white tint may be a big part of that, though.
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Actually I like the V11R...just not quite as much as the others I listed. No flashlight is perfect but it's just that I've had several of this particular Sunwayman platform with the V10R, V10R Ti+, and V11R (all essentially the same light with slight material/driver diff's) and all developed a rattle in the head after a few mos. with the reflector not being snug enough (used a small strip of Teflon tape to act as a shim to quiet it). Also after dropping it a few times the anno chipped off very easily, especially w/o a SS bezel like every other premium light in this class.

Further...all of mine in this series had a tint in the 6800k/7000k range that is a little too cool for my tastes, and as much as I liked the damped quality feel of the mag ring, sometimes it goes from damped...to spin freely w/o warning which always irritated me a little.

The RRT-01 is my fave IV mag ring format/light because for an EDC light one doesn't have to change hand positions like the V11R, 1. to switch on the clicky and 2., to adjust the output. Simply hold it in the handshake grip and turn the ring for light...and turn again for more light, and back again to off...can't get much simpler. The ring spins a little too freely, but that's my only nit to pick w/the RRT-01 Plus, I've dropped a few of these on concrete several times and it hasn't even a scratch. Funny that you mention the green tint on your RRT-01. I've had the original RRT-01 (XM-L) and it's corporate twin, the Niteye EYE 10, as well as the newest updated RRT-01 w/XM-L2 and although all are cool tinted lights, none (of my copies...the tint lottery being what it is) exhibited much green at all, other than the slight drab green in the hot spot that most CREE XM-L's typically produce. In fact the new RRT-01 w/XM-L2 is one of the best cool tinted XM-L2 lights I've seen, almost neutral at approx. 5500k... not much cooler than a favorite of mine, the XM-L2 T6 3C 5000K *(which is considered neutral these days, but a few years back would have been described as a true "premium white").
 
knolan,

Thanks for the info. I guess the tint lottery is a hard one to win -- just keep buying until you get one you like!

Do you use rechargeable cells? If so, do they drain on their own for you? I find that both my 14500's and 16340's will need charging after sitting for a day or two after being fully charged. Maybe I need better batteries -- it would be nice to know my cells are at full charge when I grab them after sitting for a few days.

I've had the misfortune of dropping my RRT-01 a couple of times, and it's gotten really dinged up from hitting the pavement. The last time it happened I had to get out my Sharpmaker rods and smooth the edges down, so they wouldn't cut holes in my pockets.
 
Mountainman38 said:
knolan,

Thanks for the info. I guess the tint lottery is a hard one to win -- just keep buying until you get one you like!

Do you use rechargeable cells? If so, do they drain on their own for you? I find that both my 14500's and 16340's will need charging after sitting for a day or two after being fully charged. Maybe I need better batteries -- it would be nice to know my cells are at full charge when I grab them after sitting for a few days.

I've had the misfortune of dropping my RRT-01 a couple of times, and it's gotten really dinged up from hitting the pavement. The last time it happened I had to get out my Sharpmaker rods and smooth the edges down, so they wouldn't cut holes in my pockets.
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No problem! Yeah...in terms of tint, some manufacturers are more consistent than others, or if there's a light you're interested in, most popular online dealers will usually hand pick one to one's tint preference.

I do use Li-ion's almost exclusively (14500, 18650, 16340 & 18350's) and would say that any half-way decent quality Li-ion should maintain at least 90% of nominal (3.7v) for a few months or even much longer. Not wise to buy budget Li-ion's...good rule of thumb is to stick to any brand using a Sanyo/Panasonic cell (AR and Redilast are always quality brands from reputable dealers ie: not eBay or obscure China dealers...rebranding junk cells is rampant). Just remember that Li-ions like shallow discharges (extends charge cycles) and not charging them over 4.2v hot off the charger. In fact, ideally you can mitigate most concerns w/Li-ion aging and safety by only charging them to between 3.85v and 4v for storage although you sacrifice some run time.

Just buy quality brands (batteries, and chargers utilizing cc/cv termination) and use a voltmeter before after charging, don't charge over 4.2v, and you should get several hundred cycles out of good Li-ion's w/o endangering your family or burning down your house.
 
I have been using an AA stainless Countycomm light for a while. I think my daughter got me one of the copper CR123 lights from them for Christmas. Can't wait to try it out. Both of these are half of 100.00
 
4sevens or Nitecore offer multiple versions in your price range with awesome bright, even light. All of my lights from both brands light up my entire back yard and all under $70. What else do you need?
 
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