- Joined
- Oct 31, 1998
- Messages
- 156
Does Carley or any other company make a high performance bulb for the 2AA Mini Mag?
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Dan Harris
danharris@ibm.net
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Dan Harris
danharris@ibm.net
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Flashlights?
- Thread starter Bartman
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 4,842
Ralf,
Can you tell us a little bit about the Nightrider lights? How big and heavy are they? How bright compared to (say) a 6Z or 9Z? Thanks!
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
Can you tell us a little bit about the Nightrider lights? How big and heavy are they? How bright compared to (say) a 6Z or 9Z? Thanks!
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
- Joined
- Oct 7, 1998
- Messages
- 1,838
Well, shucks. Color me chagrined. You guys know about some toys that I don't. I CAN'T FREAKING BELIEVE IT!! Here I thought I was on the cutting edge.
Ralf; excellent sites on Krills and other stuff, especially the Photon Night Rider.
Smoke (and others); I would be glad to send you Carley lamps. They sell to the public, but the minimum order is $50, and takes a few weeks. Frankly since the expensive xenon ones only cost about $3.50, I have been giving them to people. I get them wholesale from Carley, having been dealing with them for over 15 years.
CARLEY LAMP FAQ's; What is a CL? Well, it is a lamp (bulb if you wish; I have no idea why Carley calls them lamps) which is pressurized with an inert noble gas (krypton or xenon),in a container made of quartz. This is in contrast to a standard glass PR lamp which is a vacuum with a tungsten filament in it.
There are advantages to this method; the W (tungsten) tends to evaporate from the filament in a standard incandescent light bulb (OK, lamp), and deposit on the glass surface, dimming the light. In the CL, the W tends to get redeposited on the filament itself. Further, substituting quartz for glass allows much higher operating temperatures, and thus more light output. The fact that the filament is in an inert gas also helps produce light (remember fluorescent lights? Not the same, but similar).
Can I use a CL in any flashlight? Sure. Only problem is, that if it is a cheap light, the reflector will probably melt and bubble over time. Even a MagLite reflector needs changing every 5 years or so, IF you are using the HiCap NiCd and the high amperage krypton lamps. You are probably OK with alkaline cells and krypton or xenon lamps, which run much cooler. Certainly MagLites are. Lenses don't need replacement, except for when they get scratched.
What is this xenon lamp? It is the same type of lamp as the krypton ones, just filled with a different noble gas. It is more efficient, and will yield about 30-50% more light, without affecting battery life.
Can you use xenon lamps with rechargeable batteries? Nope. Xenon lamps are for alkaline cells only. There is one peculiar exeption to this rule, discussed below, for emergencies only.
How about xenon lamps for AA and AAA size batteries? Nope. Don't make them (yet?). Actually there is some peculiar arrangement with MagLite; Carley makes all of MagLite's lamps, but Carley won't sell the AA or AAA lamps to anyone but MagLite.
Do I really need a D cell MagLite? Nope. Not if you are using alkaline cells. The krypton lamps for alkaline cells, and the xenon lamps have a very low amperage compared to the krypton lamps for rechargables, so C cell MagLites will work fine. With alks.
Can I use high amperage krypton lights (1.7A is the brightest) in my C cell MagLite? Yep, but the light won't be as bright (the lamp is a reactive load, not a static one), and the batteries will get sucked dry very fast.
The D cells have over twice the capacity of the hi-cap C cells. You could use 1.2A or 1.5A krypton rechargable lamps with C cells, but even so, they are much dimmer than in a D cell flashlight.
Can I use krypton or xenon lamps with rechargable batteries? No in general, but yes under some peculiar circumstances. Prolonged use of these lamps with NiCd's will cause premature lamp failure, say after 10 or 15 hours or so.
The circumstance in which you should do just that (change to an alkaline lamp when you have NiCd batteries loaded), is as follows: you have one flashlight, and know that you will need more than about 90 min. of light. The recent power outage in SF, with people pouring off the BART train in the under the bay tunnel was a good example (not a MagLite in view, BTW; only POS plastic 2 cell jobs obviously BART equipment). You won't get quite the burn time as if you had alkaline cells (10,000 mAh), but the 4500mAh NiCds should last between 5 to 6 hours, at a guess.
Where do you get the alkaline lamp? In the tail cap, where there is a spare lamp in EVERY SIZE of MagLite.
Hope this helps, Walt
Ralf; excellent sites on Krills and other stuff, especially the Photon Night Rider.
Smoke (and others); I would be glad to send you Carley lamps. They sell to the public, but the minimum order is $50, and takes a few weeks. Frankly since the expensive xenon ones only cost about $3.50, I have been giving them to people. I get them wholesale from Carley, having been dealing with them for over 15 years.
CARLEY LAMP FAQ's; What is a CL? Well, it is a lamp (bulb if you wish; I have no idea why Carley calls them lamps) which is pressurized with an inert noble gas (krypton or xenon),in a container made of quartz. This is in contrast to a standard glass PR lamp which is a vacuum with a tungsten filament in it.
There are advantages to this method; the W (tungsten) tends to evaporate from the filament in a standard incandescent light bulb (OK, lamp), and deposit on the glass surface, dimming the light. In the CL, the W tends to get redeposited on the filament itself. Further, substituting quartz for glass allows much higher operating temperatures, and thus more light output. The fact that the filament is in an inert gas also helps produce light (remember fluorescent lights? Not the same, but similar).
Can I use a CL in any flashlight? Sure. Only problem is, that if it is a cheap light, the reflector will probably melt and bubble over time. Even a MagLite reflector needs changing every 5 years or so, IF you are using the HiCap NiCd and the high amperage krypton lamps. You are probably OK with alkaline cells and krypton or xenon lamps, which run much cooler. Certainly MagLites are. Lenses don't need replacement, except for when they get scratched.
What is this xenon lamp? It is the same type of lamp as the krypton ones, just filled with a different noble gas. It is more efficient, and will yield about 30-50% more light, without affecting battery life.
Can you use xenon lamps with rechargeable batteries? Nope. Xenon lamps are for alkaline cells only. There is one peculiar exeption to this rule, discussed below, for emergencies only.
How about xenon lamps for AA and AAA size batteries? Nope. Don't make them (yet?). Actually there is some peculiar arrangement with MagLite; Carley makes all of MagLite's lamps, but Carley won't sell the AA or AAA lamps to anyone but MagLite.
Do I really need a D cell MagLite? Nope. Not if you are using alkaline cells. The krypton lamps for alkaline cells, and the xenon lamps have a very low amperage compared to the krypton lamps for rechargables, so C cell MagLites will work fine. With alks.
Can I use high amperage krypton lights (1.7A is the brightest) in my C cell MagLite? Yep, but the light won't be as bright (the lamp is a reactive load, not a static one), and the batteries will get sucked dry very fast.
The D cells have over twice the capacity of the hi-cap C cells. You could use 1.2A or 1.5A krypton rechargable lamps with C cells, but even so, they are much dimmer than in a D cell flashlight.
Can I use krypton or xenon lamps with rechargable batteries? No in general, but yes under some peculiar circumstances. Prolonged use of these lamps with NiCd's will cause premature lamp failure, say after 10 or 15 hours or so.
The circumstance in which you should do just that (change to an alkaline lamp when you have NiCd batteries loaded), is as follows: you have one flashlight, and know that you will need more than about 90 min. of light. The recent power outage in SF, with people pouring off the BART train in the under the bay tunnel was a good example (not a MagLite in view, BTW; only POS plastic 2 cell jobs obviously BART equipment). You won't get quite the burn time as if you had alkaline cells (10,000 mAh), but the 4500mAh NiCds should last between 5 to 6 hours, at a guess.
Where do you get the alkaline lamp? In the tail cap, where there is a spare lamp in EVERY SIZE of MagLite.
Hope this helps, Walt
Some facts about the Nightriders.
They are primary for biking, but you could also use them for any kind of nightly activity, depending on what kind of setup you got. The whole thing is very modular and you can assemble it specifically to your needs.
First, the setup I have. It is the one beam 15 watts version, handle bar mount, with the water bottle battery. This battery looks like a black plastic water bottle, but is actually a NiCad battery. It is connected to the headlamp with a spiral cable. The one end is fixed to the bottle, the other one can be plugged into the head lamp or the charger. One plugged in, the whole set is sealed and should be fairly watertight. That specific battery pack cant be disassembled and needs to be replaced completely if damaged.
The pack for the single beam version has 6V. The good thing about the 6V one lamp version is that the battery pack comes in a pouch with cord or as battery pack only. A NiCad battery upgrade kit is also available, it takes 5 rechargeable D cells. The pouch version is interesting for general usage and can be worn almost anywhere on the body. They retail from $56 to $140.
The head lamp has several mounting options: two for the handle bar, Velcro or bolt for a helmet, neoprene headband, ball cap with mount multi position, and mount for ball cap. With this it is possible to get a hands free light whatever you are doing. The light gets turned on with a little rubber-covered switch in the housing of the headlamp. Mounts are from $11 to $36.
Single lamp bulbs come in 5, 10, or 15 watts. They have a 10-degree spot and cost $20 each. The double beam version has two lamps in one housing, takes 13.2V and goes from 12 to 20 (!) watts. One 20 watts version has a 17-degree floodlight.
Regarding the brightness and weight of my version.
The water bottle type battery is fairly heavy (estimate: a pound). No problem, since the bike carries it. The lightest pack should be the 5D version. The headlamp is just a few ounces. Its easy to wear attached to your head.
I compared the brightness to my Surefire 8X http://www.uws.com/SURE-FIRE_8XSF.html and would say the Nightrider is about 50% to 70% brighter. This of course is very subjective even if both were fairly well charged.
Charging time on my pack is 10-15 hours, burn time should be >2 hours (estimate, depends on the temperature).
Here some facts regarding NiCad batteries.
These batteries loose about 1% of their charge per day, with up to 10% in the first 48 hours. It is recommended not to discharge them completely, for it is possible to actually reverse the polarity of one or more cells in the pack. In this case you cant recharge the pack anymore. Once worn out, it is necessary to recycle the batteries, since Cadmium is a heavy metal and not good for the environment.
Where the Petzl ends is where the Nightrider begins.
They are primary for biking, but you could also use them for any kind of nightly activity, depending on what kind of setup you got. The whole thing is very modular and you can assemble it specifically to your needs.
First, the setup I have. It is the one beam 15 watts version, handle bar mount, with the water bottle battery. This battery looks like a black plastic water bottle, but is actually a NiCad battery. It is connected to the headlamp with a spiral cable. The one end is fixed to the bottle, the other one can be plugged into the head lamp or the charger. One plugged in, the whole set is sealed and should be fairly watertight. That specific battery pack cant be disassembled and needs to be replaced completely if damaged.
The pack for the single beam version has 6V. The good thing about the 6V one lamp version is that the battery pack comes in a pouch with cord or as battery pack only. A NiCad battery upgrade kit is also available, it takes 5 rechargeable D cells. The pouch version is interesting for general usage and can be worn almost anywhere on the body. They retail from $56 to $140.
The head lamp has several mounting options: two for the handle bar, Velcro or bolt for a helmet, neoprene headband, ball cap with mount multi position, and mount for ball cap. With this it is possible to get a hands free light whatever you are doing. The light gets turned on with a little rubber-covered switch in the housing of the headlamp. Mounts are from $11 to $36.
Single lamp bulbs come in 5, 10, or 15 watts. They have a 10-degree spot and cost $20 each. The double beam version has two lamps in one housing, takes 13.2V and goes from 12 to 20 (!) watts. One 20 watts version has a 17-degree floodlight.
Regarding the brightness and weight of my version.
The water bottle type battery is fairly heavy (estimate: a pound). No problem, since the bike carries it. The lightest pack should be the 5D version. The headlamp is just a few ounces. Its easy to wear attached to your head.
I compared the brightness to my Surefire 8X http://www.uws.com/SURE-FIRE_8XSF.html and would say the Nightrider is about 50% to 70% brighter. This of course is very subjective even if both were fairly well charged.
Charging time on my pack is 10-15 hours, burn time should be >2 hours (estimate, depends on the temperature).
Here some facts regarding NiCad batteries.
These batteries loose about 1% of their charge per day, with up to 10% in the first 48 hours. It is recommended not to discharge them completely, for it is possible to actually reverse the polarity of one or more cells in the pack. In this case you cant recharge the pack anymore. Once worn out, it is necessary to recycle the batteries, since Cadmium is a heavy metal and not good for the environment.
Where the Petzl ends is where the Nightrider begins.
One more thing. You can get yourself a decent 2D Maglight combo from Walgreens. They carry a Krypton bulb (2.8V, 0.85A, $10) especially for this version. Add to that the Eveready cells (surprisingly light. It seems they contain just air!) and the matching charger and off you go. Never had problems with this setup.
A tip for high output bulbs. Try to never touch them with your bare hands! Once on, the natural oil of your skin will burn into the glass and can reduce the life of the bulb significantly.
A tip for high output bulbs. Try to never touch them with your bare hands! Once on, the natural oil of your skin will burn into the glass and can reduce the life of the bulb significantly.
- Joined
- Feb 19, 1999
- Messages
- 2,959
I dunno, there's just something about wrapping my hand around the shaft of a D Maglite that I find strangely comforting. Wonder why that is?
Seriously, I love my 6 Zulu, got half a dozen Maglites 2d 3d 5d and AA.
Always been frustrated by the Maglites though. Not just because my little 6Z is brighter, but because the focus on Maglites is so hit or miss. I have some that focus down to a very bright spot that you can cover with your hand at 10 yards, and some that don't focus to a spot at any distance. Does anybody know of a good fix for this? I've thought about shaving the cam on the bottom of the reflector, but don't want to screw up a reflector for the sake of experimentation.
What do you guys think? If no one's done it, let me know and I'll give it a try and let you know.
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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!
Seriously, I love my 6 Zulu, got half a dozen Maglites 2d 3d 5d and AA.
Always been frustrated by the Maglites though. Not just because my little 6Z is brighter, but because the focus on Maglites is so hit or miss. I have some that focus down to a very bright spot that you can cover with your hand at 10 yards, and some that don't focus to a spot at any distance. Does anybody know of a good fix for this? I've thought about shaving the cam on the bottom of the reflector, but don't want to screw up a reflector for the sake of experimentation.
What do you guys think? If no one's done it, let me know and I'll give it a try and let you know.
------------------
I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!
- Joined
- Feb 20, 1999
- Messages
- 1,284
Joe!
call it coincidence, or something, but I have almost all that you mentioned above, except for the Mil-Skylite, in which I got only the Skylite (white and red led bulbs). I think blue-green is now the official (??) mil-spec for night-lights?? Used to be red.
Walt: I'm amazed..
All these info will definitely help in choosing the right type of bulb (lamp, whatever) to use. Like me, hearing about the Carley Lamps for the first time, and I thought "Hey! I've gotta get one of these!". Imagine what would happen if you hadn't posted these vital info, and we got the wrong versions for our Mags as replacement bulbs.
Thanks pal.
Err.. Ken? You're giving us weird ideas as to why you love to hold that D-cell Mag of yours, hahahahaha!!!
As to the reflector thing, I've always been curious too, as to how to improve the light output by modifying the reflector assembly. In my 6Z Surefire, I noticed that the reflector is somewhat satin finished, not glossy clear like those of the Maglite. Wonder why that's so...
Hmmm... Notice the headlights of the newer cars, like the Honda Accord and others? They have greater light intensity, given the same wattage and bulb. I noticed that their reflectors are not one-piece, but rather broken down, or mosaic-like, in design.. Do you guys think this would help if the same patterns are applied to the reflector assembly on the flashlights themselves? Just curious... Duh, sorry, am not making sense here.. hehehe..
So, what do we call ourselves? Flashnuts? lol!!
Dan
Walt: I'm amazed..
Err.. Ken? You're giving us weird ideas as to why you love to hold that D-cell Mag of yours, hahahahaha!!!
As to the reflector thing, I've always been curious too, as to how to improve the light output by modifying the reflector assembly. In my 6Z Surefire, I noticed that the reflector is somewhat satin finished, not glossy clear like those of the Maglite. Wonder why that's so...
Hmmm... Notice the headlights of the newer cars, like the Honda Accord and others? They have greater light intensity, given the same wattage and bulb. I noticed that their reflectors are not one-piece, but rather broken down, or mosaic-like, in design.. Do you guys think this would help if the same patterns are applied to the reflector assembly on the flashlights themselves? Just curious... Duh, sorry, am not making sense here.. hehehe..
So, what do we call ourselves? Flashnuts? lol!!
Dan
Hello guys, this is turning out to be very interesting and informative!! Its really nice when sites get posted right up, click and go..Helps me to spend more money(where's my wife, make sure shes not lurking)
RALF and WALT , thanks, I be emailing you soon, about Carley.. About the auto lamps/bulbs..Autos in the last few years have taken a hard look at their designs.The newer 99,(some) have switched to super white bulbs,(halogen,ion)these produce pure white light. Color temps @3800k, very close to actual sunlight! They produce almost double the light per watt! At a distance you will see them with a slight blue color. I have switched a couple of my vehicles over and what a difference they make..even with older designed lens. The autos in the last few years have changed to mostly halogen bulbs.(yellow light) They have higher temps. They surround them with a small kind of housing,(like a heat sink) reflect them back,then out. Also useing clear lens and hi tech reflectors.(hi heat) They have also found that locating single bulbs in different spots produce better vision, this is the horizontal tiered look you see. Most new cars are offering low mounted drive lights(spots) as opposed to flood. Then there are Dichroic hologen,super white, has to do with the lens,color and designs. Well I guess I'm rambleing
.. If anyone is interested in converting your yellow bulb to super white(in your vehicle),not flashlight..Ha ha, Call Auto Indulgence@310-530-6716(ask for Brandy) or..www.autoindulgence.com
They have most available..h-1 h-3 h-4,ect. and conversion kits for sealed lamps..They average $70.00 a pair for bulbs only..THEY ARE COOL!
I know this is off the subject of blades but fits in with flashlights..
Again thanks for all the light info..Now if I could just buy one of those litesabers!
Later Bart
They have most available..h-1 h-3 h-4,ect. and conversion kits for sealed lamps..They average $70.00 a pair for bulbs only..THEY ARE COOL!
I know this is off the subject of blades but fits in with flashlights..
Again thanks for all the light info..Now if I could just buy one of those litesabers!
Later Bart
Just a quick story about flashlights.
Back in my military days I carried a 2AAA Maglight in my BDU cargo pocket. Always came in handy. The time it was worth its weight in gold was while deployed in Saudi Arabia. The makeshift BX(Base Exchange, store) we had did not have any AA batteries. They had plenty of AAA, but no AA. I was there 3 months, and I only saw them in the BX once. It seems every one had their AA Maglights, Walkmans, and Gameboys and no batteries. They expected the BX to have what they needed, but found out the hard way. My shop passed it on to the people who would take our place to bring your batteries, and a 2AAA Maglight. Just wanted to share my story.
Blades
Back in my military days I carried a 2AAA Maglight in my BDU cargo pocket. Always came in handy. The time it was worth its weight in gold was while deployed in Saudi Arabia. The makeshift BX(Base Exchange, store) we had did not have any AA batteries. They had plenty of AAA, but no AA. I was there 3 months, and I only saw them in the BX once. It seems every one had their AA Maglights, Walkmans, and Gameboys and no batteries. They expected the BX to have what they needed, but found out the hard way. My shop passed it on to the people who would take our place to bring your batteries, and a 2AAA Maglight. Just wanted to share my story.
Blades
- Joined
- Feb 20, 1999
- Messages
- 1,284
Bart, let me know if you find a lightsabre.. hehe.. That should go well with the topic of "blades" and "light" .. lol!!
As to lens assembly, I figured someone ought to try that design onto flashlight reflectors, and see how it will affect overall light intensity, using the same regular bulb.
I tried doing something to my brake lights once.. When it was getting blurry, and I can't clean the housing since it's already scratched, I wrapped the whole thing with aluminum foil (reflective side) and notice it was a whole light brighter (brake lights). The foil itself is wrinkled, maybe that's the idea of the newer auto-headlight designs?? duh.... it ain't mosaic-like, more like trash-like, hehe.. but it works well..
Of course, curiousity killed the cat.. did the same thing to my Maglite and it went from bad to worse.. and scratched my formerly lightly-scratched flashlight reflector in the process... hahahaha... so much for foils..
I wonder how Surefire was able to eliminate the dark spots totally... ??
Dan
[This message has been edited by Dannyc (edited 15 March 1999).]
As to lens assembly, I figured someone ought to try that design onto flashlight reflectors, and see how it will affect overall light intensity, using the same regular bulb.
I tried doing something to my brake lights once.. When it was getting blurry, and I can't clean the housing since it's already scratched, I wrapped the whole thing with aluminum foil (reflective side) and notice it was a whole light brighter (brake lights). The foil itself is wrinkled, maybe that's the idea of the newer auto-headlight designs?? duh.... it ain't mosaic-like, more like trash-like, hehe.. but it works well..
Of course, curiousity killed the cat.. did the same thing to my Maglite and it went from bad to worse.. and scratched my formerly lightly-scratched flashlight reflector in the process... hahahaha... so much for foils..
Dan
[This message has been edited by Dannyc (edited 15 March 1999).]
stjames
Sebenzanista
- Joined
- Oct 26, 1998
- Messages
- 6,465
Recomendations re: flashlight.
On the small, cheap end I would pick a Underwater Kinetics over the AA or AAA maglite, they are much brighter. As a rechargable, I prefer the Streamlight Stinger (you don't need to pull the battery while you charge), and I like the Streamlight Scorpion as a long term storage light (cars, basement, nightstands). They are not too expensive, and have a ten year storage life on the batteries(DL123A).
Surefire also makes some fine flashlights, especially the 6R. I like this lamp because it can convert from a rechargable battery to lithium, and is almost as bright as the Stinger. From the deck of the War Memorial Opera House both will light up the fly grid seventy feet above you.
Some links-
http://www.southernce.com/ - Streamlight products at great prices that include shipping.
http://hardarmorpolicesupply.com/ -Surefire products and a current deal on DL123A lithium batteries.
http://www.filmshop.com/shop/batteries.htm -good deals on off brand lithiums.
My two cents.
On the small, cheap end I would pick a Underwater Kinetics over the AA or AAA maglite, they are much brighter. As a rechargable, I prefer the Streamlight Stinger (you don't need to pull the battery while you charge), and I like the Streamlight Scorpion as a long term storage light (cars, basement, nightstands). They are not too expensive, and have a ten year storage life on the batteries(DL123A).
Surefire also makes some fine flashlights, especially the 6R. I like this lamp because it can convert from a rechargable battery to lithium, and is almost as bright as the Stinger. From the deck of the War Memorial Opera House both will light up the fly grid seventy feet above you.
Some links-
http://www.southernce.com/ - Streamlight products at great prices that include shipping.
http://hardarmorpolicesupply.com/ -Surefire products and a current deal on DL123A lithium batteries.
http://www.filmshop.com/shop/batteries.htm -good deals on off brand lithiums.
My two cents.
dano
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 1,625
Reflector assemblies in the typical flashlight are not very efficient...Surefire, Pelican have overcome this, somewhat, by molding a "honeycomb" design into the reflector...I do not know if anyone makes a honeycombed reflector for a Maglite/Legend, but it would improve light output...
--dan
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The blacksmith and the artist reflect it in their art...They forge their creativity closer to the heart...
--dan
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The blacksmith and the artist reflect it in their art...They forge their creativity closer to the heart...
Sid Post,
Best url for Hi-Gain lights I've so far found is: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2844/diamond.html
There are two sizes of Hi-Gain lights; the model 250 (4)AA and the model 500 (4) D cell.
They are made by Diamond Light Industries.
I hope that clears up any confusion I created earlier by giving wrong mdl info.
Of those, I like the 4AA. It's no where near the technology of some of the other lights being discussed in this thread, but it's useful, inexpensive and offers two modes of hands free usage.
***********************
The NightRider lights are simply awesome.
A guy I used to ride with had one, and quite literally, if you stayed close to him you could turn off your own bike light. Dedicated sport bike lights have come a long way in the past few years and if you've got enough money, you can just about illuminate the trail as if it was a movie set or something. There's _plenty_ of whole web sites and discussions about them and their relative merits. One good starting point is the free comparitive info sheets that REI gives away, but keep in mind that those are only starting points. I'm not going to address dedicated bike lights any further, since it's all been done better before, and gets far more in depth than the OT topic on a knife group should probably get. I will say one other thing though. If you want competitive pricing on dedicated separate heavy battery lights, look to some of the coon hunting sites. Same lights, different pricing, sometimes a savings, and sometimes not.
****************
Getting back to more general purpose lights, there've been several long running threads in rec.knives over the past couple years about flashlights including some pretty good info and links about photon lights. If interested you might do a DejaNews search. One thing that interested me was the different perceptions of the usefulness of the different colors. Color selection does seem like it might be a YMMV topic.
********************
Just as a datapoint, Tim Flannagan at noreastknives@bigfoot.com sells both Photons and Krill as well as knives.
**************************
Another possibly useless datapoint is that Buck used to market the justly famous Underwater Kinectics flashlights, so if you see some sporting goods place closing out on Buck 2Ls you might be interested in picking up some UK lights at bargain prices. (I did.) One word of caution there is that the Buck rep said that on some of the AA or AAA models they downgraded the lamps from the UK orig. so perhaps those aren't such a bargain, but the 2L lithium ones seem like a good deal at around $18-$20US.
**************************
Here's another site. Haven't tried their products but some might be interesting:
http://www.tek-tite.com/index.html
That's enough for now, Bye,
mps
Best url for Hi-Gain lights I've so far found is: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/2844/diamond.html
There are two sizes of Hi-Gain lights; the model 250 (4)AA and the model 500 (4) D cell.
They are made by Diamond Light Industries.
I hope that clears up any confusion I created earlier by giving wrong mdl info.
Of those, I like the 4AA. It's no where near the technology of some of the other lights being discussed in this thread, but it's useful, inexpensive and offers two modes of hands free usage.
***********************
The NightRider lights are simply awesome.
A guy I used to ride with had one, and quite literally, if you stayed close to him you could turn off your own bike light. Dedicated sport bike lights have come a long way in the past few years and if you've got enough money, you can just about illuminate the trail as if it was a movie set or something. There's _plenty_ of whole web sites and discussions about them and their relative merits. One good starting point is the free comparitive info sheets that REI gives away, but keep in mind that those are only starting points. I'm not going to address dedicated bike lights any further, since it's all been done better before, and gets far more in depth than the OT topic on a knife group should probably get. I will say one other thing though. If you want competitive pricing on dedicated separate heavy battery lights, look to some of the coon hunting sites. Same lights, different pricing, sometimes a savings, and sometimes not.
****************
Getting back to more general purpose lights, there've been several long running threads in rec.knives over the past couple years about flashlights including some pretty good info and links about photon lights. If interested you might do a DejaNews search. One thing that interested me was the different perceptions of the usefulness of the different colors. Color selection does seem like it might be a YMMV topic.
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Just as a datapoint, Tim Flannagan at noreastknives@bigfoot.com sells both Photons and Krill as well as knives.
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Another possibly useless datapoint is that Buck used to market the justly famous Underwater Kinectics flashlights, so if you see some sporting goods place closing out on Buck 2Ls you might be interested in picking up some UK lights at bargain prices. (I did.) One word of caution there is that the Buck rep said that on some of the AA or AAA models they downgraded the lamps from the UK orig. so perhaps those aren't such a bargain, but the 2L lithium ones seem like a good deal at around $18-$20US.
**************************
Here's another site. Haven't tried their products but some might be interesting:
http://www.tek-tite.com/index.html
That's enough for now, Bye,
mps
I'm sorry, how could I forget about REI's little keychain light, a recent competitor of the Photon II and about $10. Keep your Photon gentlemen. I mentioned this in a thread at Tactical Talk. San Francisco residents can see this firsthand at Lombardi's Sports.
Walt mentioned the darkened alley ways earlier. I purchased a Photon II and Scorpion because of a similar incident in an an area with good light but poorly placed. I simply could not see 10ft in front of me.
My best friend recently purchased a mini maglite as he travels by train. As many a California resident knows, public trains have been prone to power outtages in tunnels. Walking in the dark quickly has become a nagging possibility.
Funny enough when I showed others my orange Photon they 1) liked the brightness from a small package 2) asked me if it was laser pointer.
Walt mentioned the darkened alley ways earlier. I purchased a Photon II and Scorpion because of a similar incident in an an area with good light but poorly placed. I simply could not see 10ft in front of me.
My best friend recently purchased a mini maglite as he travels by train. As many a California resident knows, public trains have been prone to power outtages in tunnels. Walking in the dark quickly has become a nagging possibility.
Funny enough when I showed others my orange Photon they 1) liked the brightness from a small package 2) asked me if it was laser pointer.
- Joined
- Oct 7, 1998
- Messages
- 1,838
Problem with focus in a MagLite with a cylindrical quartz lamp with a biconvex lens in the tip? That is to say, the premium MagNum Star or Krypton Star lamps. The White Star lamps which come with MagLites look just like PR lamps (your old vacuum flashlight bulb), and they are much inferior. Don't waste your time trying to get these to focus.
The problem was that the process of manufacture (of the premium lamps) left a v shaped notch in the collar of the lamp, with part of it bent towards the base of the lamp. Putting this into a MagLite would tip the lamp slightly. This has been eliminated in recent production, but you sometimes still see filaments which are slightly misaligned.
Here is the fix. First, hold the MagLite, with the head removed, so you can see the lamp, and loosen the lamp collar slightly, then rotate the lamp until the filament assembly lines up with the long axis of the flashlight. Clean the lamp with Windex or alcohol and wipe dry with Kleenex or lens paper. This will solve most problems, with sometimes some slight additional rotation needed on a trial and error basis. These lamps get HOT quickly, so give them time to cool off before touching.
There is a more aggressive approach which I have used infrequently, but successfully in refractory cases. Determine which way you want the filament assembly to be moved. With the lamp cold, smack the properly oriented flaslight head against a phone book. This will usually move the filament assembly somewhat, but not break it. Trial and error will usually result in acceptable focus. Just be sure you don't smack that hot filament, as W gets weak when it gets hot, and you will bust it very easily. This is not recommended by Carley or MagLite, and YMMV, but it make a useful lamp out of one that is really out of focus.
BTW, MagLite extensively reengineered their MagLite line about 10 years ago. If you have an old model, which has a serial number about 3/16" in height, it is time to get a new model. There are significant advantages in the switch and other elements. The new model has a C or D in front of the serial number, and the font is about 1/2 the size of the old type's serial number. The diameter of the barrel was reduced in the new model. D cells used to rattle around in the original model; I used foam tape (thin foam rubber with glue on it) to pad the batteries. Batteries with foam tape on will NOT fit into the new model MagLites.
About NiCd batteries. Those Eveready ones you mentioned, Ralf, that were so light they seemed to be filled with air, ARE filled with air. They are really a C cell battery, padded with plastic and air to make it a D cell size. Look at the mAh. The hi-cap batteries from Radio Shack are rated at 2300 mAh for C cells, and 4500 mAh for D cells. Take a look at your Eveready batteries, and let us know what the mAh rating is. I suspect you will be very surprised.
Hope this helps, Walt
The problem was that the process of manufacture (of the premium lamps) left a v shaped notch in the collar of the lamp, with part of it bent towards the base of the lamp. Putting this into a MagLite would tip the lamp slightly. This has been eliminated in recent production, but you sometimes still see filaments which are slightly misaligned.
Here is the fix. First, hold the MagLite, with the head removed, so you can see the lamp, and loosen the lamp collar slightly, then rotate the lamp until the filament assembly lines up with the long axis of the flashlight. Clean the lamp with Windex or alcohol and wipe dry with Kleenex or lens paper. This will solve most problems, with sometimes some slight additional rotation needed on a trial and error basis. These lamps get HOT quickly, so give them time to cool off before touching.
There is a more aggressive approach which I have used infrequently, but successfully in refractory cases. Determine which way you want the filament assembly to be moved. With the lamp cold, smack the properly oriented flaslight head against a phone book. This will usually move the filament assembly somewhat, but not break it. Trial and error will usually result in acceptable focus. Just be sure you don't smack that hot filament, as W gets weak when it gets hot, and you will bust it very easily. This is not recommended by Carley or MagLite, and YMMV, but it make a useful lamp out of one that is really out of focus.
BTW, MagLite extensively reengineered their MagLite line about 10 years ago. If you have an old model, which has a serial number about 3/16" in height, it is time to get a new model. There are significant advantages in the switch and other elements. The new model has a C or D in front of the serial number, and the font is about 1/2 the size of the old type's serial number. The diameter of the barrel was reduced in the new model. D cells used to rattle around in the original model; I used foam tape (thin foam rubber with glue on it) to pad the batteries. Batteries with foam tape on will NOT fit into the new model MagLites.
About NiCd batteries. Those Eveready ones you mentioned, Ralf, that were so light they seemed to be filled with air, ARE filled with air. They are really a C cell battery, padded with plastic and air to make it a D cell size. Look at the mAh. The hi-cap batteries from Radio Shack are rated at 2300 mAh for C cells, and 4500 mAh for D cells. Take a look at your Eveready batteries, and let us know what the mAh rating is. I suspect you will be very surprised.
Hope this helps, Walt
- Joined
- Oct 7, 1998
- Messages
- 1,838
Bartman; I found your discussion of automobile headlights to be very interesting. One thing, I believe the color temperature of the sun to be higher than you stated. Here is a post from the Brian Avery Photon site discussion board:
*************
Re: More on White looks Blue
Posted by Bill B. on Sunday, 31 January 1999, at 3:56 a.m.
White LED's are actually blue LED's with a special filter that convert the blue to white light. The filter leaks around the edges, thus the blue ring. These LED's have a rather high color temperature of around 7800 degrees K (Kelvin), which makes it a "cold" white light. The color temperature of "neutral" sunlight is around 5600 K, and a warm white flourescent is around 3500 K. The lower the color temperature, the more "red" it will appear. Adding a red LED of the right brightness alongside the white will lower the color temperature, making it appear more like natural sunlight. Other color temperatures distort colors, making them look unnatural. That's the 75 cent explaination. : ) (some snipping: WW)
Bill B.
http://www.access1.net/gasaver
***************
The Photon site lists the white at 6500 K, but whether or not this figure, or the figure above (which is more likely correct, as the lights have changed greatly over the past year or so), 7800 K, is correct, the 'full spectrum white' Photon has a definite lavender cast to it. This means a lot of energy in the high frequency (blue) end of the spectrum. More energy in the blue spectrum than sunlight.
So what? Well, the problem is that if you take a red Photon, and compare it with one from the high frequency range (blue, turquoise, white), and try and read 1/4" type at 6 feet, you will find it easy to read with the red, but impossible to even tell it is type with the high freq. Photons.
The white, blue and turquoise appear, and are brighter, but they blur detail. Chromatic aberration is the name for this phenomenon, and it is caused as the cornea and lens of your eye bend blue light more than red, and actually bend the blue too much so that it focuses in front of the retina, thus blurring the image. This is how 'blue blocker' sun glasses work: by blocking blue light, detail (contrast) is heightened.
Please note that this makes no difference in close up use, such as map reading.
However, Bartman, here is my question: have you noticed any change in your ability to discern detail (road signs, bicyclists, etc.) with a switch to a bluer auto headlight? I did not get the option of the (bluish) arc type lights on my 911, and find that the lighting is adequate, to say the least. I am very interested in your real world experiences, however.
PS; Ralf; you didn't mean to say that the krypton lamp (bulb) for the 2 D cell flashlight cost $10 itself, did you? The Carley lamps cost me $3 for krypton, and $3.50 for the xenon, plus shipping and tax, so I assume you mean the entire package, right?
*************
Re: More on White looks Blue
Posted by Bill B. on Sunday, 31 January 1999, at 3:56 a.m.
White LED's are actually blue LED's with a special filter that convert the blue to white light. The filter leaks around the edges, thus the blue ring. These LED's have a rather high color temperature of around 7800 degrees K (Kelvin), which makes it a "cold" white light. The color temperature of "neutral" sunlight is around 5600 K, and a warm white flourescent is around 3500 K. The lower the color temperature, the more "red" it will appear. Adding a red LED of the right brightness alongside the white will lower the color temperature, making it appear more like natural sunlight. Other color temperatures distort colors, making them look unnatural. That's the 75 cent explaination. : ) (some snipping: WW)
Bill B.
http://www.access1.net/gasaver
***************
The Photon site lists the white at 6500 K, but whether or not this figure, or the figure above (which is more likely correct, as the lights have changed greatly over the past year or so), 7800 K, is correct, the 'full spectrum white' Photon has a definite lavender cast to it. This means a lot of energy in the high frequency (blue) end of the spectrum. More energy in the blue spectrum than sunlight.
So what? Well, the problem is that if you take a red Photon, and compare it with one from the high frequency range (blue, turquoise, white), and try and read 1/4" type at 6 feet, you will find it easy to read with the red, but impossible to even tell it is type with the high freq. Photons.
The white, blue and turquoise appear, and are brighter, but they blur detail. Chromatic aberration is the name for this phenomenon, and it is caused as the cornea and lens of your eye bend blue light more than red, and actually bend the blue too much so that it focuses in front of the retina, thus blurring the image. This is how 'blue blocker' sun glasses work: by blocking blue light, detail (contrast) is heightened.
Please note that this makes no difference in close up use, such as map reading.
However, Bartman, here is my question: have you noticed any change in your ability to discern detail (road signs, bicyclists, etc.) with a switch to a bluer auto headlight? I did not get the option of the (bluish) arc type lights on my 911, and find that the lighting is adequate, to say the least. I am very interested in your real world experiences, however.
PS; Ralf; you didn't mean to say that the krypton lamp (bulb) for the 2 D cell flashlight cost $10 itself, did you? The Carley lamps cost me $3 for krypton, and $3.50 for the xenon, plus shipping and tax, so I assume you mean the entire package, right?
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 4,842
Mike,
The little tek-tite lights look really interesting.
I've been searching for the perfect briefcase light for myself. It'd be very light (my briefcase is already too heavy), nice and bright, and the battery would last a long time in storage. This isn't my work light, it's a just-in-case light. The small 3-LED light that works off a DL123A would seem to be a great fit! I may have to check it out.
I've been using my little UK 2-L light in this duty, but it's bigger and brighter than I need it to be, plus I always end up taking it out of the briefcase to use it around the house, then forget to put it back in. So the UK 2-L is moving up to my main around-the-house light.
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
The little tek-tite lights look really interesting.
I've been searching for the perfect briefcase light for myself. It'd be very light (my briefcase is already too heavy), nice and bright, and the battery would last a long time in storage. This isn't my work light, it's a just-in-case light. The small 3-LED light that works off a DL123A would seem to be a great fit! I may have to check it out.
I've been using my little UK 2-L light in this duty, but it's bigger and brighter than I need it to be, plus I always end up taking it out of the briefcase to use it around the house, then forget to put it back in. So the UK 2-L is moving up to my main around-the-house light.
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
I just received an email from Kirana Corp.(they make the Krill lights). I asked about a larger Krill light, maybe a C or D sized one. They told me they have plans to release C and/or D cell lights in the next year or so. They also mentioned they are going to have 65 different styles in the next few years just from the AA version. Just thought I would pass that on.
Blades
Blades
- Joined
- Oct 2, 1998
- Messages
- 573
Just to comment on the future Photon offerings: currently a waterproof model is being designed - it should be out by the end of the year if things work out right. They are working on a larger model as was mentioned, but that is still in the planning phases and probably will be an extended period of time before that comes to the market. Current plans indicate using "AA" batteries for the new model.
As for the Kriana Krills, as stated there is a lot planned for the next 3 years with some real interesting ideas I think you'll all find rather useful. The Krills are currently about to undergo field testing by NASA. Some other military applications have been assessed but I can't posibly comment on those.
Look for an upcoming infoburst in the Dealer forum...
------------------
--
Regards,
Tim
Nor'east Knives
There are two rules for ultimate success in life.
Never tell everything you know.
As for the Kriana Krills, as stated there is a lot planned for the next 3 years with some real interesting ideas I think you'll all find rather useful. The Krills are currently about to undergo field testing by NASA. Some other military applications have been assessed but I can't posibly comment on those.
Look for an upcoming infoburst in the Dealer forum...------------------
--
Regards,
Tim
Nor'east Knives
There are two rules for ultimate success in life.
Never tell everything you know.