Flaurinated grease.

gine

gine

Joined
Sep 2, 2007
Messages
1,169
I can't seem to find any flaurinated grease in my area.
Does anyone have any other suggestions on what would work
With CRK tolerances as an alternative.??
Thx.
 
break free works great, I find the fluorinated grease actually gums up the action after about a week of carry.
 
I use Extreme Fluoro Grease by Finish Line. I found it at Amazon, but any good bicycle store should carry it. It has a syringe applicator, which is my preference.
 
Check "Outdoor Gear" in Canada for Finish Line Extreme Fluoro Grease
 
wolf5391 said:
break free works great, I find the fluorinated grease actually gums up the action after about a week of carry.
Click to expand...

Careful with the break free/clean. I work as a Millwright and it is extremely abarasive and can cause pitting in certain metals.

Try using some compressed air to blow out the pocket lint/dirt.

Directly from the CRK website. Each knife is supplied with an Allen wrench which can be used to dismantle the knife. This allows easy cleaning -- a drop of silicone or teflon oil needs to be put on the hinge after cleaning - try our Fluorinated Grease!

So as you see silicone or teflon based products will work nicely as well.

I personally like to blow the hinge out until I see dirt and then I squeeze in a little new clean grease in and work the action back in forth until I get good penetration. Then I wipe away excess grease with a clean q-tip, as excess grease attracts dirt.

Do this once a week and you should be good unless your in dusty/harsh environments, then try daily if needed. good luck

Also silicone based grease is a lot cheaper
 
Any 100% PTFE ( teflon) grease will do the work. I use Tetra gun grease now.
 
I started using corrosion x and blue lube on my knives/sebenza now. Didn't really like how the action was with CRK grease.
 
I use shooters choice grease. It has served me well. I think just about any lube used on firearms should work. Swing by the local sporting goods store.
 
HughesTMH said:
Careful with the break free/clean. I work as a Millwright and it is extremely abarasive and can cause pitting in certain metals.
Click to expand...

Really? I did not know this. I've been using it for year on my knives and pistols. What in it is abrasive? What metals does it cause pitting on? Some more information would be nice if you could provide it.

Maybe I should just stick with Ballistol for everything.

-sh00ter
 
Found this on a Smith and Wesson blog

"You must remember to re oil the gun after using brake cleaner. It removes all of the oil from the pours of the steel and can cause the gun to rust internally. (Even stainless steel.) This requires you to disassemble the gun to get at the internal parts and defeats the purpose of using the aerosol cleaner in the first place. I've seen a few police guns ruined by using gun scrubber type cleaners and then not properly lubing the gun. My advise is to stay away from this stuff all together. It's a lazy mans cleaner and ends up being more work than regular CLP or Hoppe's on a rag in the end."

Have personally seen it etch a friends glock, handle. Brake clean has been known to remove bluing.
Saw a buddy do it as quick clean in the Army back in the early 90's. It literally destroyed his weapon M16A2 in about six months. Bluing was shot on the barrel, ate his pistol grip and pitted the hell out of the bolt. He would clean his weapon and then not properly oil it down afterwards and Georgia is too hot and too humid to leave any metals exposed.


As far as industry use goes, we were rebuilding some gear boxes and cleaned the gears for inspection before installation. Did some non destructive testing to ensure no cracks, whistle blew, went home. Came back to work on Monday to find almost the exact senario as described. Where the gears were dry, rust was starting to form and pitting was starting to occur. Fortunately we were able to clean them up and re lube and use with out further damage. The gears were made out of a high tempered steel.

Brake clean that is clorinated will eat any wood inlays.

Guess you can use if you need to, just lube very well when done, although I wouldn't recommend it.

Like the posting said it literally removes all oils out of the metal and it can make it more inclined to rust if you don't properly lube afterwards.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 
HughesTMH said:
Found this on a Smith and Wesson blog

"You must remember to re oil the gun after using brake cleaner. It removes all of the oil from the pours of the steel and can cause the gun to rust internally. (Even stainless steel.) This requires you to disassemble the gun to get at the internal parts and defeats the purpose of using the aerosol cleaner in the first place. I've seen a few police guns ruined by using gun scrubber type cleaners and then not properly lubing the gun. My advise is to stay away from this stuff all together. It's a lazy mans cleaner and ends up being more work than regular CLP or Hoppe's on a rag in the end."

Have personally seen it etch a friends glock, handle. Brake clean has been known to remove bluing.
Saw a buddy do it as quick clean in the Army back in the early 90's. It literally destroyed his weapon M16A2 in about six months. Bluing was shot on the barrel, ate his pistol grip and pitted the hell out of the bolt. He would clean his weapon and then not properly oil it down afterwards and Georgia is too hot and too humid to leave any metals exposed.


As far as industry use goes, we were rebuilding some gear boxes and cleaned the gears for inspection before installation. Did some non destructive testing to ensure no cracks, whistle blew, went home. Came back to work on Monday to find almost the exact senario as described. Where the gears were dry, rust was starting to form and pitting was starting to occur. Fortunately we were able to clean them up and re lube and use with out further damage. The gears were made out of a high tempered steel.

Brake clean that is clorinated will eat any wood inlays.

Guess you can use if you need to, just lube very well when done, although I wouldn't recommend it.

Like the posting said it literally removes all oils out of the metal and it can make it more inclined to rust if you don't properly lube afterwards.

Hope this helps.

Tom
Click to expand...

Oh ok, I think we're talking about to different things. Wolf and I are talking about Break Free or CLP (Clean, Lube, Protect).

Brake cleaner on the other hand I can see being a problem. I do my own brake work on my Jeep and it's definitely NOT something I would consider using on my knives and firearms. Don't recommend breathing it either:D

-sh00ter
 
Brake Free is very similar to brake kleen, on their website,
http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp

they state "DO NOT APPLY TO RUBBER OR PLASTIC GRIPS OR PARTS. Remove promptly with a cloth to avoid possible plastic damage. Powder Blast may damage painted finishes, camouflage or wood finishes and most polymers. Use with caution. "

CLP is awesome stuff, my spec ops buddies swore by it. That is definitely ok to use. It is not nearly as corrosive.

I just picked up an Umnumzaan and think that any break free/clean /kleen would hurt and damage the o rings that make it close O so nicely.

Good luck, hope this clarifies things.

Tom
 
HughesTMH said:
Brake Free is very similar to brake kleen, on their website,
http://www.break-free.com/?location=/products/index.asp

they state "DO NOT APPLY TO RUBBER OR PLASTIC GRIPS OR PARTS. Remove promptly with a cloth to avoid possible plastic damage. Powder Blast may damage painted finishes, camouflage or wood finishes and most polymers. Use with caution. "

CLP is awesome stuff, my spec ops buddies swore by it. That is definitely ok to use. It is not nearly as corrosive.

I just picked up an Umnumzaan and think that any break free/clean /kleen would hurt and damage the o rings that make it close O so nicely.

Good luck, hope this clarifies things.

Tom
Click to expand...

Ahh, ok. I was talking about CLP specifically, not the cleaner. Thanks for the clarification:thumbup:

-sh00ter
 
There is Fluorinated grease available on that website named after the huge river in South America. I bought it and use it on my knives with great effect.

Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease
 
I've alternated between CLP and CRK grease. The CRK florinated gease does make the action feel thick and sluggish even when used lightly. The CLP, on the other hand, makes the blade open with less force. I have noticed that the CLP picked up pocket grime faster and can cause rough action when any level of dirt gets in and can crud up the action quickly.
 
I use 3M krytox grease.

I got it off ebay, but diving shops stock it.

It is either the same or better than the OEM stuff.
 
Thanks xtal and Scurvy for the Finish Line recommendation. I ordered the grease and we'll see how it feels. I've already taken my new Sebbie apart, only to remove the lanyard/insert. I also removed the factory grease to try out the Benchmade Blue Lube. The blue stuff works pretty well it seems.

One lube that DID NOT work well is moly lube. I have some heavy duty Honda 60 Moly lube that's used on brake calipers. It's an extreme pressure lube that I thought would work well. Actually, it resulted in pretty much jamming the action. It seems the lube maintains a higher level of "thickness," which isn't compatible with the tight tolerances of a Sebbie. Cleaned it out, put blue lube back in, and the Sebbie is awesome once again.
 
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