Flaurinated grease.

Ok, so for me, the fluorinated Finish Line grease doesn't work well. My Sebbie is practically new and I'm finding that thinner oils work best, like Benchmade Blue Lube. Honda Moly Lube was by far the worst, with the Finish Line stuff being somewhere in the middle. Perhaps a more broken-in Sebbie allows a bit more clearance for the thicker lubes. For my knife, I find with the thinner oil and a moderately tightened pivot, life is good. The blade opens smoothly and with relatively little resistance.

I did try the fluorinated Finish Line stuff in my ball bearing-equipped Alan Davis folder. In that application, it works quite well. It's thick enough to stay put and does a nice job on the thrust bearings.

I just wanted to put this out there, so that folks realize the thicker grease may not work well in all applications. If a thin oil works well for the application, the thick stuff may just gum up the works.
 
What I do not understand is why not use the CRK grease? It's not that expensive and can be gotten in a week. To me it's like buying a car and not using the grade of oil specified by the manufacturer.
 
Because there are sometimes oils that exeed the manufacturers recomendation.
 
brownshoe said:
What I do not understand is why not use the CRK grease? It's not that expensive and can be gotten in a week. To me it's like buying a car and not using the grade of oil specified by the manufacturer.
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If it's as necessary as you think, why does CRK not include it with the knife or even ask if you want it when you order a knife direct? They include loctite with the Umnumzaan. They also include an allen wrench with all their knives, so they clearly expect it will be taken apart.

The truth is some people use them without any lube at all, so using another lube that isn't christo-lube isn't going to have a negative impact like running inferior oil would :)

I use other lubes because they work better. They collect more grime before needing to be cleaned and feel less gummy at the same time.
 
brownshoe said:
What I do not understand is why not use the CRK grease? It's not that expensive and can be gotten in a week. To me it's like buying a car and not using the grade of oil specified by the manufacturer.
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Because CRK's word is not gospel. Many of us have tried different products and found the one we like best. Me personally, I hate using grease on any knives.
 
hondahirny said:
Ok, so for me, the fluorinated Finish Line grease doesn't work well. My Sebbie is practically new and I'm finding that thinner oils work best, like Benchmade Blue Lube. Honda Moly Lube was by far the worst, with the Finish Line stuff being somewhere in the middle. Perhaps a more broken-in Sebbie allows a bit more clearance for the thicker lubes. For my knife, I find with the thinner oil and a moderately tightened pivot, life is good. The blade opens smoothly and with relatively little resistance.

I did try the fluorinated Finish Line stuff in my ball bearing-equipped Alan Davis folder. In that application, it works quite well. It's thick enough to stay put and does a nice job on the thrust bearings.

I just wanted to put this out there, so that folks realize the thicker grease may not work well in all applications. If a thin oil works well for the application, the thick stuff may just gum up the works.
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How much did you add? The Finish Line is so heavy duty you need to put WAY less than you would think. When I lube my knives with it, I use the needle to apply it and then use a q-tip to try and remove as much of it as I possibly can. Doing that leaves a super thin coating on the surfaces.
 
Is the grease a must as I'm expecting my first CRK and I want to protect it well.

Sent from Ash forum mobile
 
No, the grease isn't a must but when I got my first Seb it had a stiffer action than I was expecting so I ordered some CRK grease opened her up and to me it seemed there wasn't enough lube. When I put it back together its literally as smooth as any Sebenza I've seen :thumbup: I have a new Lrg Micarta thats not as smooth as my plain 21 but it has never been opened up yet ( Gonna see if she breaks in a little on her own) maybe today I'll give the first cleaning and lubing, gotta love how Seb's almost put themselves back together:thumbup:
 
I only use the CRK grease. Its what he recommends and if its good enough for him, its good enough for me too. I have bought used sebenzas from people and I have seen all sorts of greases that are oozing from the knives...lol. Nothing works as good as the CRK grease in my opinion. Its well worth the price and lasts a long time. When CRK tells me my 25 sebbie is ready, I wanna get some more grease so I have a backup...........Your only going to get the CRK grease from a dealer, or from CRK themselves. I still have the old tube syringe style.
 
Christo-lube is a family of products. Which one is it and how do you know?
 
brownshoe said:
Christo-lube is a family of products. Which one is it and how do you know?
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If you search this forum, it's been covered numerous times. BladeHQ and other dealers even say so in their description of CRK lube. If I remember correctly, it's the MCG-111 that CRK uses (if I don't, it's probably MCG-129).
 
I've been using BreakFree CLP to lube and protect all my gear for a couple of decades: fishing reels,guns,knives, axes, and my Sebbie 21. It's great stuff, and very little bit goes a long way.
 
kreole, I took your advice and did search and found this from Chris Reeve:

"CRK lube is specially formulated for us by the manufacturer that is why it is a little more expensive but it works better than any other lube that i have found.Petroleum based lubes do not work well with Ti .To use our lube you only have use very small drops in the right places it will last a long time so is not expensive when looked at from that point of view. "

It appears that it is not the same product as any stock lubricant.
 
Is there any way to lube the critical parts without disassembling? What if I just spray the inside? would this work? I'm not lazy, but just curious if this works.
 
That depends on the oil viscosity. A grease will not likely penetrate the innards. A thin oil might.
 
Per "Is there any way to lube the critical parts without disassembling? What if I just spray the inside? would this work? I'm not lazy, but just curious if this works."

I asked CRK customer service the same question. I was told the knife is designed to be taken down and lubed every year. This is not only for lubrication, but for rust protection. Disassebly is required for completing the procedure. If you don't want to disassemble the knife, they will do it for you for about $15.
 
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