Foil wrap failure

This may sound like a stupid question but if these steels air harden just fine why plate quench them?

And is there any other way to prevent decarb on SS blades than either foil or the oven that uses a salt bath sort of thing and thus has no air in it at all?

I want to make a kitchen knife when my brother gets married, probably out of 440C and I figure maybe 1/16th inch thick. I dont have any oven so would send it away for a propper heat treat though and I just want to make sure I don't run into too many of the problems like these.
 
Prevent decarb by using foil , salt bath , inert gas , vacuum.
Try CPM154 for a kitchen knife , it's very nice !
 
Prevent decarb by using foil , salt bath , inert gas , vacuum.
Try CPM154 for a kitchen knife , it's very nice !

Thanks.
I don't know why but I like 440C. It seems like great performance at a great price when compared to some metals that give a little better performance at a much higher price. I guess I feel like when it comes to the differences in super steel qualities it is like splitting hairs. I know they have differences but I feel like they are not that significant. Well that isn't totally true as I do consider rust resistance when looking at knives and I don't like the aus steels as much even though they are supposed to be similar to the 440 steels hehe.

Thoughts?
YOu werent the first to suggest that though. I know that 440C is not the most rust resistant SS either though.
 
I kept having problems with my foil sticking to the blade. 309 foil and D2 at 1850. I was cleaning the blades off real well then making a tight envelope. If I put a very light film of WD40 no sticking issues. I do get some coloring, but, that comes right off.

maybe the secret is not to press the foil against the blade and kinda let it hang freely around!
 
Leu I'm not trying to sound contradicting but I believe I read in here that you want to try and have as little air space in the foil as possible...is this correct, or not much of an issue? I am following this thread learning as I read. I am fortunate enough to have access to a 2 bar vacuum furnace at work that I can use. However when I get my oven bought, or built I want to do all my heat treating at home so I would like to learn what I can before hand.
 
Leu I'm not trying to sound contradicting but I believe I read in here that you want to try and have as little air space in the foil as possible...is this correct, or not much of an issue? I am following this thread learning as I read. I am fortunate enough to have access to a 2 bar vacuum furnace at work that I can use. However when I get my oven bought, or built I want to do all my heat treating at home so I would like to learn what I can before hand.

by all means be contradicting! :) you are correct, i mean don't have like a whole envelope full of air in there! all i do, is fold the piece of foil over...insert knife and start crimping over the edges, i don't PRESS on the envelope to flatten it. That is what I have always done and i think I had maybe one blade several years ago stick to the foil packet (which was some other brand of stuff) ...I found that two VERY good folds over on the edges along with using a seam roller on the long side and then a hammer on the ends to shut the envelope works well
 
Well gents, I appreciate all the info on the plate quenching, ect., but went to using ATP anti-scale coating and forced air. Seems to work fine. Decarb is very minimal,if at all. I was doing the A-2 HT for a friend, and don't use it myself, but he is well pleased with the results, as are his customers. Thanks again. Wick Ellerbe
 
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