Folder, what lube do you use?

I use either CLP, or some German light machine oil that I use on my tools.
I used to use Ballistol for some, but I hate the smell (WD-40 smells way better)

Peter
 
Hoppes #9 is a gun solvent - not a lube. RemOil is also a cleaner - but with a lube. Aerosol cans of it, available at Wally World, permit blasting innards with that little tube to dislodge grit and grime, yet leaves a fine oil after the solvent runs/evaporates away. Both it and BreakFree, also available at Wally World as an aerosol, contain minor amounts of Teflon as a solid in suspension. Shooter's Choice's FP-10 supposedly has a metal treatment, MT-10, as a component, but no solid lubricants.

I use mineral oil, a drop spread over - carefully - the entire length/side of a carbon steel blade for protection. SS knives get washed after use - and their blades are left dry. If I lived or stayed near the coast - salt spray - I'd use mineral oil on SS, too. It is an 'edible' oil, great for kitchen knives, and especially if you have constipation problems...

Three-n-one isn't the 'best' oil for anything. The lighter components evaporate away in time, leaving a thicker oil residue. In the home, immersed in dust, mainly from human skin cells, pet 'dander', wood dust, dried vegetation ash (cigarettes, etc!), etc, it 'accumulates' some - making goo. That gets thicker as the lighter oil components evaporate - like the resins thicken linseed oil. Add a small amount of metal, like the blade/mechanism as a catalyst like Japan Drier in a varnish, and it's easy to see why the result, in time, is like varnish... it likely is varnish! And - oil is normally a dielectric - and won't 'attract' dust - it just won't let it go once it lands on it.

Imagine how much 'dust' is in your lungs... But, to lessen the dust problem on your knives, keep your knives lubed in a tight display case.

Stainz
 
Gene Chapman said:
For years have used 3 in one oil for folders, lightly oiled, and excess wiped off. It has a unplesant smell in my opinion.

I looked in my shelves and came across a small bottle of J.D. Windle's clock oil, warrented not to thicken or corrode, also for mainspring and other keyless work and other fine mechanism.

Prize Medal Paris 1867 ( could it be whale oil)?

Entered at St___oners hall No. 21702

Made in England

This has almost no odor, anyone ever heard of it or have a source??
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I'm pretty sure its just mineral oil, they have different viscosities availble
check here
http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/7/1366/1629.aspx
or pick up some mineral oil at walgreens:D
ivan
 
Any of the above are fine as the only requirements for knife oil are a modicum of lubricity and, assuming reasonable care, a touch of corrosion preventative. There are no high speed, high heat, high friction factors. A can of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) will last your knives a lifetime, as well as your guns.
 
I use a (very) small bottle of Victorinox oil. It's food safe, so it's probably mineral oil.
 
Jasco butcher block oil (yup!!, mineral oil)
It says "meets FDA regulations"
Whatever that is.....

My back up is Rem Oil
 
deltablade said:
I have been using Ballistol and it works great
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Lots of products will work but IMO Ballistol is not suitable as a blade preservative as it is water miscible. Great for cleaning out blackpowder and lots of other things but it has a very distintive smell (stinks) and I wouldn't use it on a blade that's going to prepare food :barf:

This same question was recently asked on another forum and all of the above answers were presented - also baby oil & Renaissance Wax - but the final top 3 in order of merit were:
1 EEzox
2 TufGlide
3 RemOil
 
For folders I use Super Lube teflon based lubricant, I buy mine at my local auto parts stores. For anything I won't be using and want corrosion prevention I use AG Russells rust free.
 
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antonio_luiz said:
Lots of products will work but IMO Ballistol is not suitable as a blade preservative as it is water miscible. Great for cleaning out blackpowder and lots of other things but it has a very distintive smell (stinks) and I wouldn't use it on a blade that's going to prepare food :barf:
Click to expand...

Ballistol works fine on food prep blades, after about half an hour the alcohol and scent evaporate completely, and it becomes oderless and tasteless. Due to the water miscible thing I stopped using it for long term storage though, after finding two hermetically sealed cans where the inside had rusted turning the ballistol an opaque red color :barf: I'm not sure if that's due to the water solubility (which goes away once the alcohol evaporates) but I didn't want to risk it.

These days I use Weaponshield CLP for all my guns and non-food prep knives, for kitchen knives I use either no oil and just keep them clean or put a light coat of camellia flower oil on for storage.
 
I've been using Tuf-Glide for the past couple of years, before that I usually used Mobil 1 spray lube, but I haven't been able to find that for awhile now.
 
"tranny fluid"? ...Kinky! How hard do you have to squeeze one of them to get any fluid out?


... and I think moxie has the right answer. A very mild severity factor is involved in the mechanisms.
I use edible oils on my EDC's cuz' i like appled and cheese. On the Severtech I use Marvel, LPS or whatever I can get at work. Then I blow it all out with compressed air. The Fluid Film is like butter, really thick, so I just use that on the helicopters.
 
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