folding knife locks?

Will52100

Will52100

Joined
Dec 4, 2001
Messages
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Ok, I'm finally finishing up an order for 4 liner locks. After the umpteenth time of taking one apart and tweaking the lock to where I'm happy with it I got to thinking there's got to be an easier way. I've considered going with lock backs, but I really love the simplicity and ease of care of the liner lock when it's done rite. Trouble is it's a pain to get it where it unlocks easy when you want, but stays locked when you don't want it unlocking. Love the titanium for weight reduction as well. The thing I don't like about lock backs is a little pocket lint can screw the whole mechanism up, and I've had factory lock backs come unlocked as well.

Is there another lock system that is solid, easy to maintain and most importantly easy to manufacture for a non machinist?

What's your thoughts on the different locks out there?
 
Will52100 said:
I'm leaning that way. The liner lock is deceptively complicated to get rite.
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I am no knife maker but I have strong opinions on locks because of use on our cattle ranch. Knives got hard use there and liner locks were found to be unreliable at best. The lock back proved stronger and more reliable. The rule is, keep your knife relatively clean.
Also, with the right technique, a mid back lock is as easy to one hand close as a liner lock.
 
I'm thinking I'll give it lock backs a try.

I've been using/testing liner locks in the oil field for 15 years and out of all the locks out there the liner lock has held up the best in that environment. That's one that is fit up rite to where it's not hard to unlock and won't close accidentally either. Main reason they have worked for me is there easy to clean all the mud, grease, grime and chemicals off without taking apart. Also I'd have been better with a fixed blade, they got a lot of abuse, but even overseas a folder is easier to get away with. That said there not perfect, and the harsh environment takes a toll on them.
 
If you grind the notch in the blade at 11 degress with a 120 grit belt and leave it at that grit and size the leaf spring to fit with a 16 belt you should end up with zero problems on your liner locks. If you have a flat platen and a table and place a 1/8" thick piece of flat bar 7/8" away from the 120 grit belt - just tape it down with a couple of wraps of masking tape you will find that will give you the angle you need.
Frank
 
Interesting, I've been using an 8 degree lock bevel set up on my disk sander. Seems to work pretty good, but sometimes can be sticky if I don't get the lock face finished rite. The biggest issue I have is getting the lock easy to unlock and still be able to knock the back of the blade against my work bench without it unlocking. Or if I bear down on something while cutting it can get wedged tight enough it can be difficult to unlock.

I haven't tried the 11 degree angle, any issues with unlocking?

Thanks
 
I had that problem until I bought a carbidizer. I know it's possible to get a great lockup without it, but with the titanium lock bar faced with carbide, it's much easier to get a good lockup that doesn't bid when unlocking. You said non machinist, but if you have a small mill, you can follow the Terzuola method by grinding a small offset hollow in the blade lockface that makes the lockup very secure. The Terzuola book is online. I don't have the reference in front of me, but the website was referenced on Bladeforums in the past. With that method, the lockup is rock solid, and so far have not had any blades unlock accidentally.
Chip kunkle
 
Have you tried frame locks? Just a variation on the liner lock really but a little sturdier I think.
 
I'll look into the carbidizier, but thinking of getting away from liner locks period. I played with adding a safety, but I think that takes away from the simplicity of the lock.

The Terzuola book is what got me into making liner locks. I have a mill, but nothing to cut hardened stainless, I tried a cheap set of diamond hole saws and they didn't hold up very well. Might should have invested in some thing better.
 
Liner locks are the easiest to build. Around a 10 degree angle seems to work best for me.

I prefer a slip joint myself and is what I carry. Never really needed a lock on a folder.

I do like lockbacks, but from my experience liner locks sell better than lockbacks or slip joints.
 
Will52100 said:
I have a mill, but nothing to cut hardened stainless, I tried a cheap set of diamond hole saws and they didn't hold up very well. Might should have invested in some thing better.
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Solid carbide end mill.

Or what I do, cut/grind the lock angle before heat treating the blade.
 
Either of these reasonable to make without a mill at all? Asking as I am going to make some friction folders coming up but knowing myself it will lead to other folders as well.

Thanks!
 
From my experience, which I'm not a master folder maker and don't do that many, the one tool you really have to have is a good drill press. I primarily use my Smith 3 in 1 mill as a precision drill press. You can do it with a bench top, but check the run out and make sure the table is set dead on 90 deg. to the bit. Everything else could be done with a hack saw and files and purchase precision ground blade stock.

I've got carbide end mils, I may give that a try, but I know from doing the detent hole that it's slow going with CPM 154 and a carbide spade bit.

I think once I get this batch done and caught up I may try another lock back using my standard liner lock pattern, just modify it for lock back lock and use titanium for the liners. If it works out I'll carry it for a while and see how it performs.
 
Maelstrom78 said:
Either of these reasonable to make without a mill at all? Asking as I am going to make some friction folders coming up but knowing myself it will lead to other folders as well.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Any folders can be made without a mill. Actually the only thing I use a mill for on folders is cutting the nail nick on slip joints.
 
I have never had a return or conversation with a buyer over a sticky lock. The 120 face on the blade and the fine, at least 400, on the leaf are needed or the results are not the same. I have a disc grinder but don't use it for this job. As well a friend told me it just didn't work well for him.
Yes, liner locks are all I make and I enjoy the way they work. I even make some back pocket sizes that have finger pulls rather than thumb studs. Of course I think they are great. I keep thinking I should post a few for sale here and that may happen yet. Trouble is I no longer make many. There has never been the money need to have to make. On the other hand my folders are competitively priced for the quality and materials I use. I still haven't learned how to post. Sorry, or maybe to your advantage.
Frank
 
Ok thanks guys! I'm going to knock out some friction folders until I get the hang of it and then maybe start on a lockback for the next level of difficulty. That sound like a reasonable plan for a folder noob?
 
With an 11 deg angle have you had any issues of unlocking? Reason I as is I used a folder for about a year that had a 8 1/2 deg. lock and when it was new it locked up rite, unlocked easy and worked smooth. After a year in the oil field it started unlocking with just a bit of pressure on the back of the blade. To be fair not many other folders would have stood what this one went through.
 
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