folding knife locks?

Well if the set on the leaf spring was originally a bit week then I can see this happening. But placing all you can get on that leaf isn't an answer either.Again I say what were the grinds on the face and leaf. It has to be realized that the only thing working to keep your blade open is that leaf edge against the lock cut out. Another thing that causes some "odd" problems is cutting the liner too long on a liner lock using say .050 in thickness. If bent at the end of the cut when long the leaf wants to double back into the liner. Not an ideal lock set up. I use about 1 3/4" length or less is lots on folders even with knives having blades about 3 3/4" blades. I have not made any frame locks to reply on these. To see some of my work please go to customknifegalleryofcolorado
Frank
 
Yeah I've got two full sized knee mills, and use specialized machine tools where possible, but the only thing I do on my slipjoints with a mill, is cut integral dovetailed or radiused bolsters, and that's certainly not even remotely necessary to make top end slipjoints.

A surface grinder on the other hand, I wouldn't want to live without.


FWIW, Liner locks probably are easier to sell currently, but there's a big gap in the market for quality lock backs IMO, and I think they are, and will be making a strong resurgence. I keep meaning to make some myself. They're also a good foundation for numerous auto and assisted designs. The liner lock (and frame) market seems to be getting pretty saturated on the other hand.
 
If the Bob T. book is the "go to" for a tactical liner lock book, are there any good resources for lock backs?
I used to carry a lock back and loved it.
 
greenjebadiah said:
If the Bob T. book is the "go to" for a tactical liner lock book, are there any good resources for lock backs?
I used to carry a lock back and loved it.
Click to expand...

There's "The Lockback Folding Knife - From Design to Completion" by Peter Fronteddu and Stefen Steigerwald

It's quite good, although I'd think it difficult to follow for a stone beginner knifemaker. Measurements are in metric and materials are from a euro standpoint. Regardless, it covers the necessities well.
 
That book is good but there are a few "lost"areas in it, probably due to someone making mistakes on the proof reading.
Frank
 
Good looking knives Frank. The one I had issues with had a little longer than normal length lock bar, but like I said it worked perfect for close to a year and then all of the sudden it started coming unlocked, coming unlocked so easy you'd never known there was a lock. One of the first ones I did still locks up like a bank vault and I've worn the blade to the point where it needs regrinding to be efficient cutter again, and the stabilized Pecan handle slabs are pocket worn away from he edges of the ti.
 
Thank you. See now you have realized what a good folder a liner lock is. By the way I do make hunters too and even a few double bladed ones both blades out one end. There is lots of "room to move" in liner locks. One of the first about thirty-five years ago I took to work every day and had others as well as me use it. The blade was 440-C I replaced two blades in that test knife because we wore them out.Yes it had red micarta scales.
Frank
 
I've always been a fan of liner locks, just after having one fail like that kinda bugs me. Not to mention I have to take apart and put back together multiple times to get it rite, and sometimes they give me fits getting them rite.
 
Now a lock back sure can be good but let's us just say there is a minor hangup in it not noticed before you hammer it together.You won't get that one apart with a screw driver. If there's a chance I can help you further please use frankniro2@gmail.com
Frank
 
There is that, but I'm thinking I'd probably go with screws instead of pins. I've done a few slip joints years ago and it's not that big an issue to get rite before pinning, but it's still a mechanism that may require adjustment and I'd just as soon not have to drill out peened pins to get something apart. I've got an idea for a lock back that basically replicates my liner lock, just substitutes a lock back instead of liner lock, I'll make prototype and carry it a while and see how I like it.
 
IMO people make too big a deal about removing peened pins. Yes, it's a pain in the butt, and annoying when things don't go together quite right, but I can remove a pin as fast as you can dig out your torx driver, be careful not to scratch up the head, and unscrew. I can probably put another one in, just as fast also.

Only one that usually requires drilling and punching is the pivot, and believe me, I've had my fair share of knives that had no less than 5 attempts at the pivot. I still prefer pinning. YMMV of course. Nothing wrong with screws, and they make sense a lot of the time.
 
Finally I have seen a Frank Niro knife!!!!! Lol....those all look great Frank. We still need to get you where you can post here but thanks for sharing that website your do some really nice work.
 
Thank you for that Preston!
Hey, Will, perhaps consider the slip joints as well for some saleable folders. I've only peaked into a few pages of the social media thing but it seems to me slip joints are becoming more in demand than they were in the past.
Frank
 
Thanks, I'll check that out. Got a lot of figuring to do on stainless slip joints for the spring, the ones I did before were all carbon steel. Might do a few just for fun.
 
Is there any reason to use pins on a lock back instead of screws? I've been thinking of trying to make one but was going to use screws instead of pins.
 
Thanks. I ordered The Lockback Knife: From first Design to Completed Folding by Stefan Steigerwald and Peter Fronteddu and will try a lock back in a month or two.
 
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