1095 and W1/W2 are called water quench steel in the industry, but for the thickness of a knife blade, fast oil is more than fast enough. Cracking is a common problem with these steels without very good temperature control and quenching experience.
To avoid cracks, a thin wash of satanite will help.
Water is also only a term...brine is the actual quenchant.
Here is a past post of mine on the subject:
Brine quenching works very well.....about half the time. The other half ends up in two pieces of steel.
Brine quench is made up with 3 to 4 pounds of salt to five gallons of water. What you want is about an 8-10% solution. The old adage was, "enough salt to make the solution float a hard boiled egg." The blades are quenched in the warm brine, and if all goes well the steel converts into a rock hard martensite blade.....if it survives the quench and does not have the dreaded "PING", which is the sound of the blade tearing itself in half.
Parks #50 will get a good martensite blade with virtually no chance of the blade cracking or breaking in the quench. The final blade after tempering will be the same.
The only realm of brine quench is attaining the most active hamons, and getting sori on Japanese long blades. The steels used for this are very low in any alloy ingredients, and will survive the brine quench most of the time. 1095 has too much manganese and other alloys to brine quench safely.
With practice ( hundreds or thousands of quenches), a person will gain the ability to brine quench W-2 or 1095 with good results, but even a master will still break a fairly good number of blades. Most people are not willing to leave all those broken blades in the scrap can just to say, "I quenched this knife in brine."