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AntCaps

AntCaps

Joined
May 6, 2009
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Hey guys,
So since I'm just about to wrap up my last big project that's taken a few years to complete I started thinking about my next. I've always wanted a sword and if always loved fantasy art and games but I wanted something that wouldn't b pe impossible to swing and cut with.
So far this is what I've come up with


It has about a 20 inch blade that's 2ish inches wide right I front of the guard, it's deffinatly scimitar influenced.
Once I settle on a design I'll figure it what kind of steel I want to use and order it.
Anyways what do you Guys think? I know it's wide but with some math I figured out it should weigh a few ounces more than 3 pounds once it's ground.
 
It's a cool design, but I think 2" thick might be a bit extreme. It's not just weight, I think that thickness will affect its usability too. Two inches is like splitting wedge territory. I'm also thinking about the handle, if it's that thick plus handle material, I mean, I got orangutanishly big hands but I don't think I could hold that comfortably. I guess it would depend on how and where you were going to grind it. It could be an interesting experiment, but I think that thickness would make the whole thing unwieldy. An inch or an inch and a half might be more practical.
 
yea I meant width of the blade not thickness of the stock. I was thinking I'd go with 1/4inch for the initial stock thickness.
 
Great looking design!
Weight is a bit on the heavy side, but there definitely are some reproductions in the 3lb area.
 
3 lbs is exceedingly heavy for a 1 handed blade, imo....based upon 16 years of JSA training....used frequently, it will induce tendonitis in the elbow.

1/4" stock is unnecessarily thick for this blade, it's more of a slicer than chopper, so go thin to win!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
good point. Design a two handed or hand and a half handle then, and keep it at at least .250". You got a lot of taper built into that thru 2nd bevel.
 
A couple thoughts. First, I agree with STeven. Thinner stock would likely make you happier. I've used 1/4" stock before, and wasn't really happy with the balance. The balance point on that looks to be quite far forward (my guess would be roughly 5" up from the guard), and the steep bevel will likely end up with a relatively weak edge (I had that happen to a similar design of mine, using 1/4" 5160). I'd go with thinner stock and a shallower bevel for better durability and balance. Is this intended to be a slicer or a chopper? The curve and steep bevel suggest slicer, but the balance point and width indicate choppiness. Looks like an interesting blade.
 
How thin would you guys suggest as far as stock goes and also what steel? without going into the supers I'd love to make this thing out of 3v but the steel alone would cost 500 bucks(I'm Canadian). I know it would b heavy but for the amount of use a blade like this would get I don't know if it would be a real issue but the thinner stock might reduce it a bit and I could skeletonize the handle I'd actually love to taper the tang.
 
If it was mine I would distal taper the blade from 1/4 or 5/16" to almost nothing, ditto the tang. You could slim out the forte of that and pretty much have a mini-dao-and trim some weight at the same time.
5160 makes a fine sword-but 80CrV2 treated properly is impressive stuff.
 
80crv2 is in my price range and I was thinking of distal tapering from the widest point to the tip tapering the tang and I'm still thinking 1/4inch is about as thin as i want to go. I'd also probably leave it a little thick behind the edge I know I'd sacrafice some performance but I want edge stability. (And I'm sorry for any spelling errors I'm using my phone and my thumbs are fat)
 
I think once I'm home and can get on my computer a longer handle is a great suggestion not quite a full 2 handed grip but I like the hand and a half idea...might have to increase the blade length to match tho. I'll draw up a couple versions and see what thI experts have to say.
You guys are all a great help and I appreciate the feedback.
 
Didn't mention this before, but if you have the means to do convex geometry you will gain strength/edge stability (and gain cutting power IMO).
 
Hey guys,
I finally had a few minutes to myself on my computer and I changed up the design a bit.
I extended and slightly slimmed the handle, I added a slight bit of belly to the straight portion of the edge and I extended the blade about an inch.
The overall length is 30 inches the blade length is just over 21 inches and the handle is 8.5
 
Thanks GW,
I'm stoked I think I'll order the steel and possibly get the parts water jet cut with whatever tax refund I get this year.
For the handle I'm probably going to go with black g10 with red liners to match my other stupid big knife/sword.
Or some sort of wood but I really like smooth g10.
 
I printed of a template at full size, than I glued it to some 1/4inch hardboard and it was a little bigger than I expected.
I kinda like it tho, what I didn't like was how straight the handle was and I wanted a bigger choil so I made some mods to the drawing made another template and I'm in love with it. It feels good in hand (I added extra layers of board to the handle pommel and guard), now I just need to put aside some cash for steel and waterjet.
 
Ordered the steel from Aldo a few minutes ago, jeez with living in Canada the shipping and exchange rate I might as well be making this thing out of silver.
Now time to send in the drawings to a couple waterjet and laser cutting shops I know for quotes.
 
Got my blank cleaned up the edges and took off the surface rust left from the waterjet. I'll start firing the guard and pommel in the next few days.


 
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