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For your consideration

Discussion in 'Sword Discussion' started by AntCaps, Feb 9, 2016.

  1. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    Hey guys,
    So since I'm just about to wrap up my last big project that's taken a few years to complete I started thinking about my next. I've always wanted a sword and if always loved fantasy art and games but I wanted something that wouldn't b pe impossible to swing and cut with.
    So far this is what I've come up with
    [​IMG]

    It has about a 20 inch blade that's 2ish inches wide right I front of the guard, it's deffinatly scimitar influenced.
    Once I settle on a design I'll figure it what kind of steel I want to use and order it.
    Anyways what do you Guys think? I know it's wide but with some math I figured out it should weigh a few ounces more than 3 pounds once it's ground.
     
  2. GWashington1732

    GWashington1732 Basic Member Basic Member

    Jun 20, 2009
    It's a cool design, but I think 2" thick might be a bit extreme. It's not just weight, I think that thickness will affect its usability too. Two inches is like splitting wedge territory. I'm also thinking about the handle, if it's that thick plus handle material, I mean, I got orangutanishly big hands but I don't think I could hold that comfortably. I guess it would depend on how and where you were going to grind it. It could be an interesting experiment, but I think that thickness would make the whole thing unwieldy. An inch or an inch and a half might be more practical.
     
  3. gadunz

    gadunz

    Dec 4, 2012
    Width not thickness.
     
  4. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    yea I meant width of the blade not thickness of the stock. I was thinking I'd go with 1/4inch for the initial stock thickness.
     
  5. GWashington1732

    GWashington1732 Basic Member Basic Member

    Jun 20, 2009
    Ah, that makes more sense then doesn't it? My bad.
     
  6. Schmoopy

    Schmoopy

    71
    Oct 3, 2014
    Great looking design!
    Weight is a bit on the heavy side, but there definitely are some reproductions in the 3lb area.
     
  7. Kohai999

    Kohai999 Second Degree Cutter Platinum Member

    Jul 15, 2003
    3 lbs is exceedingly heavy for a 1 handed blade, imo....based upon 16 years of JSA training....used frequently, it will induce tendonitis in the elbow.

    1/4" stock is unnecessarily thick for this blade, it's more of a slicer than chopper, so go thin to win!

    Best Regards,

    STeven Garsson
     
  8. Lorien

    Lorien Moderator Moderator

    Dec 5, 2005
    good point. Design a two handed or hand and a half handle then, and keep it at at least .250". You got a lot of taper built into that thru 2nd bevel.
     
  9. crimsonfalcon07

    crimsonfalcon07

    Dec 27, 2010
    A couple thoughts. First, I agree with STeven. Thinner stock would likely make you happier. I've used 1/4" stock before, and wasn't really happy with the balance. The balance point on that looks to be quite far forward (my guess would be roughly 5" up from the guard), and the steep bevel will likely end up with a relatively weak edge (I had that happen to a similar design of mine, using 1/4" 5160). I'd go with thinner stock and a shallower bevel for better durability and balance. Is this intended to be a slicer or a chopper? The curve and steep bevel suggest slicer, but the balance point and width indicate choppiness. Looks like an interesting blade.
     
  10. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    How thin would you guys suggest as far as stock goes and also what steel? without going into the supers I'd love to make this thing out of 3v but the steel alone would cost 500 bucks(I'm Canadian). I know it would b heavy but for the amount of use a blade like this would get I don't know if it would be a real issue but the thinner stock might reduce it a bit and I could skeletonize the handle I'd actually love to taper the tang.
     
  11. J W Bensinger

    J W Bensinger

    Mar 26, 2009
    If it was mine I would distal taper the blade from 1/4 or 5/16" to almost nothing, ditto the tang. You could slim out the forte of that and pretty much have a mini-dao-and trim some weight at the same time.
    5160 makes a fine sword-but 80CrV2 treated properly is impressive stuff.
     
  12. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    80crv2 is in my price range and I was thinking of distal tapering from the widest point to the tip tapering the tang and I'm still thinking 1/4inch is about as thin as i want to go. I'd also probably leave it a little thick behind the edge I know I'd sacrafice some performance but I want edge stability. (And I'm sorry for any spelling errors I'm using my phone and my thumbs are fat)
     
  13. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    I think once I'm home and can get on my computer a longer handle is a great suggestion not quite a full 2 handed grip but I like the hand and a half idea...might have to increase the blade length to match tho. I'll draw up a couple versions and see what thI experts have to say.
    You guys are all a great help and I appreciate the feedback.
     
  14. J W Bensinger

    J W Bensinger

    Mar 26, 2009
    Didn't mention this before, but if you have the means to do convex geometry you will gain strength/edge stability (and gain cutting power IMO).
     
  15. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    Hey guys,
    I finally had a few minutes to myself on my computer and I changed up the design a bit.
    I extended and slightly slimmed the handle, I added a slight bit of belly to the straight portion of the edge and I extended the blade about an inch.
    The overall length is 30 inches the blade length is just over 21 inches and the handle is 8.5
    [​IMG]
     
  16. GWashington1732

    GWashington1732 Basic Member Basic Member

    Jun 20, 2009
    That looks pretty badass now.
     
  17. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    Thanks GW,
    I'm stoked I think I'll order the steel and possibly get the parts water jet cut with whatever tax refund I get this year.
    For the handle I'm probably going to go with black g10 with red liners to match my other stupid big knife/sword.
    Or some sort of wood but I really like smooth g10.
     
  18. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    I printed of a template at full size, than I glued it to some 1/4inch hardboard and it was a little bigger than I expected.
    I kinda like it tho, what I didn't like was how straight the handle was and I wanted a bigger choil so I made some mods to the drawing made another template and I'm in love with it. It feels good in hand (I added extra layers of board to the handle pommel and guard), now I just need to put aside some cash for steel and waterjet.
     
  19. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    Ordered the steel from Aldo a few minutes ago, jeez with living in Canada the shipping and exchange rate I might as well be making this thing out of silver.
    Now time to send in the drawings to a couple waterjet and laser cutting shops I know for quotes.
     
  20. AntCaps

    AntCaps Gold Member Gold Member

    834
    May 6, 2009
    Got my blank cleaned up the edges and took off the surface rust left from the waterjet. I'll start firing the guard and pommel in the next few days.


    [​IMG]
     

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