Forced mustard patina not working on Becker bk-9

Loosechange

Loosechange

Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
64
My first post, and yes I did read FAQ and typed in multiple ways on different forums to find an answer and alas no luck as of yet so here is my very first post

I am not Per-sa a knife person but i do like the use of a different blade for a different function ...hence different steels and different shapes and sizes etc... of coarse when it all comes down to it, it’s reality it’s not always the proper knife for the proper job In all cases sometime it’s just will it do the job.

I have zt’s I have moras benchmades from 154cm to D2. I have Gerber LHR original gerber mark 2 from like the 70s or 80’s something or other, mission titanium mpk12 , Vintage cold steels ancient shrades and knife of Alaska an Emerson, esee’s , my favorite is the 0riginal Sykes/Fairbain with the England stamp I found in the ocean encrusted so thick with barnacles it actually protected the leather..knife in perfect condition. the list does go on but this is about my Becker bk-9 and what am I doing wrong question
.. however here’s my concern.

I know that KaBar uses the term 1095 Cro-Van and I am trying to do two things with this knife... hopefully get it to hold a nice etch with ferric chloride and maybe try to patina it with mustard.. so hears what’s up.

I used jasco premium paint and epoxy remover and it wrinkled that black finish right off within about 30 minutes or so, I’m really impressed, it’s a beautiful blade “naked”, (although the zytel handles could be better... so Micarta will be on the list) but

I gloved up and masked the edge with gorilla tape and the spine. I must admit... it is difficult to work with tape and gloves on, it really sticks to the gloves big time.

I used good red nail polish and blotched the upper part of the side of the blade and left the middle section blank for a later dip with the FC.

looking for self adhesive vinyl? Go to Michaels arts and crafts they have it

. Ok so that’s done but I wanted to try an etching with my battery charger at 12v/2amp setting. I have my kosher salt, my set of little jumpers with clamps, cotton q-tips and that’s it. I am going to do a little testing where the grips are so if I mess up you won’t see it anyway.. guess what?

I tried and tried and it is Not etching anything well at all, I mean it’s not pulling up color from the metal , did it that same spot for about 20 minutes and after removing the tape I got barely any discoloration or etch... cleaned it up with 0000 steel wool and really nothing there

While doing the dabbing I got no bubbling, no smell etc. and yes the charger works and I have continuity with the jumpers.

Could it be that the cro-van is keeping it from etching like in youtube?

I even tried utilize a mustard patina style for a part of the blade and got nothing at all, zero. After two hours sitting not a mark not a discoloration ....

However I can tell you nail polish works the paint pens I bought do not.

Sorry long post but I guess my question is:

Why did the forced mustard patina trick not work at all.. I’m a chef/ cook that’s works with meats and veg for 10 hours a day I could get a real patina on it after a while but I digress...

yes I cleaned blade with acetone and wore gloves and used French’s mustard. I got nothing. I also didn’t get the results that I was expecting for the whole application process for using electro-salt water etching? Is it because the blade Although 1095 has a cro-van mix.


Thank You for your patience big time
 
Welcome to the forum and you showed up with the King:thumbsup:. One question..Positive lead on the blade and negative on the Q-tip
 
Tanker 1/66: thank you for the reply.

Yes I did use the positive lead to the blade and negative clipped to the q-tip.

That was biggest concern why it didn’t work for the salt thing.

As for mustard that’s just weird that it didn’t do anything at all? I left it the second time for about two hours or more and nothing :(

Ironic your handle is tanker 1/66.
From 88-92 I worked on m1’s and m1a1’s. Bradley’s, 113,577, deuce and half’s and 5 tons when I was in fort hood. I was 3/32 ar.. hooah!
 
Loosechange said:
Tanker 1/66: thank you for the reply.

Yes I did use the positive lead to the blade and negative clipped to the q-tip.

That was biggest concern why it didn’t work for the salt thing.

As for mustard that’s just weird that it didn’t do anything at all? I left it the second time for about two hours or more and nothing :(

Ironic your handle is tanker 1/66.
From 88-92 I worked on m1’s and m1a1’s. Bradley’s, 113,577, deuce and half’s and 5 tons when I was in fort hood. I was 3/32 ar.. hooah!
Click to expand...
1st Cavalry Hooah. I left Hood in 86. 2nd Armor Hell on Wheels Thank You for your Service
 
Loosechange Loosechange I mix my salt with vinegar and haven't had an issue. And I've used Gouldens spicy brown with good results. Texas Pete hot sauce works well to. If the blade is polished it doesn't take very well.
 
I think somehow in the stripping, you left a coating on the blade. Try roughing it with sandpaper, or gritcloth.
 
Not sure the order of the steps you've taken? Deepening the Etch should be first before stripping. Very important not to have any oil or dirt on the etch. I use rubbing alcohol to clean it. Same with forcing a patina clean first :D here's some pics
IMG_2212.JPG IMG_2215.JPG IMG_2213.JPG IMG_2211.JPG IMG_2216.JPG IMG_2209.JPG IMG_2208.JPG IMG_2214.JPG IMG_2210.JPG IMG_2217.JPG
Now would be the time to strip the paint if you wanted to :thumbsup:
 
Loosechange said:
My first post, and yes I did read FAQ and typed in multiple ways on different forums to find an answer and alas no luck as of yet so here is my very first post

I am not Per-sa a knife person but i do like the use of a different blade for a different function ...hence different steels and different shapes and sizes etc... of coarse when it all comes down to it, it’s reality it’s not always the proper knife for the proper job In all cases sometime it’s just will it do the job.

I have zt’s I have moras benchmades from 154cm to D2. I have Gerber LHR original gerber mark 2 from like the 70s or 80’s something or other, mission titanium mpk12 , Vintage cold steels ancient shrades and knife of Alaska an Emerson, esee’s , my favorite is the 0riginal Sykes/Fairbain with the England stamp I found in the ocean encrusted so thick with barnacles it actually protected the leather..knife in perfect condition. the list does go on but this is about my Becker bk-9 and what am I doing wrong question
.. however here’s my concern.

I know that KaBar uses the term 1095 Cro-Van and I am trying to do two things with this knife... hopefully get it to hold a nice etch with ferric chloride and maybe try to patina it with mustard.. so hears what’s up.

I used jasco premium paint and epoxy remover and it wrinkled that black finish right off within about 30 minutes or so, I’m really impressed, it’s a beautiful blade “naked”, (although the zytel handles could be better... so Micarta will be on the list) but

I gloved up and masked the edge with gorilla tape and the spine. I must admit... it is difficult to work with tape and gloves on, it really sticks to the gloves big time.

I used good red nail polish and blotched the upper part of the side of the blade and left the middle section blank for a later dip with the FC.

looking for self adhesive vinyl? Go to Michaels arts and crafts they have it

. Ok so that’s done but I wanted to try an etching with my battery charger at 12v/2amp setting. I have my kosher salt, my set of little jumpers with clamps, cotton q-tips and that’s it. I am going to do a little testing where the grips are so if I mess up you won’t see it anyway.. guess what?

I tried and tried and it is Not etching anything well at all, I mean it’s not pulling up color from the metal , did it that same spot for about 20 minutes and after removing the tape I got barely any discoloration or etch... cleaned it up with 0000 steel wool and really nothing there

While doing the dabbing I got no bubbling, no smell etc. and yes the charger works and I have continuity with the jumpers.

Could it be that the cro-van is keeping it from etching like in youtube?

I even tried utilize a mustard patina style for a part of the blade and got nothing at all, zero. After two hours sitting not a mark not a discoloration ....

However I can tell you nail polish works the paint pens I bought do not.

Sorry long post but I guess my question is:

Why did the forced mustard patina trick not work at all.. I’m a chef/ cook that’s works with meats and veg for 10 hours a day I could get a real patina on it after a while but I digress...

yes I cleaned blade with acetone and wore gloves and used French’s mustard. I got nothing. I also didn’t get the results that I was expecting for the whole application process for using electro-salt water etching? Is it because the blade Although 1095 has a cro-van mix.


Thank You for your patience big time
Click to expand...
If you notice my 15 etch is not deepened :p I had the positive on the salted q-tip and negative to ground , that combo will not work ! Hope the above pics can help you get through :thumbsup: good luck and keep with updates :D
 
Xr6x said:
If you notice my 15 etch is not deepened :p I had the positive on the salted q-tip and negative to ground , that combo will not work ! Hope the above pics can help you get through :thumbsup: good luck and keep with updates :D
Click to expand...
Lol I did that once. Had the red alligator clip hooked to the blade and the other end hooked to the negative Duhhhhh
 
I appreciate all The input absolutely

I cleaned the entire blade with acetone... however I only prepped it with steel wool I did not sand it at all because it has these micro grooved from the spine to the edge really cool I thought it would contribute to the pattern so yes cleaned but not sanded first

Also, positive to blade and negative to qtip

Tanker 1/66 I got to hood in 88 and 2nd AD was deactivated there about yvst sane time
 
Last edited:
Loosechange said:
I appreciate all The input absolutely

I cleaned the entire blade with acetone... however I only prepped it with steel wool I did not sand it at all because it has these micro grooved from the spine to the edge really cool I thought it would contribute to the pattern so yes cleaned but not sanded first

Also, positive to blade and negative to qtip

Tanker 1/66 I got to hood in 88 and 2nd AD was deactivated there about yvst sane time
Click to expand...
After I left in 86 the whole division fell apart without my Tanker skills. That's the real reason they deactivated 2AD:D
 
non chlorinated brake cleaner to strip the factory coating off
then stab into a onion and let sit 15-20 minutes then wash with soap and water
 
That my friends is so true... when I left 3/32 ar they reclassified to 1/12 bde not 6 months later I think. Any way sorry to chit chat on the board instead of knife talk... I just don’t really get to talk to many DAT’s anymore... unless I feel like hanging out at the va. Not.

ok your not a d.a.t. maybe just a s.t.u.m.p ? Lol

take care and pm if you want it’s kewl to talk to a cav vet when it’s possible.
 
Loosechange said:
That my friends is so true... when I left 3/32 ar they reclassified to 1/12 bde not 6 months later I think. Any way sorry to chit chat on the board instead of knife talk... I just don’t really get to talk to many DAT’s anymore... unless I feel like hanging out at the va. Not.

ok your not a d.a.t. maybe just a s.t.u.m.p ? Lol

take care and pm if you want it’s kewl to talk to a cav vet when it’s possible.
Click to expand...
This is your thread you can chat all ya like:thumbsup: And for the record I'm a CDAT. Computerized Dumb Ass Tanker I was M1s not a lowly M60a3 Tanker:D
 
Oh that is so good. Yes I can see that. We had no m60’s those were all given to some engendering Corp and made into bridge layers

It amazed me how we did it lose so many loaders to missing fingers or arms... those ammo doors were fast as hell when they closed. Geez I mean fast as hell.

I want to try to figure what the army used in the paint as an aggregate (to confuse radar I heard) anyway it was like rocks were added to the paint when they were painted to head out to Saudi Arabia for us. I want that for my handles . That paint was like grippy and didn’t chip off for anything. Scrapped a lot skin climbing up on those tanks to pull the grates off to get to the final drives so I could pull the entire pack

I was h-8 qualified and a rigger driver and mech all in one in the m-88 medium recovery vehicle

If your stuff was broke dick on the front line I was the one to leave the AO find you and hook you up and get you to the closest area to work on it.

120mm artillary from iraq didn’t have enough ummph to do anything to our tank but maybe blow the hub seals on the torsion bars of the tanks we had hooah!
 
I’d rather hang with a dat than a stump
Stupid tanker under mechanics protection... at least dats cared about some operational maintenance. Not the stumps. They didn’t care on bit about even making sure wedge pins were still in place. If some were missing it didn’t matter.... they took foil and made a mold of a wedge and pin that was on the track then stuck the foil where the missing one was and painted it to look like the rest... oh wait that was mechanics , never mind lol
 
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