forge. I need a forge.

koyote

koyote

Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
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Well, on a good day I can get a good heat treat out of my made up mapp forge, but I really need something better- I know there have been threads about this but I'm having a hard time finding what I need to know.

I can either go charcoal, or buy something for propane. What I've got locally amount tyo stones and dirt, and access to some large steel pipe.

So, who's selling what and how much, or is a charcoal forge going to be good enough to go with?

I'm mostly doing heat treating, but want to start in on forging as soon as I have something better in the forge department.
 
I run two forges. One horizontal for forging, and one vertical (similar to Don Fogg's) for heat treating.

You can build these yourself with a little "scrounging" and the help of Darren Ellis.

Do a search on Darren Ellis, and it will lead you to his site. Great guy to deal with, and very knowledgeable on forge construction.

Robert
 
OR You could add up the total cost of everything you have to buy to make one and the shipiing costs....Then go to Ebay and buy a Professional already made one for just a little bit more!
 
I sold my coke forge, last year. Good riddance:barf:

I run two gas forges. One to forge and one to heat treat.

You can build one, I did. Fred
 
+1 on Darren, he is a great guy to work with and his prices are fair. He will always make his orders right, even if the problem was caused by the shipping company.
 
looks like darren is on vacation right now, I'll have tyo be patient :) I might be able to get some insulation and bricks soon. Finding a body around here may be the hardest part. Maybe I'll hit the university junk shop and see what's there.
 
Blue Sky said:
Do you find a vertical forge an advantage for heat treating?
Click to expand...

You betcha........ Flame comes in at the bottom of the vertical forge, and the blade goes in at the top portion.

No direct flame (other than a little "dragon's breath") gets on the blade. This totally eliminates hot-spots.

With a thermocouple (placed at the same level as the blade) and digital readout, I can dial my desired temp right in.

I use one burner for both forges. Just slide the burner out of one and into the other.

Robert
 
My heat treating forge is a vertical set up. A 24"x4" tube, suspended inside an insulated forge. The thermocouple is inside the tube which has a hinged door on top. I suspend blades from a jig down inside the tube and dial a set temp on a Watlow digital controller. Fred

agj.jpg
 
I've been seeing some normally aspirated forges and some blower forges. Now, I live near enough sea level as makes no difference (and if greenland melts I'll be moving), and it seems from tyhe reading thaty I'll be okay- for that matter my clay coated cinderblock forge gets hot enough eventually (most of the time.) I didn't know to put wood ash in the clay at the time, though.

I have spent days out here looking for appropriate tubing and the best I can find is one gallon paint cans, which I might be able to use with insulating bedding. (unless stovepipe would work with a nice thick layer of bedding on the inside.)

since I have a propane torch already, and a converter to hook up to larger bottles, do I really need to mess with making/buying a burner setup right now? If I have bricks and/or wool, that seems the only really hard part. I mean, if I needed to I could make a lined adobe forge body.
 
I'm having a hard time coming up with a body using the thick wool. Had a 10" pipe all cut and ready but there's not enough room to put a muffel in there after insulating. Thinking about either rolling up a double layer of 20 gauge sheet metal or using a couple old propane bottles welded together. Is the galvanized sheet metal going to get hot enough to poison me with fumes outside if it's insulated with 2+" wool and refractory? The idea of cutting old propane bottles scares the crap out of me unless I can fill them with water first.
 
koyote said:
I've been seeing some normally aspirated forges and some blower forges. Now, I live near enough sea level as makes no difference (and if greenland melts I'll be moving), and it seems from tyhe reading thaty I'll be okay- for that matter my clay coated cinderblock forge gets hot enough eventually (most of the time.) I didn't know to put wood ash in the clay at the time, though.

I have spent days out here looking for appropriate tubing and the best I can find is one gallon paint cans, which I might be able to use with insulating bedding. (unless stovepipe would work with a nice thick layer of bedding on the inside.)

since I have a propane torch already, and a converter to hook up to larger bottles, do I really need to mess with making/buying a burner setup right now? If I have bricks and/or wool, that seems the only really hard part. I mean, if I needed to I could make a lined adobe forge body.
Click to expand...

I have a piece of double insulated stove pipe that is 6" inside dia. Your welcome to a piece of it. I live about 1 1/2 hr drive from you , up interstate 80. I've been thinking of useing it for a small forge, but there is probably enough for two. It's 36" long. Bet it would make a nice vertical forge for heat treat.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
My heat treating forge is a vertical set up. A 24"x4" tube, suspended inside an insulated forge. The thermocouple is inside the tube which has a hinged door on top. I suspend blades from a jig down inside the tube and dial a set temp on a Watlow digital controller. Fred
Click to expand...

Fred.......... You have entirely too much nice equipment there old boy:D

You should come on down to Alabama and let me show you how us red-necks do it. My forge blower is out of a trashed dishwasher, and my burner is home-made.

I can reach welding temps and beyond easily with this crude set-up.

If I get a chance, I will post a few pics in the next day or so.

Robert
 
Robert Dark said:
You betcha........ Flame comes in at the bottom of the vertical forge, and the blade goes in at the top portion.

No direct flame (other than a little "dragon's breath") gets on the blade. This totally eliminates hot-spots.

With a thermocouple (placed at the same level as the blade) and digital readout, I can dial my desired temp right in.

I use one burner for both forges. Just slide the burner out of one and into the other.

Robert
Click to expand...


Thanks, I appreciate the insight.:)
 
Robert Dark said:
Fred.......... You have entirely too much nice equipment there old boy:D

You should come on down to Alabama and let me show you how us red-necks do it. My forge blower is out of a trashed dishwasher, and my burner is home-made.

I can reach welding temps and beyond easily with this crude set-up.

If I get a chance, I will post a few pics in the next day or so.

Robert
Click to expand...
Robert,

I have a good friend, from down your way, that built his entire house, out of beer cans. He always told me that, Alabamians, where the most inventive folks on earth.
The trips to the carryout, to get cold ones, to use for building materials, slowed the building of his house, a little. But, he seemed OK with that.:D UL

I do admit; I love machinery. My wife says a little too much.
The heat treat forge, is a revamp of my first attempt at building a horizontal forge. :barf::confused:ha ha
You learn as you go, hopefully.:D

I'll be watching for your Maytag, forge pictures.
Take a couple of the shop.
Do you have lectric?:D

I'll be bringing a chopper to the hammerin.

I get down your way I'll take you up on that invite.

Fred
 
oldwolf said:
I have a piece of double insulated stove pipe that is 6" inside dia. Your welcome to a piece of it. I live about 1 1/2 hr drive from you , up interstate 80. I've been thinking of useing it for a small forge, but there is probably enough for two. It's 36" long. Bet it would make a nice vertical forge for heat treat.
Click to expand...

Might be fun to head up into the hills for a day :)
 
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