Forty Dollar 4 Max Unbelievable!

Set the new 4 Max up for my orientation, added a lanyard: ready to EDC.

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My second Scout from that heckuva deal arrived today. Pretty much perfect in every way. Comparing it to my older logo pre-GSM one, I can find no glaring differences.

If I’m being super scrutinous, the new one has a more even edge grind (not that the first one was bad by any means, both came sharp as all get out), and the texture on the new one’s grip feels slightly rougher, which is probably just because the other one has been pocketed and handled a lot.

Still think it’s the best value going, and probably the best $40 something I’ve ever spent on a brand new knife. That said, although I have the urge to scoop up more just because of the price, I can’t really foresee wearing these two (and the Elite) out in my lifetime, so I’ll probably exhibit some self control...

… buuuut I might grab one of those AD15 Lites, which I didn’t see when I got the new Scout lol.
 
The actions on these GSM knives are not great imo. I have two 10A Spartans and my old AUS-8A Spartan was a lot smoother. But the lock is solid on both of my new Spartans and they came factory sharp with good blade centering.
 
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PsychoSword said:
The actions on these GSM knives are not great imo. I have two 10A Spartans and my old 8AUSA Spartan was a lot smoother. But the lock is solid on both of my new Spartans and they came factory sharp with good blade centering.
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My experience has been a little different, but also mixed bag. My GSM Spartan AUS10 and the GSM Scout I got yesterday were both smooth out of the box. Not as glassy as my AD10’s or pre-GSM Scout, but pretty dang good, and I expect they’ll get better. Those AD10’s are really dialed in well.

Both the GSM SR1 and Bush Ranger I recently received were kinda sluggish when I got them, so I got curious and took them apart. I found 3 (yes, 3) teflon washers (no PB washers) in the SR1 and only 2 teflon washers in the Bush Ranger. I replaced both with just PB, and they’re both much better now. In fact, the Bush Ranger is very good now after wearing in.

I find it really hard to complain, given the prices I paid and because they were such an easy fix. I’ve also had to keep in mind they’re not bearing pivot knives, which many of my more expensive knives have been for years, so it’s kinda weird going back to simpler tech and having to sort of readjust my expectations.
 
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Lynn Thompsons quality control was much better ; he said in an interview there were times a whole skid or shipment would be rejected because they were sub par. I think in todays environment and w all the competition, theres no way that can happen any more..I got a 5 max recently quality was amazing fit finish lockup all perfect.....
 
goldie said:
Lynn Thompsons quality control was much better ; he said in an interview there were times a whole skid or shipment would be rejected because they were sub par. I think in todays environment and w all the competition, theres no way that can happen any more..I got a 5 max recently quality was amazing fit finish lockup all perfect.....
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Yea, the new ones are decent, but seem a bit rougher. Not as refined as the pre-GSM or even GSM models shortly after the take over of them and SOG. I think they are now on the playbook of "we can toss turds out there as long as we label it as CPM-3V."
 
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I was going to return to the site and get an AD15 Lite, since those are on sale too and I missed seeing it when I got the last Scout…

…but I stumbled on a gently loved black/od S35 model on the big auction site that accepted my cheapskate offer instead. Yeah, it was more than the $45 that site is selling the Lite for, but it ended up being about half off retail pretty much anywhere for the OG-er version. I won’t miss not having the box to throw in the pile at that price.


And no, it isn’t a clone, but dang there are a LOT out there.
 
Centermass said:
Black/OD AD15 arrived today. Pretty nifty. Scorpion Lock mechanism takes some getting used to, but I definitely like it.
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Tri-Ad works for me, I'm a simpleton. If it works, why fix it. Usually the only "uprade" is not one, but something to sell more. Sales!!
 
PsychoSword said:
Tri-Ad works for me, I'm a simpleton. If it works, why fix it. Usually the only "uprade" is not one, but something to sell more. Sales!!
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They seem to be doing fine in that regard.

I agree the Triad Lock is fantastic, and I definitely prefer it to this newfangled thing… but remember this is a knife enthusiast site, where most of us are easily convinced to spend our money on the new and unusual, not just the tried and true.

If I were only allowed to have one knife, it’d probably have a triad lock.
 
I kinda like the scorpion lock. prefer the tri-ad. as there hasn't been a lock this strong or smart made since.

way I close scorpion is i pinch grip the back lock bar with thumb and middle finger and use pointer finger to push spine side of the blade towards close and it unlocks quickly and easily. it's a neat one handed lock setup and still very strong.
 
jbmonkey said:
I kinda like the scorpion lock. prefer the tri-ad. as there hasn't been a lock this strong or smart made since.

way I close scorpion is i pinch grip the back lock bar with thumb and middle finger and use pointer finger to push spine side of the blade towards close and it unlocks quickly and easily. it's a neat one handed lock setup and still very strong.
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Yep, I figured that method out last night. And I’m getting better at the standard “wedge the index finger between the lock bar and frame then shake closed.”

Also realized that like a lot of framelocks, it pays to be conscientious about keeping off the lock bar when opening. I’m warming up to the thing.
 
jbmonkey said:
I kinda like the scorpion lock. prefer the tri-ad. as there hasn't been a lock this strong or smart made since.

way I close scorpion is i pinch grip the back lock bar with thumb and middle finger and use pointer finger to push spine side of the blade towards close and it unlocks quickly and easily. it's a neat one handed lock setup and still very strong.
Click to expand...

Centermass said:
Yep, I figured that method out last night. And I’m getting better at the standard “wedge the index finger between the lock bar and frame then shake closed.”

Also realized that like a lot of framelocks, it pays to be conscientious about keeping off the lock bar when opening. I’m warming up to the thing.
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I pinch the bar between all my fingers and the base (meaty part) of my thumb, and use my thumb on the thumbstud to close it all the way. That way none of my fingers are in the way and I can fully close it without any shaking. And yes, definitely have to be careful not to put any pressure on the lockbar when opening.
 
the ad10 lites are on a pretty good sale at that place right now too.....
 
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