Found my lost knife, need advice.

J

jwv3

Joined
Feb 5, 2001
Messages
25
I just recoverd my Benchmade AFCK from a melting pile of plowed snow. Its been there frozen in road salt, dirt and snow for about a week now. Finally the weather here in NY is melting the piles and I found it. Thats the good news.

The bad news is it is packed with dirt and salt. The M2 blade is rusty were the coating is worn and also along the edge. The blade is half open, but I didn't try to move it. I don't want to grind up the bearing surface of the pivot. I tried a can of compressed air, but only about half the grime came out. Should I soak it in something? Should I take it apart?

Thanks.
 
I would scrub it down with Simple Green, or some other detergent and hot water, then dry it with compressed air or a blow dryer. Then spray it down with Break Free or Corrosion X and let it soak overnight. Wipe off excess and you're good to go.
 
After what it`s been through a cycle through the dishwasher would likely not hurt it.Dry it out like Clayton said and then lube the heck out of it.
 
Rinse it out under warm water until the salt dissolves and the sand washes away. Clean it with dishwashing liquid and water like you'd clean your tableware. Dry it with paper towels. Wipe down the blade with some good oil(RemOil, Break Free, etc.). Lube the pivot point with the oil. If necessary wipe the blade with TufCloth also.
 
Thanks for the help. I'm going at it with compressed air and penetrating oil and some acid brushes. The problem is the pivot feels so gritty, I'm afraid to move it as I don't want to trash the bearing surfaces. Should I take it apart? The large torx screw on the pivot looks like it took some abuse from the snow plow. Here is a sad pic.

http://www.geocities.com/breitensteini/sadbm800.jpg
 
Take it appart, do not risk anything else!

If you want help, I will tell you step by step what to do.

W.A.

------------------
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
Certified steel snob!
 
I second the General's suggestion. Take the darn thing apart; it is the only way to get to the inner surfaces.

Damn the warranty! Full torx ahead!!

Walt
 
I can't tell, but it looks like the blade has rust on it (or is it dirt?).

He may have to use:

1. Steel wool.

2. Chemical rust remover.

Will tuff cloth suffice for him in sealing the blade from further oxidation?


[This message has been edited by Full Tang Clan (edited 02-10-2001).]
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Walt Welch:


Damn the warranty! Full torx ahead!! </font>
Click to expand...

biggrin.gif
LOL!
biggrin.gif


Tear that bad boy open- you can save it, it's not going to be as bad as you think!

Be sure to post how it went with an "after" pic. Good Luck!

Firebat

------------------
Name's Ash......Housewares.
 
If that BT2 coating is scratched up maybe you should consider bead-blasting the thing. It will look alot better, and it will remove all of the rust. If you have to use any type of steel wool or solvent anyway, it may be your best bet. Mine looks awesome with the BB finish.

------------------
firedept_md_wht.gif
"Don't interfere with anything in the Constitution. That must be maintained, for it is the only safeguard of our liberties.
----Abraham Lincoln

[This message has been edited by remster135 (edited 02-10-2001).]
 
I strongly advise against bead blasting M2. The stuff is prone to rusting anyway, and with a bead blast, it will be even moreso. Remember, posters have reported ATS-34 bead blasted blades rusting easily.

Buff the blade to a satin finish. It is probably not worth it to have the blade recoated, although you are free to investigate this possibility. Walt
 
Well, it's back together. Thanks for the words of encoragement. It wasn't that bad. I had envisioned spring loaded parts flying everywere; not so. After picking out chips and burs, I got the torx bit to fit in the screw head. The worst of the damage is a good ding in the corner of the Ti liner and g10 scale. I had to file the liner a bit to get the scale to sit flat again. Other than that, it's good to go. Scratches and scuffs don't show up much on the g10.

Here are the after pic's as per request.

http://www.geocities.com/breitensteini/bm800after.jpg

This is the ding in the liner and scale:

http://www.geocities.com/breitensteini/bm800after2.jpg


FullTangClan: Yes, that is (was) rust. I took some 0000 steel wool to it very lightly as to not remove much of the coating. All that is left is some small spots of discoloration were the worst of it was.
 
Cool- glad you got it fixed!

Firebat

------------------
Name's Ash......Housewares.
 
(Phew!) Even though it's someone else's blade, it gives me the shivers to see it on the operating table in critical condition.

Good work doctor, it's good to see the patient is up and walking about!
wink.gif
 
I'm a little late for effect, but...

I'd begin by thanking your lucky stars that you found the damn thing to begin with
biggrin.gif


Brandon
 
You may wish to treat the blade chemically with some sort of rust remover (I use a phosphoric based one). Otherwise, if there is rust in a pit, it will continue to spread despite a rust preventive coating over the pit. However, I must say your blade looks clean.

Walt
 
My advice, keep yours as a user and buy my LNIB A.F.C.K in M2 HS Steel (Partially Serrated); it's up for sale on the Board.

Now some might think that my advice is self-serving and they would be ... well, ... correct.
smile.gif


Good job getting your knife up and running. They are tough bastids, ain't they?
 
Glad she is fixed! I want to agree with Walt on the rust treatment, get some naval jelly just in case. Forget the BB finish idea! I HATE BB finishes!

Nice job!

W.A.

------------------
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto

A few useful details on UK laws and some nice reviews!
http://members.aol.com/knivesuk/
Certified steel snob!
 
I think you guys are right about the rust. I can see some small spots of discoloration that are probably tiny pits were the steel wool didn't get to. I want to leave the coating alone. The rust only attacked the areas were the coating was worn from use. Will naval jelly attack the coating? Is that the best stuff to use? Thanks

 
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