Framelock/liner lock design critique and construction advice

J

Justin Presson

Joined
Dec 4, 2013
Messages
891
Hi guys
I could use some suggestions and critique of a design for a frame lock or possibly linerlock...not sure if one is easier to build then the other so that is why I'm unsure of what direction I'm going yet.
I have done some reading of the tactical folding knife and some other tutorials and just put pencil to paper yesterday and came up with this.
It's still a little rough and not exact but I think it's close. Sure wish I had a home computer so I could try to put it into cad but oh well.

Let me know what you all think if anything jumps out. Still not certain of what all hardware I will be using but plan to use titanium for scales and AEB-L for the blade.

Thanks
Justin

 
I know the road you are traveling all too well. It's challenging and rewarding. I like where you are going and I don't think you are too far off. I wouldn't make the finger choil so deep as that takes a lot of meat from the front of the lock bar. The lock contact area and stop pin are the hardest things to get right but, like I say, I don't think you're too far off

Make a couple of copies of your drawing. On one copy cut out the whole blade and on the other copy cut out the handle. Use a pin in the pivot to hold them together. This will give you an idea of what needs work. Once you adjust things and are happy do the same thing with cardboard from a frozen food container. Continue to tweak it until you think it all works perfectly. Get sheet of 1/8" acrylic and cut out your pieces again and drill out a pivot hole in both pieces (aluminum or wood will work too but I like acrylic). Don't waste good steel until you're happy.

Mark
 
Thanks Varga for the reply.i see what your saying but can I go high with the finger choil on the oposite side of the lock so my thumb stud nest in it and leave it low on the lock side. If that makes sense
 
If its a liner lock I hope your spring to bladed contact would be more square on. It doesn't make sense to have a wide spring until your get near the front and then go narrow. You want to get as much lock up as possible. I see the back of the blade is sticking out when closed. Why not extend your bolsters to cover this? I would make that notch either big enough for a finger or smaller to just accommodate the thumb stud. Yes, I too am big on making a working pattern. I find Formica works well. It certainly can be a material saver, but also will giver you an idea how it fits in your hand.
Hey, I do think you have a nicely styled folder there. I believe, from seeing some of your past work that this will work out well for you.
Frank
 
Good points Frank.
Here is the frame lock side I had drawn in the deep choil wich was the off side over the top of the other drawing so maybe this is clearer.
Do I have enough room for washers? what size do people typically use?
Justin
 
I think I decided I would like to make it a frame lock and possibly have use some g10 on the non lock side.
A few more questions, I'm thinking 3/16 size pivot but what size stop pin and stand offs 1/8" be fine?
 
Well , you have the answers as I see them, but good for you to ask. Yes, You look good for a 3/16 pivot pin and certainly the washers will be fine as long as you don't cut too deep for the spring. Wait until you get the washers to place through the liner and blade and it will be easy to see how deep you can go. This is one of several things I suggest you don't count on your pattern giving you the exact answer for. And yes to the 1/8" stop pin.
Frank
 
I think I will use these for the pivots. http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-kn...le-3-16-dia-x-50-l-6-32-black-ox-w-screw.html
For the stop pins, let's say I jus use 1/8 hardened SS for the stop pin do you drill a pilot hole smaller to locate it and then drill partially through the inside of the scales and sandwich the stop pin in between the scales or is it better to get like a threaded 1/8 pivot and use it for the stop pin?
Justin
 
I most often now use a full back bar, but when I've used a stop pin,I've always gone with the pin not having been threaded.
Of course try to position the pin in the correct place but here is another one of those things you can't figure your pattern will do for you close enough. I just go with an assemble and try with a slightly oversize back end length on the blade. Then it's use a very fine belt and keep trying until you get the blade attitude you want.
That looks like a good pivot. I haven't used any of those yet but it could happen. I so far have used the barrel type. The main thing with pivots is that the are not under or over size. Only go with reamed pivot holes.
Frank
 
What do you think of moving that stop pin forward (toward the blade.)
Is there a reason that it needs to be so far back? That's what's making that bit of the blade stick out the front of the bolster in the closed position.
 
elementfe said:
What do you think of moving that stop pin forward (toward the blade.)
Is there a reason that it needs to be so far back? That's what's making that bit of the blade stick out the front of the bolster in the closed position.
Click to expand...
I'm up for all suggestions and that makes sense I would rather do that then extend the front of the scales. Is there any rules to relation of stop pin, pivot and lock up?
 
It looks like the blade is a sharp or at least bevelled harpoon tip

It's got to be fully enclosed when it's closed if you do that.
 
This is something that is pattern friendly to try. If the stop pin is moved to far forward the back bottom corner of the blade won't clear it. I use Formica for my hard patterns and even though I use a back bar for the stop, I still sometimes make up a couple of patterns to make sure I'm not going to be burning up a lot of material in error. A lot of cabinet shops fill garbage bins with this stuff or a similar material and with give you a bunch just for the asking. When I made my last move I just went to a building supply and bought a whole sheet of white.
Frank
 
My work computer has Autocad I have never used it so I tried putting my design into it. Man that sure makes it easier!!
Let me know what you think and if I need to change anything. Did I leave enough on the back of the tang behind the pivot?
Justin
 
Looking good! I just replied to your email, big thanks and respect!

I'd try to add more lockup area below the pivot... you want the lockup as far away from the pivot and as close to "6 o'clock" as possible. (with the pivot as the center of the clock)
 
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