Framelock/liner lock design critique and construction advice

Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Looking good! I just replied to your email, big thanks and respect!

I'd try to add more lockup area below the pivot... you want the lockup as far away from the pivot and as close to "6 o'clock" as possible. (with the pivot as the center of the clock)
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Thanks Daniel for the help!
I messed with it a bit more after work today and it about made me go crazy I kept tweaking it and moving this which made me have to adjust this and that...I had to walk away from it it about drove me crazy :)
 
Lo/Rez said:
That's a nice looking design. Please post a WIP if you can.
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Thanks Lo/Rez. I have thought about doing a WIP if I do I will let you know. If nothing else I will take alot of pics. Hopefully I can get the design ironed out soon and then get my materials ordered.
Justin
 
I'm in the middle of my first liner (see my progress post a few lines above yours), and I'll just share 1 piece of advice on the lock pin since you asked about it.

If possible, use a pin like this one:
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I had started with a straight pin... but found it was just a hair too small. Luckily I have a lathe at work, and ground down an old drill bit to suit.

That way, you can start a little bit big, and grind down as necessary if your pin hole isn't perfect to the pivot hole.
 


I think im done designing it. I tried to make adjustments per recommendations and studying the drawings in Bob Terzuola's book. Any final thoughts? I'm going to cut it out on a template and see if it works. I know I have a little bit sticking out from the front of the scales but I'm just going to roll with it, shouldn't effect anything but the looks when it's closed.

Also for framelocks what thickness Ti is everyone using for scales? I have some .098 AEB-L I planed on using for the blade but might get thicker but not sure yet. Total length of the knife is about 7 3/4" opened. I'm kind of thinking .125 for the ti.

Justin
 
Droptine5 said:


I think im done designing it. I tried to make adjustments per recommendations and studying the drawings in Bob Terzuola's book. Any final thoughts? I'm going to cut it out on a template and see if it works. I know I have a little bit sticking out from the front of the scales but I'm just going to roll with it, shouldn't effect anything but the looks when it's closed.

Also for framelocks what thickness Ti is everyone using for scales? I have some .098 AEB-L I planed on using for the blade but might get thicker but not sure yet. Total length of the knife is about 7 3/4" opened. I'm kind of thinking .125 for the ti.

Justin
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That book is great!

I used 0.065 Ti, and I wish I had used something in the 0.025-0.040 if I were to do it again.

I hope you have a way to cut it, I learned the hard way how tough it really is - I ended up roughing it with a carbide hack saw blade, and dremel cutting wheels... and a lot more grinding time than I expected. But if you're going for framelock instead of liner lock (like I did), you may need to be that thick. At 0.060" thick, I also found that the spring was a little stronger than I'd like - which can be corrected a bit by changing the width and length of the spring cut.
 
Yeah I'm a bit worried about the cutting and general machining of the Ti but I want a framelock so that thin of ti is out. I'm sure it has a big learning curve.
 
Looking great! :cool:

.125" will be nice... maybe on the thinner side compared to some framelocks but my latest one is thinner than that...
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Looking great! :cool:

.125" will be nice... maybe on the thinner side compared to some framelocks but my latest one is thinner than that...
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Thanks for the feedback Daniel. Yeah I though .125 would be on the thinner I just don't know how much of a bear ti is to work yet so I don't want to stretch myself. I have a 2x72 and a portaband saw with variable speed....how does it cut with a bandsaw?
 
I wouldn't recommend going thicker than .125 for a blade that's only .098. Ti is not too bad to cut at least compared to s110v. Keep your feed rate up and if it gives you a hard time just cut it to length and grind the rest. It does grind fairly easy at slow speed.
 
Droptine5 said:
Thanks for the feedback Daniel. Yeah I though .125 would be on the thinner I just don't know how much of a bear ti is to work yet so I don't want to stretch myself. I have a 2x72 and a portaband saw with variable speed....how does it cut with a bandsaw?
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I use a high tension hacksaw (goes pretty quickly actually), chop saw or waterjet to cut my Ti but I hear a bandsaw is great with the right blade.

Grind Ti very slow and don't let it spark. Use sharp tooling, decent feed pressure and generally low speed when drilling or milling. Use new belts to grind.

I used .190" stock for my first Framelocks and it was really tough to work with at first... even after hundreds of Ti knives! .125" will be great and plenty solid for a Framelock... plus I feel that will go better with your blade thickness. I'm working with .140" Ti on one model and .100" on another, both have 4.5" range handles.
 
Varga Knives said:
I wouldn't recommend going thicker than .125 for a blade that's only .098. Ti is not too bad to cut at least compared to s110v. Keep your feed rate up and if it gives you a hard time just cut it to length and grind the rest. It does grind fairly easy at slow speed.
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That's what I'm thinking to Varga I don't want a over built handle on a thin blade. But I have to order the Ti so i can pick up some thicker steel at the same time if needed. They have some .138 or .130 AEB-L from alpha that's where I was thinking of getting the ti from unless some has a better source for ti.
 
Droptine5 said:
What thickness blade steel are you using on those 2 models Daniel?
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.140" Ti with .155" blade

.100" Ti with .125" blade


Here's the one with .140" Ti, my RF2 model. The blue twill is .125" stock (not measured) and the clip is .160".



 
I think I have my list of what I need is there anything I missed?

AEB-L .136
6-4 titanium .138
3/16 pivot .375 length from ticonnector
5/16 (.312) counterbore for pivot screw
3/16 reamer
#14 bit for 3/16 pivot hole
1/8 pivot × .375 length from ticonnector for my stop pin
#31 bit for stop pin hole (not sure if that is the right size)
#2 (.156) counterbore for the stop pin above.
.125 reamer for stop pin
1/16 detent ball
1/16 spade bit carbide for detent ball on Blade
#53 bit for 1/16 detent ball on lock bar
2-56 screws .375 length threads to bolt handle together
#49 bit to drill hole for 2-56 threaded hole
2-56 tap
.165Lx3/16 titanium pas through standoffs from ticonnector
Thumb stud
.188 I.D. x .375 O.D x .016 Phosphorus bronze washers

Justin
 
Your list looks good.

I may use a #53 carbide spade bit for my detent hole in the blade... I need to run down to the shop and check. I doubt it matters as it depends how you do the detent.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Your list looks good.

I may use a #53 carbide spade bit for my detent hole in the blade... I need to run down to the shop and check. I doubt it matters as it depends how you do the detent.
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Let me know Daniel. Is the spade bit preferred over a regular bit or vise versa...or does it even matter. Some reason I thought I read a spade bit.
 
I don't know if the spade bit matter but I've been using a #55 carbide twist bit for the detent pocket in the blade. It would be good if someone could correct me, too.
 
Yes, I've been using the spiral carbide bits for a few years now. They are much better than the spade bits.
Frank
 
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