"Frog Lube".... I'm sold on it now.

stvpourciau said:
I'd be interested too, for an old bolt action
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I'm not the only one satisfied with the stuff. Take a look at the YouTube videos people have been putting up. That's what convinced me to give it a try. Now that I have given it a try, I'm happy I did! I won't leave my weapons out in the rain to test the stuff... The humidity inside is bad enough here. I'll let you know in six months if I've changed my mind. :)


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
That was answered in a previous post. I have to assume that you didn't bother to read them if you can ask this question.



No magic involved. Simple metallurgy and physics. Did you bother to look at any of the videos or even read any of the testing that was done?



Yep. I certainly won't discuss it with you any longer.


Stitchawl
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Nope. That was "answered" with a video using a heat gun. That's a far cry from a hair dryer.

Metallurgy and physics. Ok. A hair dryer does not open "pores in metal". Period. That was my point. Blow dry your knife all you want to before you wipe it with your frog oil and it won't make any metallurgical or physical difference.

Great! Enjoy the lube. : thumbup:
 
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HotSteel ~~ use your Wifes Hair Dryer as it does the job better than anything else on Guns and Knives both.!**
 
AntDog said:
Nope. That was "answered" with a video using a heat gun. That's a far cry from a hair dryer.

Metallurgy and physics. Ok. A hair dryer does not open "pores in metal". Period. That was my point. Blow dry your knife all you want to before you wipe it with your frog oil and it won't make any metallurgical or physical difference.

Great! Enjoy the lube. : thumbup:
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I guess you really didn't bother to read the manufacturer's instructions, did you.
As for physics, ANY temperature greater than the ambient temperature will cause metal to expand. High School physics, not rocket science.

Raise the metal's temperature with a hair dryer, it expands enough to allow the lubricant to flow into the crevices in metal. Raise it still higher and the metal expands even more, however, that, according to the manufacturer and those of us using the product, isn't required. A hair dryer is sufficient.

As they say, 'You can lead a horse to water...' I guess you'll have to find your own way.


Stitchawl
 
Heating a blade with a hair dryer for a few minutes definitely opens up the microscopic pores. Believe whag you want. The metal absorbs the lube and holds it on the surface way better. It's not like a sponge, its more surface pores.
 
While heating metal will cause it to expand, once it cools to ambient temp it shrinks back, squeezing out the excessin whatever pores have opened to whatever degree. So I'm not sure the minimal expansion promoted by the hair dryer should have much benefit in theory. But if it has been found advantageous in practice that trumps theory.
 
Rust-pitted metal has something resembling pores...

I'm sure the heating is just to decrease the viscosity, allowing it to wet the surface. It may also help to desorb or displace water on the surface, allowing the lube to make intimate contact with the metal.
 
Stitchawl, are you using this for rust prevention on the blade or is it also a pivot lube? It looks more like a rust prevention product but I just wanted to confirm. I'm sold on the food grade so I am ordering today.
 
I remember this "heating" thing back when I was treating my knives with Militec 1. It was the same thing I believe, but i only used to use it on my butterfly knives for the smooth action, and it was a few years ago.

But, iirc the heating was beneficial to the traits of the oil, not the metal opening its pores. Something about heating the metal for the oil to sit on, made the oil work better, to some degree. I remember using militec1 and finding it did actually work better when heating the knives up with a hair dryer, but I must admit it was a very old hair dryer that got hotter than it should, and would burn you if you used it on your head. So, I don't exactly know what that means. But, it did make a noticeable difference, to me.

Again, this was hotter than a regular hair dryer, but nothing like a heat gun.

Perhaps something similar with the heating of the Frog lube stuff? I don't know. But, after reading that thread with the guy testing all the different products, I am now also sold on Frog lube. Maybe the guy was connected to the company in some way, he said he wasn't. Either way, I always appreciate new findings, and now I'm going to try out some of this frog lube for myself to see.

Anyways, thanks for the thread. Can't wait to try some. I've been hearing more and more about this frog soup but kinda figured it was just another lube on the market, but from what I've seen now, the stuff looks pretty darn good. just my $.02 thanks for sharing.

dave
 
Hey OP, i didn't mean to be so argumentative. I apologize. I really have no beef with any lubricant anyone chooses to use on anything. The hair dryer thing just struck me as funny. No offense meant.

Hell, I think I'll buy some just to try it out.
 
fishface5 said:
While heating metal will cause it to expand, once it cools to ambient temp it shrinks back, squeezing out the excessin whatever pores have opened to whatever degree. So I'm not sure the minimal expansion promoted by the hair dryer should have much benefit in theory. But if it has been found advantageous in practice that trumps theory.
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The way I figure it, the metal expands opening the 'pores' and allowing the lube to enter. This is because the surface tension on the lube 'may' be too strong to allow it to enter a smaller aperture and so needs a temporary larger one to get in. When the metal contracts again, it will squeeze out excess lube but keep enough inside the crevices to get the job done properly. From other testing we've seen that with lube 'less is more' so this could well be the reason. Makes sense to me...

Acadian said:
For you guys using frog lube - do you use the paste or the lube?
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I'm using the lube in a tube. I was surprised at how watery it was, and didn't feel thick and greasy like any oil I've used before.

Tiverton said:
Stitchawl, are you using this for rust prevention on the blade or is it also a pivot lube? It looks more like a rust prevention product but I just wanted to confirm. I'm sold on the food grade so I am ordering today.
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My plan is to use it for both. In the past, I've been using a urea-based grease as a pivot lube and Marine Tuf-cloth for rust prevention. After reading and watching dozens of videos and test reports about this stuff, I figured I could kill two birds with one stone. As I've only been using it for less than a week now, all I can really accurately comment on is the lubrication side, but if that side is any indicator, I've got myself the product I've wanted. My EDC has never been as smooth or fast as it is right now. And as a test of Frog Lube's rust prevention, I washed down one of my fencing blades with naphtha and then alcohol to strip off the Marine Tuf-glide, and wiped it down with Frog Lube after first warming the metal. So far there is absolutely no rusting showing up. Bare blades will begin to rust in a week in my location, although it would only be a surface coating. But so far, so good!


Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
The results showed that applying a lubricant, allowing it to get 'into' the metal, then wiping off ALL the excess provided MUCH better lubricity than if a wet layer of lubricant was allowed to remain. Frankly, that surprised me. I always thought 'more was better' when it came to lubrication. I guess not!
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This is the way guns/knifes/reels etc... should be treated with ANY lubricant. Put it on, let it soak a few minutes, wipe and/or blow completely dry (by looks). I'll agree warmer is better, but imo only to thin the lube.

I tested quite a few lubes and application methods back in the 90's pistol shooting @ ~4k rounds a month.
 
It does sound funny AntDog, but I put my SRKW blades out in the sun for half an hour after sharpening or touch ups.
Let's the metal get just warm enough to help do whatever the Froglube does.

Granted I'm no scientist, but as a pivot lube on my ZT 0562/BM 940 it works great.


As rust prevention on fixed blades, I wear my edc fixed IWB appendix.

Working as a bartender I get all kinds of fluids, salts, sugars and other fun things splashed on my constantly.
Not once have I come home after even a 12 hour shift and had rust/corrosion of any kind, there may be water drops in the kydex, but no rust.

I enjoy the ease of cleaning firearms with it after the initial application.
And the food safe aspect makes it perfect for my knives, which are used as eating utensils every day.

Try it out, if you don't like it I will take the unused portion for a nominal disposal fee😋
 
Always wanted to give the Frog Lube stuff a try. I'm a sucker for this kind of thing. If Stitchawl likes its got to be a good product! I'll test it on my old Prieur blades.
 
pjwoolw said:
Always wanted to give the Frog Lube stuff a try. I'm a sucker for this kind of thing. If Stitchawl likes its got to be a good product! I'll test it on my old Prieur blades.
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If you haven't played in a long time, you'd be amazed at how much longer the new blades last compared with our old Prieur blades. I used to bust a Prieur every 2-3 months back in the day. Now using either STM or Leon Paul blades, I haven't broken one in almost two years, playing 2-3 times a week!


Stitchawl
 
wolf-man-12 said:
HotSteel ~~ use your Wifes Hair Dryer as it does the job better than anything else on Guns and Knives both.!**
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Thanks, wolf-man. Yes, I should have thought of that. Even more, I should have thought of the heat gun I bought for heat shrink tubing. :p
 
stitchawl said:
If you haven't played in a long time, you'd be amazed at how much longer the new blades last compared with our old Prieur blades. I used to bust a Prieur every 2-3 months back in the day. Now using either STM or Leon Paul blades, I haven't broken one in almost two years, playing 2-3 times a week!


Stitchawl
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If you got a good one those ol French blades could really sing. I was never competitive or formal. More of a study in stunt / theatre fencing. I was more of the musketeer / gladiator type fighter. Too old for that stuff these days. I surprised allot of the kids I'd run into over the years though. Stopped in my early forties. I still yearn for the action though.
 
pjwoolw said:
If you got a good one those ol French blades could really sing. I was never competitive or formal. More of a study in stunt / theatre fencing. I was more of the musketeer / gladiator type fighter. Too old for that stuff these days. I surprised allot of the kids I'd run into over the years though. Stopped in my early forties. I still yearn for the action though.
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You're never too old... I just competed in one of the largest International tournaments in Asia, sponsored by the Royal Thai Navy. 420 fencers from 15 different countries, including two Olympic gold medal winners from the 2012 Olympics. I'm 69 yrs old. I was the oldest competitor, 50 years older than many of the fencers, but managed to bring home two Bronze medals. Our club here in northern Thailand is the smallest club participating, but three of us managed to cop four medals at the tournament; one Silver and three Bronze. I'll send you the link to the event.

You are NEVER too old. :)


Stitchawl
 
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