From the Old Fart files

[Easyrider]

No problem Thom.

I just call it like I see it. One of these days I'll get a belt sander and try that out but right now the Spyderco stones do a good job.

 

[Mtn Hawk]

To each his own but, for me, putting time and energy into keeping a knife looking new makes as much sense as trying to keep a shovel looking new. I consider the beauty of a knife to be in how well it does the job, not how pretty it looks.

thombrogan--

Thanks! I bought an edge-guide from Razor Edge but never used it. I seem to have evolved into using the Sharpmaker for my kitchen knives and freehand sharpening everything else, using the method you describe.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

... i use it for everything that comes along.it looks like a 2.00 china knife after u got done with it but it holds a edge and feels right so i will continue to use it.

Sounds good to me, eventually it wears out and you buy another one. You're happy the maker gets more work and his knives get used.

i sharpen my knives flat and thin the blade as much as possible depending on the job.

Same here, optimal cutting ability which has enough durablity to prevent frequent significant damage.

To each his own but, for me, putting time and energy into keeping a knife looking new makes as much sense as trying to keep a shovel looking new.

Indeed, many of the more expensive knives though are sold on aesthetics as much as performance. They really are not designed as simple working tools which leads further to elements of design which degrade performance but elevate appearance.

A person is allowed a more than basic wristwatch and still not be called vain.

Appreciation of art could hardly be argued a negative and in current society knives have moved beyond tools as collector items and even status symbols. The only critism I would make is the lack of clarity at times about this extent of aesthetic vs performance in design. As long as you are upfront about the intentions you can make as much of an aesthetic piece as you want, just don't then sell a piece of art as a working tool to someone who needs one.

Yes, your Sebenza is awesome [in performance], but many of us don't want that kind of awesomeness everyday considering the price [in beauty] that we pay.

That is why there are so many knives of so many levels from pure working tools to high end art pieces and all manner inbetween. In general though it needs to be considered that user "damage" of the type being discussed here is really light cosmetic. My Sebenza for example could be reground by Krein (to reduce the width of the edge bevel), the blade stone washed and the handles blasted and it could look as good as new. Most makers will recondition heavily used blades for very low cost, some have even noted on the forum they will do it for free.

-Cliff

 

[Abe]

Cliff,
Many thanks for your generous offer to send me a copy of the Fikes video. I don't want to put you to any trouble, though - international postage an' all that. I can wait 'till I'm next on your side of the pond.
Best wishes,
Abe

 

[ulua]

what does it mean to soup up an edge-pro? do you care to elaborate
on that idea? i have a ep pro and i'd love to have a longer lasting 100-
-180 grit stones...is that what your customizing?

 

[thombrogan]

To soup-up an EdgePro Apex, you need extra stone blanks and tape blanks.

My additions are an EZE-Lap 41XC 150 grit diamond hone on a stone blank for large-scale/low heat reprofiling (while still keeping the knife looking pretty), 42C 250 grit diamond on a stone blank, 42F 600 grit diamond on a stone blank, 1200 grit diamond on a stone blank (41SF seems to only be available from EdgePro), and two tape blanks set up for 5 micron silicon carbide tape and 0.3 micron aluminum oxide tape. The beauty is that the 250/600/1200 setup will all be the same thickness until Judgement Day and the tape blanks will also be at their slightly different same thickness. The diamonds cut a hair slower, but don't need as much maintenance and don't dish and don't change height over time.

The benefit in all of that is making the bevels look prettier faster with less oopses happening. Functionally, it's just silliness.

 

[ulua]

thanks for sharing that valueable tip...i'll try the diamonds.

does anyone know of a 60-120 grit xxcoarse?

 

[Greg]

G'day,
I was looking through a bottom drawer in the kitchen yesterday and came across an old carving knife that was sharpened flat to the stone. It was ugly, with scratches all over it. I put it back.
I have a few friends who are 'high-end' woodworkers and their chisels are beautiful--and get used daily.
I prefer to sharpen my knives with a bevel (I use a DMT aligner) and then polish that bevel with a paper wheel loaded with polishing compound. The better the polish, the better the cutting, and the longer the edge lasts. A loaded leather strop will also work. And I end up with a convex edge--no matter what the blade profile.
If you really want to see what works do a search for: Experiments on Knife Sharpening-
John D. Verhoeven.
The scanning electron microscope shows all! And I don't have to scratch up a blade to get a good edge.
Greg

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I have a few friends who are 'high-end' woodworkers and their chisels are beautiful--and get used daily.

Chisels are sharpened flat to the stone, expecially the back which is lapped flat. The front side is also flat honed on a stone and then usually micro-beveled for efficiency.

The better the polish, the better the cutting, and the longer the edge lasts.

Try slicing. No you don't need to scratch up a blade to get a "good" edge, however knives get scratched in use anyway and proper reliefs are required for optimal edges.

-Cliff