Frustration is...being almost done with a hidden tang knife, when... see pics...

I feel your pain, brutha... and have been in similar situations more times than I am willing to admit. But seriously, taking the "fudge-free" route to address an issue like this is only way you'll grow as a maker. I honestly feel so much better about my abilities when there is no hesitation in choosing the path I should take, over the path I could take.
 
Its got a wide tapering tang - here is a photo:
5185.jpg
I had to drill a 1/8 hole the length of the tang, then a 1/4, etc, all the way up to a 9/16th's hole towards the blade side of the handle.

The tang goes at least 95% of the length of that long handle.


That right there would be the problem. As Stacy pretty much mentioned, the holes shouldn't be that big. The holes you drill into the handle should be no larger in their diameter than the tang's thickness is, and the tang cavity should be very close to the size of the tang in every dimension, as opposed to simply a large round hole.

So for example, say the thickness of your tang was 3/16", the largest diameter drill bit you should use to beginning creating the cavity in the handle material should be 3/16" in diameter, if not even a little bit smaller. This way you then have room to use hand tools to slowly open up the size of the hole until its just large enough to for the tang to slide into it, with hardly, if any room for it wiggle either side to side or up and down.

Here is a WIP that shows a fantastic example of a great way to create a properly sized hole in the handle material for your tang to fit nicely into. The handle work begins in post #89 on this page: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1082411-Introduction-and-a-WIP/page5

Hope that helps a bit. :thumbup: :)

~Paul

My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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I'm not sure if I explained right: I drilled a long skinny drill bit all the way to almost the end of the block - like a guide hole. That fits the very tip of the tang. Then, since the tang tapers, a larger hole, not as deep, then larger and larger bits (but shallower and shallower holes) up to the blade end of the block. But, I'll check out the link.
 
I'm not sure if I explained right: I drilled a long skinny drill bit all the way to almost the end of the block - like a guide hole. That fits the very tip of the tang. Then, since the tang tapers, a larger hole, not as deep, then larger and larger bits (but shallower and shallower holes) up to the blade end of the block. But, I'll check out the link.

Drilling the holes in that manner will make the hole too wide at the top. Although it fits the height of your tang, it does not fit the thickness of the tang.

Here's a WIP I did a while back that shows how to fit a handle on a hidden tang.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...IP-Knife-now-complete?p=14334170#post14334170
 
Also, isn't epoxy stronger than wood?

Not sure why that would matter, as the epoxy is what seals and bonds the handle to the tang, it's not like your making your handle out of it ;) .

Also, that would be just one more good reason why you would want to remove the least amount of material to fit the tang, in order for the wood to keep its strength and integrity.

There is a good reason why the method shown in the WIP link I shared with you (or at least something similar) is used by basically every other good bladesmith and knifemaker when they are making hidden tang knives. The WIP link that Shane shared with you also shows the same method for fitting the tang. :thumbup:

We're only trying to help you avoid such problems as presented in your original post in your future projects, as well as trying to share information and techniques that we've all learned here and other places over the years that can help you improve your final product. :)



~Paul

My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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