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Full Liner on a PARA 2 orange

It's fake I'm almost positive the fakes I've seen are almost identical except for the one cutout in the liner and the cutout for the compression lock is a even half circle instead of a slightly obtuse half circle that's stretched out towards the back end witch was supposed to make the real one more ergonomic to disengage.

My guess is this is the orange 25$ para 2 that you can get via that sinned china express site.
 
It is sad, but the comp lock fakes have been out there for a while now. There are even fake digi-cam and dlc versions. Buy from legitimate dealers.
 
The liners are all wrong. Won't say any more, just gives the counterfeiters something to work on.
 
How is the steel on the knife??? Is it cheap Chinese junk, or good stuff?

Edit: Meaning the blade. Spydie runs their S30 pretty hard, and Chinese are good about writing s90v or something retarded insane, on a 440a blade. That should be a tell tale sign.
 
Good thing is that you cannot swap the fake liners into the real scales....they don't fit. I also notice the holes on the real scales are drill concaved so the flat head screw will sit flushed. The fake scales are drill without a concave.
 
Wow, if that thing is fake as you have all said. That is a scary replica. Not many first time knife buyers would even notice. I feel horrible that spyderco even has to deal with this crap.
 
It looks as if the standard 3-hole spydie pattern clip holes aren't exactly the same either. The orange one looks like the holes are slightly further compared to the real deal.
 
It looks so close. If they didn't get lazy towards the end it would be a perfect fake. One more mill on the non locking side and a quick polish on the lock side and it would be almost exact. It also looks like the real one has more of a belly on the handle.
 
I just check the Torx size on the fake. The Pivot is T9, scales screws are T8. The real para Pivot torx is T10.
 
The locking tab is quite a bit different. There is also some deformation on the fake on the underside of the tab. Not sure the exact role that area plays, but that knife could become unreliable. Also, the fake does not have that little imperfection on the liner that has been discussed before as a product of an assembly process.
 
Who at the gun show did you buy this from? Might be a good idea to snitch on the seller to whoever runs the show.
 
Looks like the bottom spacer is different.

Aside from the liners, the stop tab, and what others have mentioned, the liner on the fake has some radiusing where the other doesn't - and if you look at the places on the fake where the bottom spacer is seated, there is extra metal there - that's actually an upscaled feature on CRKs. The worst thing to me is that they have the plunge lines looking closer - usually fakes do not terminate the edge grind like the real versions, and these are much closer. It isn't close enough to the flat of the ricasso though, so in fixxing the plunge they have encountered another problem.

Even though there are many clear differences, there are certain things that don't add up about labeling it as a clear fake. I would have to hear from Sal before making a call - did you check to see if the indentions from the manufacturing process are present on the fake's liners? It could be a prototype or the orange Para could have been a run where certain things were changed.

I think the 2 most convincing pieces of evidence it's a fake though are the fact you bought it from a gun show and the logos looking orangish. The mismatched scales/blade is seen as often on Franken spydies as they are on fakes. One or two of the clear differences and I would call it a near perfect fake. All taken together, it makes the possibility of aftermarket modification or something unique from Spyderco an option. Coming from a gun show and the makers marks not being right - almost all fakes share that part of the story.
 
If you don't mind me asking - what kind of price did you pay for the orange PM2?

Was the price so low it was too good to be true?
 
What are the key items to look for on a fake Para 2? Threads like these are helpful, and so are some of the links. But all this info is all over the place.
 
What are the key items to look for on a fake Para 2? Threads like these are helpful, and so are some of the links. But all this info is all over the place.

They modify the fakes too often and there are so many out there, it's all over the place. You might depend on one feature, and end up getting screwed because a fake had it right - that's why it's important to study all the threads and look at everything - it's easier to know what a real one will have than all the things a fake one could possibly have. Or just buy from reputable dealers that get their stock directly from Spyderco....
 
What are the key items to look for on a fake Para 2? Threads like these are helpful, and so are some of the links. But all this info is all over the place.

I'd say the best indicator is where you are buying it from and the price. If it is running you $125~ from BladeHQ it should be legit. Now, if some guy on craigslist is asking $30, I'd be a bit suspicious. If you stick to reputable shops, you should have nothing to fear, as even if you get a fake somehow from them, they care enough about their reputation to fix it for you.
 
I'd say the best indicator is where you are buying it from and the price. If it is running you $125~ from BladeHQ it should be legit. Now, if some guy on craigslist is asking $30, I'd be a bit suspicious. If you stick to reputable shops, you should have nothing to fear, as even if you get a fake somehow from them, they care enough about their reputation to fix it for you.

How safe is Amazon?
 
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