Full Tang, Carbon Steel?

James_Terrio

James_Terrio

Joined
Oct 6, 2008
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I like full tangs and I like high-carbon steels. But I've shied away from combining
the two. I have a Browning Crowell/Barker made that way and it's a bit of a pain to keep the tang clean. I have nightmares about selling one and having it come back in a month to be cleaned up.

I'm wondering if it would be best to stick with materials like micarta for such a knife... at least that way when (not if) the tang gets rust on it, it could be cleaned off without messing up the finish on a wood handle. FWIW I'm moving away from oiled wood handles anyway and stocking up on stabilized stuff.

Am I just over-thinking this?
 
I make full-tang carbon steel knives. I tell people what they are and let them decide if they are going to take care of them. The tang will develop a patina very quickly with use. Poor knife care in general is leading me away from carbon steels, but that is another story.
 
Yes, you are overthinking it. When I sell a knife I do explain how to take care of the knife. In my opinion, folks who like stainless over carbon are giving up the best edge for being to lazy to take care of the knife. A carbon knife will build up a patina after use that adds to character. Just my 2 cents.
 
The only problem with using a frame constructed knife and steels with two different stain characteristics is that you will develop a very visible transition between the knife spine and the frame. I think the patina will look better.
 
i have been using carbon steel for about 18 years and havent had any problems with any type of blade handle rusting. i'm sure i would have heard about any by now.
 
DanGraves said:
Yes, you are overthinking it. When I sell a knife I do explain how to take care of the knife. In my opinion, folks who like stainless over carbon are giving up the best edge for being to lazy to take care of the knife. A carbon knife will build up a patina after use that adds to character. Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Well said
 
Thanks for the good advice, gentlemen. I do appreciate it.

Anyone know a wholesale source for small bottles of light oil or polishing cloths? I've been toying with the idea of including them with carbon knives as a hint. ;)

I suspect y'all think I'm being a little silly about this; but I have my first batch of 1084 knives almost ready for HT and this has been bugging me...
 
On my dad's knife, he put car wax on the whole handle (and blade for that matter) and he just touches it up every once in a while, depending on how much he uses it, and it's free from rust, even after being wet, dirty, handled, etc. But, I'm not sure if this REALLY helps you as he's only had it a month.
 
If your looking for a rust removing oil, look no further than Gunzilla... I personally swear by it and so do most of my gun buddies now...

"Gunzilla automatically removes rust while it is cleaning. Once the weapon is cleaned and wiped dry Gunzilla is naturally leaving a dry coating for lubrication and protection. Since there is no rust left between the protective coating and the metal, rust and corrosion have a much more difficult time forming and spreading on the weapon. Most gun cleaners don't remove rust so when oil is applied to the gun it is only covering the rust up and slowing it down, but the rust is still attached to the metal."


Jason
 
Thanks for the tip, Jason, that's interesting stuff. The only thing that concerns me is its highly-touted lubricating properties... that's the last thing I want on a knife handle.

I would definitely want a rust-preventer that's food-safe. I'm thinking mineral oil. It occurs to me that our pal Tracy sells little tiny squeeze bottles for cheap, and a bottle of mineral oil is only a couple bucks. I will try some on my Barker and see if it's too "slickery".

EDIT: preliminary results are promising. I'm always open to new ideas, of course. :)
 
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go mike said:
...he just touches it up every once in a while, depending on how much he uses it...
Click to expand...

To me, that's the single most important thing to remember, whether we're talking about the edge or the finish. But not every customer is as conscientious as your Dad; I'm hoping to make it easier for the guys who might use a knife at deer-camp one week a year and leave it in a drawer the other 51 weeks. And yes, despite what we all preach, most folks store their knives in the sheath.

Incidentally, I like blued knives and knives with a nice natural or forced patina very much; but again, some clients like 'em bright and shiny. I lost a sale on a knife because it was blued; the fella said he would have bought it at my price if it was polished up, which of course it was under the blue. I offered to polish the blue off at no charge, but never heard from him again. :( Just trying to have reasonable options available to make customers happy.
 
James_Terrio said:
I like full tangs and I like high-carbon steels. But I've shied away from combining
the two. I have a Browning Crowell/Barker made that way and it's a bit of a pain to keep the tang clean. I have nightmares about selling one and having it come back in a month to be cleaned up.

I'm wondering if it would be best to stick with materials like micarta for such a knife... at least that way when (not if) the tang gets rust on it, it could be cleaned off without messing up the finish on a wood handle. FWIW I'm moving away from oiled wood handles anyway and stocking up on stabilized stuff.

Am I just over-thinking this?
Click to expand...

I've almost stopped making full tang knives because of this (almost, but have one on the bench awaiting scales, so not quite). In my own opinion, carbon steel is best used for hidden tangs, be it mortised, framed, or whatever.

Camping last weekend, I carried a small o1 necker, and the tang is starting to rust after light use. I can keep finger prints off the blade, but how is one supposed to keep them off the handle (and still use the thing)?

It is a design defect, if you ask me. Ranks right up there with lathe turned perfectly round handles...
 
GHEzell said:
I've almost stopped making full tang knives because of this (almost, but have one on the bench awaiting scales, so not quite). In my own opinion, carbon steel is best used for hidden tangs, be it mortised, framed, or whatever.

Camping last weekend, I carried a small o1 necker, and the tang is starting to rust after light use. I can keep finger prints off the blade, but how is one supposed to keep them off the handle (and still use the thing)?

It is a design defect, if you ask me. Ranks right up there with lathe turned perfectly round handles...
Click to expand...

I realize after a bit of thinking, I may have come across a bit harsh by calling it a design defect, it is not nearly as bad as a lathe-turned handle...:foot:
However, I do believe it is best avoided during the design phase of the knife due to the increase in maintenance it causes, if the knife is actually to be used on a regular basis. It is entirely appropriate on a historical replica or historically inspired knife of a type that uses this type of construction, and it is a very strong method. I mean no disrespect to those who use this type of handle construction... I can think of no maker who hasn't. I do think alternative methods need to be considered for those of us who still have a love for carbon steel.
 
I tend to agree with you, that carbon steel is best utilized as a hidden or mortised tang. I just feel more comfortable with the tang all sealed up. But A) I already have some full tangs mostly ground and B) if a future customer wants one, I don't want to say 'no'. Does that make me a sell-out? :rolleyes:
 
Full tang carbon blades are not hard to care for. I have one I use in the kitchen and the only care it gets it to be washed in soapy water and dried off and put back in the knife block, after 3 years of this still no rust though it is getting a nice patina.You can't control how someone is going to care for the knife they bought so make what you like to and advise them on purchase of how to care for it,then it is in teir hands.
Stan
 
That's true Stan, but a temp/humidity-controlled, nice clean kitchen is a far cry from deer camp or a fishing outing. :)
 
Hy James your right but you have not seen my kitchen:o but in reality try this little experiment, take a carbon steel blade rubbed to about 600 grit eventhe back spine put a light coat of wax on it set it outside for 2 day then spray it with water then check it to see how long it takes to start rusting.I have one in my shop with no temp control and it will take about 2 weeks or so be fore any light rust will start on it. We all used to carry carbon steel pocket knives like the Old Timer and with very little care they did not rust. Now if some one throw a dirty knife in the bottm of a tackel box or back pak and leaves it there for 6 months that a different story but you can't control peoples behavior. Just sayin you really don't have much of a problem with them rusting under normal circumstances.:D
Stan
 
I do have small tub of Renaissance Wax that seems to work great, but it's too pricy to send one with every knife. :o I understand all your points, and completely agree. I'm just paranoid, I guess.
 
Send them a can of neutral paste shoe polish. It works much better than Rennaissance Wax, and it's a lot cheaper.
 
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