G10 Failure : Finally a pair of usable scales :)

Harbor Freight sell transfer punches. I sometimes double sticky back tape both pieces to each other. This is before shaping the new scales. Transfer the holes from one to the other and then mark the outline when screwed to the knife. Remove and shape the scale to the knife or original scales. I always put in the holes prior to shaping the scales. This works for me.
Ron
 
rpttrsn said:
Harbor Freight sell transfer punches. I sometimes double sticky back tape both pieces to each other. This is before shaping the new scales. Transfer the holes from one to the other and then mark the outline when screwed to the knife. Remove and shape the scale to the knife or original scales. I always put in the holes prior to shaping the scales. This works for me.
Ron
Click to expand...
+1 on that one
 
A drill press is best.
Double sided tape is awesome, it will allow you to drill all the holes on both scales at once.
First, the pivot hole.
Second, the hole furthest away from pivot.
Then all the ones in between.
(I drill the countersinks before drilling the though holes)
Have fun!
 
rpttrsn said:
Harbor Freight sell transfer punches. I sometimes double sticky back tape both pieces to each other. This is before shaping the new scales. Transfer the holes from one to the other and then mark the outline when screwed to the knife. Remove and shape the scale to the knife or original scales. I always put in the holes prior to shaping the scales. This works for me.
Ron
Click to expand...

Bighaze51 said:
+1 on that one
Click to expand...


Im looking them up in harbor freight right now thanks guys,
 
Keyman said:
A drill press is best.
Double sided tape is awesome, it will allow you to drill all the holes on both scales at once.
First, the pivot hole.
Second, the hole furthest away from pivot.
Then all the ones in between.
(I drill the countersinks before drilling the though holes)
Have fun!
Click to expand...


Hey thanks for replying Keyman, about those countersinks how deep should they be, about as thick as the screw head? Is what Im guessing?
 
BM screw heads/countersinks are .050"
The pivot countersink could be .055" or .060" I can't remember which (.055" I think).
Of coarse if you are using the original screws and the new scale material is thicker than the original scales; then the countersink will need to be equally deeper (math involved).
For example:
Original scale thickness .100"; Original countersink .050"
New scale thickness .110"; New countersink .060"

Be careful not to over countersink.
It's easier to take more off, than it is to put more back on. ;)
 
Keyman said:
BM screw heads/countersinks are .050"
The pivot countersink could be .055" or .060" I can't remember which (.055" I think).
Of coarse if you are using the original screws and the new scale material is thicker than the original scales; then the countersink will need to be equally deeper (math involved).
For example:
Original scale thickness .100"; Original countersink .050"
New scale thickness .110"; New countersink .060"

Be careful not to over countersink.
It's easier to take more off, than it is to put more back on. ;)
Click to expand...

Awesome!, I was not taking that difference into account. Cant wait for the new scales to get here an put all this info into practice
 
It might be late advice, but I know with woodwork I like to save some sawdust to mix with glue to fill voids. You might be able to mix the g10 powder with epoxy and fill the hole so it cant be seen. But Ive never tried it with synthetics before.
 
In case you are looking for the right tool, you only want a countersink for flat head screws. They come in 82 and 90 degrees. Most screws are 82*. Counterbores are for flat bottom holes and for round head or cap screws. I make my own by using a drill bit and making it with a flat bottom on a grinder. Much cheaper this way. You start with the proper size drill just to break the surface and then go with the flat bottom bit ( counterbore ) to the depth you want for the screw head. You should use a drill press and have everything held securely or the drill can pull into the material if not sharpened properly. This happens in non ferrous material. They do sell counterbores for different screw sizes. Best of luck.
Ron
 
rpttrsn is right about the terminology (countersink/counterbore).
In your case (for BM screws) a counterbore is needed.
You will find that "countersinking" has become a general use word used to represent the act of recessing of a screw head into your subject material.
When searching for these drills you will find that wood working retailers will refer to them as counterbores, as rpttrsn has already stated.
However, online knifemakers supply stores normally call these items "step drills" and they are available in many different sizes.
Here is a link to ones sold by knife kits:
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=530&cPath=49_193_206
Thanks Ron (rpttrsn), for making this all a little clearer.
 
shockjockey24 said:
It might be late advice, but I know with woodwork I like to save some sawdust to mix with glue to fill voids. You might be able to mix the g10 powder with epoxy and fill the hole so it cant be seen. But Ive never tried it with synthetics before.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a great Idea for solid colored G10, although I dont know if that would weaken the epoxy. On multi-colored G10 It might just look like a different color from the epoxy and g10... i will try it out though on the damaged scales. Im thinking of also getting some fiberglass resin, like whats used in Micarta. That way i can try out two materials
 
rpttrsn said:
In case you are looking for the right tool, you only want a countersink for flat head screws. They come in 82 and 90 degrees. Most screws are 82*. Counterbores are for flat bottom holes and for round head or cap screws. I make my own by using a drill bit and making it with a flat bottom on a grinder. Much cheaper this way. You start with the proper size drill just to break the surface and then go with the flat bottom bit ( counterbore ) to the depth you want for the screw head. You should use a drill press and have everything held securely or the drill can pull into the material if not sharpened properly. This happens in non ferrous material. They do sell counterbores for different screw sizes. Best of luck.
Ron
Click to expand...

Keyman said:
rpttrsn is right about the terminology (countersink/counterbore).
In your case (for BM screws) a counterbore is needed.
You will find that "countersinking" has become a general use word used to represent the act of recessing of a screw head into your subject material.
When searching for these drills you will find that wood working retailers will refer to them as counterbores, as rpttrsn has already stated.
However, online knifemakers supply stores normally call these items "step drills" and they are available in many different sizes.
Here is a link to ones sold by knife kits:
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=530&cPath=49_193_206

This site is awesome, I don't know exactly how much trial and error you guys just saved me from but, with the tips within the few posts we've shared,
I have already worked out a completely different approach to this project... although the budget grew a little :D so did my admiration for the customization work you guys do around here!

Thanks Again.
Click to expand...
 
So the new G 10 I had ordered arrived on Wednesday, (Black and Yellow). I had originally planned to work on the scales for the Adamas but for some reason the scales arrived about 1/16th of an inch too short in height (their advertised dimensions 3/16"x1.5"x6") The last time I ordered the scales were perfect, these were not bad but definitely not the same size. and also one of them was 1/8 of an inch short in width.

Lemons and Lemonade right! So this gave me the chance to work on the 300-1, more than enough G10 to go around for this knife. This time around I triple checked the measurements. I taped the liners to the raw scales and scored the pattern with a thick needle then traced the scratch in pencil so the line would be nice and dark and wouldnt fade with handling.

Following the advice you guys had provided I drilled the pivot hole first followed by the standoffs and last the clip and axis lock. The initial holes appeared to line up perfectly,
Next I did the counter sinking. I couldn't find the right size and it would have taken a few days for the harbor freight stuff to arrive so I used regular drill bits (followed with a dremel carving bit.) I had to widen the 3 of the countersunk holes because my alignment was not exactly perfect and the screws were catching on the "walls".
I had no bits on hand to countersink the pivot so I chucked a grinding stone in there, Its noticeably wider but I was planning to fill in the gap with red resin. and then sand it smooth (I though a red ring around the pivot would look pretty cool). Then I started grinding and carving going slower this time. (speed is not your friend in this type of project)

I added the Finishing touches milling, final shaping and buffing etc. Then proceeded to reassemble the knife. I slap the scales on and all the holes look good.
"Good so far" Im thinking. wrong... #%^$%##$^&#:mad: something was slightly off and not all of the screws would go all the way in. I gave all the holes another pass in an effort to widen them. Test fit again..ughhh...more widening and tweaking. This time around I was off by fractions of fractions..not so bad as last time yet alignment was still an issue. (lesson learned, Don't by a cheap drill stand, and when in doubt slow down)

Anyways this time around it was easier, I ended up with scales I could actually use, (still not perfect). Mistakes were made along the way, but the leaning curve is a little flatter now. I ended up scraping the black finish on the liners and stripping some of the screws. This mistake worked out rather nicely, I took the coating off all the screws, liners, pivot and clip, they are now Stainless Steel and look even better than the original black IMO

Here are the pics:
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I will pipe up and say that I would happily put your knife scales into my pocket on a knife.
Keep up the good work.
 
Keyman said:
Sweet!
You've gotta be happy with that.
Lookin' good.
Click to expand...

Thanks Keyman, your advice proved very useful, these definitely turned out better than the previous ones.

Squashfan said:
I will pipe up and say that I would happily put your knife scales into my pocket on a knife.
Keep up the good work.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Squashfan, Im looking foward to improving to the point where I cand send some people a decent pair of scales that fit flawlessly ;)
 
You are welcome for the kind words. I will admit, you have me wondering if I could make my own scales. What equipment do you have to make scales? I am assuming a drill press is one of the items. What other tools are you using?
 
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