Gadgets for sharpening with consistent correct angle

D

Darkaz

Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
65
I know this is strictly of general topic and no reason to post in WSS, but this is more or less my home page on bf :)

I mainly prefer flatbed sharpeners (Hand American) for sharpening but freely admit to be hand sharpening challenged. The problem I have is lack of ability in matching the angle of the blade to the existing secondary bevel and keeping it constant. I may well know I want to sharpen a knife at 20 degrees per side, but finding that 20 degrees is often mystical to me :grumpy:

There are various honing guides you can buy that clamp on the back of the blade, but they are usually not adjustable, will not give the same angle on a SAK as a battle mistress and will not cope well forward of the belly.

My usual method of sharpening involves having a go with a flatbed stone, ending up with a knife duller than it was before and then resorting to a sharpmaker to get a keen edge back :foot:

The sharpmaker is a doddle because the ceramics are set 20 degrees off the vertical so you just have to hold the knive straight. So I thought, instead of trying to get the correct angle with the blade, why not incline the flatbed at the desired angle and then just keep the blade flat?

I looked into anything that would do the job and found this:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Bevel-Box-564900.htm
Just ordered one with the idea that I can put it on the stone/flatbed (even in the field), prop it up at the correct angle and then sharpen/hone keeping the blade flat to the ground.

What do you think? And do other people have any tipe to get good results with flatbeds (other than uncanny skill)?
 
The best tool is to practise putting your thumb on the spine of your knife and touch your thumb to the stone (lightly) and pull the knife towards you while holding your wrist straight. This is a basic way of understanding a consistent angle.

Since, it is posted on this forum, in the wilderness, you most probably would not have a sharpening gadget with you. It is better to learn to do it without. Plus, you can save the money to buy another knife.
 
People fail at sharpening for 2 reasons.

1. They try to find exactly 20 degrees.
2. They give up after a few strokes

The thumb gves you a basic angle guide. You just got to do alot of passes. depending on the steel and dullness, it could be 50 or even more.

good luck
 
lansky sharpening system with stones. I can't tell you how much I like it. Only thing that's hard is very small blades.
 
Saunterer said:
Try this -> http://knives.mylamb.com/calc.htm

Learn what angles feel like on your various blades and train yourself what it feels like on your thumb. The middle of your thumb might be 20 degrees on your SAK, or the top of your thumb on your sharpened prybar.
Click to expand...

some people just aren't that skilled. I for one am not. I'll stick to my sharpie and lansky clamp and guides. I wish I could do that, but I just can't seem to.
 
JackBauer24 said:
I wish I could do that, but I just can't seem to.
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing. I started with a lansky 10 years or so ago and found it adequate. But I went to a yard sale and bought a fist full of old kitchen knives for about a $1 and practiced on a $8 Norton stone I found at Home Depot. Just like everything else in life, it takes practice and more practice.

But once you learn to match the bevel, or create your own, keeping the angles consistent and then raising a burr; you can pretty much sharpen anything on anything.

Then mousepad sharpening becomes easier, sharpmaker works better and the lansky works easier. Guess it boils down to the fundamentals.

Enjoy,

--Chris
 
Edge Pro Apex.

I use that for home, and just strop them in the field.

Before the Edge Pro, I used a Razor Edge. It's just a small little clamp that goes onto the blade, and is easy to carry.
 
Strobengh said:
Edge Pro Apex.

I use that for home, and just strop them in the field.

Before the Edge Pro, I used a Razor Edge. It's just a small little clamp that goes onto the blade, and is easy to carry.
Click to expand...

I REALLY want one, but I've thought about doing sharpening here at the store and in that case I'd want the much more expensive one with the sissor attachment. I just can't drop that cash right now.
 
Practice, practice, practice. And then more practice. It'll take a good while before one gets the feel of free-hand sharpening. Well, it took me a while, anyways. I still prefer my Sharpmaker, and I take my old version on camping trips. However I can use a basic stone to get an edge on just about anything. It may not turn out to be at the most ideal angle, but I can get a tool sharp. The more you work at it, the easier it will come.

Although not usually good for finishing a fine edge, I suppose you could also work with a belt sander, too. The belt sander would move the stone for you, and all you need to do is draw the blade across and maintain an angle. Of course, one needs to be very careful with the belt sander/knife union.
 
hikeeba said:
Although not usually good for finishing a fine edge, I suppose you could also work with a belt sander, too. The belt sander would move the stone for you, and all you need to do is draw the blade across and maintain an angle. Of course, one needs to be very careful with the belt sander/knife union.
Click to expand...

you can ruin one in a hurry too. I wouldn't reccomend that to anyone who wasn't very skilled. I even have a leather belt for mine. you can still ruin stuff. Although it would be nice when I eventually get good at it, talk about gettin' em done fast.
 
Sharpening stones are like ink pens for me. I'm always seeing a new one and have to have it to try out. I have several still in the wrapper that I picked up at the Blade Show in Atlanta. Currently using the DMT diamond stone. I like it.

Hold the sharpened blade edge vertical on a stone. Half of vertical is 45 degrees. You then half that again and that gives you an approximate 22.5 degrees. You can also draw the angles with a protractor and use that in conjunction with the above visual method to give you a feel for what 20 degrees is.

The ceramic rods work pretty well also as you hold the blade vertical and move it down the rod. Most people can eye ball vertical or 90 degrees. You can't sharpen an axe this way, but for most blades it works as long as the edge is not too dull.
 
these types of threads pop up so much and there was a lot of good recommendations passed along.....but.......if you have any intention of using your knives and other edged tools in woods.....you need to learn to sharpen freehand. Are you going to carry this stuff with you in a ruck? I know I wouldn't sacrifice the weight carrying around a big sharpening device. I carry a small Smith's diamond (course/fine) sharpener in the woods and I can maintain my knives and axe edges with it. I use a Lansky at home...and I about to buy an Edge Pro...but learn the basics as well. Learn the basics and you can put a working edge on a knife with a rock...hopefully that would never be necessary but it's nice to have the knowledge.
 
JackBauer24 said:
you can ruin one in a hurry too. I wouldn't reccomend that to anyone who wasn't very skilled.
Click to expand...

Well, everyone has to start freehanding somewhere. I can say that when I started there were some edges that initially got worse, but I never flat-out ruined anything. One has to take their time, go slow, and pay attention to what they are doind. And check your work frequently.
 
Anyone can learn to freehand! It is not difficult at all, it only takes practice.

I would say start with a scandi grind - the angle is built right in - and after you have worn that down to a nub, the angle will be as natural as breathing.

I don't own any of the contraptions or systems, and I would rather not! Although I would consider a belt sander for speed on kitchen knives, which the GF seems to mangle regularly - but then, that's what files are for.

Back when I was a kid, I was trying to sharpen a knife on my dad's big electric wet stone, using my thumb as a guide...and I wore the side of my thumb off. I didn't even feel it until afterwards, but there started to be a rust-coloured ring around the center of the wheel. "What is that about?" I wondered. Then, when I took my hand away, I realised I had no skin left on the side of my right thumb!
 
99% of all my sharpening is freehand, the other 1% is with crock sticks or a sharpmaker. Buy yourself a 10 dollar mora or old hickory and a hard arkansas stone and go to town, it takes practice but it sure isn't rocket science. Chris
 
I am with the "learn free hand" crowd. Its not the easiest method to learn, but you will be glad you did once you can do it well.
 
I used the Razor Edge guide system for a long time. It helped build muscle memory for my free hand sharpening. By having the guides keep a consistent angle I learned to hold steady when sharpening free hand. This wasn't my intention when I bought the Razor Edge System, but that's how it turned out.
 
Thanks for the tips, all helpfull.

It's my intention to work at the handsharpening (rather than gatco/edge pro etc) because if I can get it right on a big flatbed at home, then that will give me skills which should transfer across to field sharpening with a much smaller stone.

I still think angling the stone with the digital measurer will be a good idea to start with, as it will give me feedback on how different angles "feel" if I use my thumb at the same time. Then when I have enough practice I can go to thumb alone :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top