Gadgets for sharpening with consistent correct angle

I've got a few thoughts on this.

1. Bottom line, I recommend that you at least make it your goal to learn freehand sharpening as soon as you can do it--because your presence on this forum suggests that you're at least giving pretty serious thought to how to do things with knives under survival or wilderness conditions, and not counting on having carried your Lansky set with you is a good thing. You DO want to get to the point where you can keep your tools sharp with just a little rectangular stone in the pouch of your sheath, or, better, some flat stone you find out in the field, don't you? So, in what follows, remember that that's your overall goal.

2. Most people who start trying to sharpen knives have trouble the first several times. This was definitely the case for me, though I finally got to be the go-to guy for sharpening for my entire extended family--people now save their dull knives for me for months, and I return them hair-shaving sharp. If I can learn it, I figure so can anybody. But I'll admit, freely, that it can take a while. In fact, after I'd learned to do the sharpening-stone thing very well, it took me a few hours of work to re-learn how to do it for a convex edge using sandpaper over a mouse pad. I was very frustrated, but when it finally "clicked", I was happy to have done it.

3. A Lansky or Gatco-type system can be fun, but I've got two issues with them. First, they're bulky, and a pain to carry around. Second, they do count on putting a very consistent V-shaped edge on a (rather thin-bladed) knife. If you freehand, you may end up actually producing a slightly-convex edge, just because of the natural variation in the angle that even a solidly-hand-held blade will get with a hand sharpening. Oh, that brings up a third issue: a lot of the thicker blades (e.g., hatchet, khukuri) have part or all of their blades configured so that a Gatco-type apparatus won't work on them at all, as they won't reach the edge.

If I were in your position (or, to put it another way, when I get around to teaching my kids how to sharpen knives, I'll tell them that) I'd practice with not-too-dull knives, using a regular, medium stone. I'd start with some non-stainless-steel knife that I don't care too much about, and just get to where I'm comfortable with it. If you start with an extremely dull knife, it'll take a very long time to get even close to a decent edge, and therefore the first half-hour or so you're working at it might not give you the kind of success-or-unsuccess feedback that will tell you when you're on the right track. Stainless is hard to sharpen, often, too, so I would try to start out with some cheap carbon-steel kitchen knife you have in a drawer, or can borrow from someone in your family.

One thing I find very helpful, by the way, are the diamond-dust plastic honing blocks you can get from Harbor Freight Tools. Those will take steel off even the hardest knife edge, so hardness isn't an issue. I might wait on those until after you've sort of got the hang of the motions by using actual stones, however.
 
Harbor Freight also has a plastic angle gauge thingy for cheap that will measure angles and help you set them if you want something for a "numerical" reference to help you get started. I did.
 
Harbor Freight also has a plastic angle gauge thingy for cheap that will measure angles and help you set them if you want something for a "numerical" reference to help you get started. I did.

alright....i'm not finding the angle gauge thingy. :D I've been trying to find something like this as a reference...my sons are becoming interested in sharpening and I think this would be a good teaching tool.
 
My biggest problem with freehand was that I don't think I ever had a decent stone growing up, I have no use for anything with Arkansas in the name. I use a double sided Norton India stone for carbon knives and mild stainless and for touch ups on hard stainless knives. If the harder stainless is real dull (someone elses knife) I like the DMT bench stones. My biggest problem was trying to remove a lot of metal with a stone that was not up to the task. Get a good Norton stone that is at leats 6", some cheap kitchen knives, dull them on the stone and then cut into one side until you get a good burr and then repeat on the other. I really think the stone makes a lot of difference. That being said Sharpmaker is nice if you don't have to remove much metal. Lansky is okay for smaller blades but bad for over 4" IMO, they are a pain to hook up and I don't like their natural or diamond stones. The Razor Edge guide gets ground off with the steel in the knife since it rests on the stone too. The Skarb worked good for big knives but not so good for small ones and you had to clamp it like the Lansky. I will not use anything electronic so can't comment on those.
 
Hands down Edge Pro Apex! Spyderco Sharpmaker is also a great sharpener for lighter work and touch-up. I also love my leather strops which I have 4 different set-ups.
 
Hello Everyone,

I've always been gifted at eyeball sharpening. I'd have rather been given other gifts at birth, but...
I'm the guy that if there are fifty maintenance people in a facility and there's a drill bit or machine tool that needs work before it will work, they come and get me. I've got to admit that those times feel kind of neat!

I haven't posted to this site in a long time, if ever, so I read the rules before starting this reply. They say to be nice so I'm going to be as nice as I can.

First, let me say that I've got a Spyd 204MF and love it. If you want angles and back bevels, get it. I don't need it, but it is just fascinating to me that it works so well for so little money. I've got Spyderco knives also and think they are great. I am not a Spyderco sycophant. There ARE other knives out there. There must be some other Shrpmaker that they say wastes blade.

Following reading some thread in this Forum the other day I got two advanced plain packaged Byrd DUCKFOOT sharpeners BY200 from cyber"somebody" on ebay. I was going to keep one and give one to a guy I owe a housewarming present to.

I tried the DuckFoot & was horrified at it's inability to quickly do anything with a dull knife. I was filled with "shock and awe" with what it would do to a sharp knife. I probably shouldn't be surprised. I've got 5 assorted Byrd knives sitting here. I was going to carry one and give others away as presents. I bought them all at once to fill out an order for a discount. They are not as good as some of the $10 Taiwanese knives that you can buy every day. The black anodize looks like it was applied by a Chinese forced laborer with a paint brush. I won't even give these away. It would be an insult.

Spyderco did not put this sharpener in the Byrd lineup because a duck is a bird. They did it to duck the smearing of the Spyderco name with this piece of "sunk cost" that "puts high quality in the range of people with limited means".

So there's a case of a respected company that makes both a fantastic edge trueing sharpener and one that would make an interesting doorstop. You aren't alone in being "hit & miss" in your sharpening.

Remember this: In your search for an angle guide (if you don't have hand/eye coordination or don't want to practise or both). Don't be led into believing that the duckfoot will solve your angle finding woes. Yes, it has angles, but that is all it has. I do know how to use a diamond stone or file.

Practice: Take a dull (or sharp) knife (knife can not be absolute tin) and a terra cotta flower pot and don't quit until you can shave arm hairs. (use the bottom,top, and sides.) You can put a little dirt on the side of a leather boot and strop it when you can't do anymore with the pot. A little pot would probably improve some would be sharpener's depth perception and concentration as well.

walkin_mark
 
I admit I'm not a freehander. I'm a "jigger." Love jigs, they work very well for me, never have I gotten my edges so sharp. Own Lansky and Edge Pro and Sharpmaker. One thing to remember on the Lansky is that the angle stamped on the device is for blades whose edges are near the clamp. Take a deep blade like a Manix and you can be cutting a crazy acute angle by mistake. I did the trigonometry for a Caly III (Spyderco) and found that if I used the 17 degree angle, I was getting a 12 degree edge and 13 degrees at the tip. Now imagine what would happen with a really deep blade!
 
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