Gaston 444

[Rob_Mob]

Sounds like a GREAT idea…. :thumbup:

us hogs drink wiskey, beer is just for hydration

Gents -- you're more than welcome to join! I'm looking at my NMFSH, NMFBM, and MOABOLO as we speak --- and wondering which beauty wants to be taken around back and given a proper flogging

 

[Cobalt]

Of course….

You know, I had an SHSHII that I use to carry around at blade show that I had just to shut up anyone who challenged Busse. They are lucky they never did. That SHII with the factory assymtrical grind could out cut a razor.

 

[Father & Son Traditional Sharpening]

You know, I had an SHSHII that I use to carry around at blade show that I had just to shut up anyone who challenged Busse. They are lucky they never did. That SHII with the factory assymtrical grind could out cut a razor.

I don't doubt it at all….

I need to start playing around with putting an Assym edge on something, hmm…… what could I put it on?

Bingo, I will try putting one on the Battle Grade ASH-1 when it shows up….

Gents -- you're more than welcome to join! I'm looking at my NMFSH, NMFBM, and MOABOLO as we speak --- and wondering which beauty wants to be taken around back and given a proper flogging

My vote goes with the NMFSH….

 

[Firestrike]

This is why they do not offer sheaths

So you can put pants on it however you see fit, this from Skystorm Leather now Patriot Leather is exactly what I wanted, as in this was a custum order and his first one developed this way.

Hmm..lets try a railroad tie

not bad but lets do something else

one swing split this

it appears to bite deep

12 chops on a kiln dry 2x4

1/2 inch plywood

a downward stab, with a poke through

a lil more chopping

still sharp enough

i got a lil hungry after play time

the Wife was helping

Think my phone was dying so flash stopped working

good beer

Redneck Busse Tacos...yum yum..

Some other pics I had stored away....

 

[Cobalt]

Did you have to stab Frosty?

 

[Firestrike]

Did you have to stab Frosty?

Was when the TGLB was new and it still hadn't drawn blood

 

[Gaston444]

[video=youtube;_E7hjGNaIe4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E7hjGNaIe4[/video]

The Trailmaster went much deeper than the Scrapyard on that one...

For the record, the Trailmaster is not my standard bearer chopper in 9" knives: The 8.9" Randall Model 12 is, by a moderate margin. The Neeley SA9 beat them all in chopping, but I just found out the edge crumbles badly on wood, so there is something badly wrong in the heat treat...: Still blew away everything, crumbling edge and all... The Trailmaster's cut is behind the Randall...:

Keeping edge-holding in consideration (so out goes the SA9), the Randall is definitely a better chopper than the Trailmaster, but it loses some efficiency by being just 022" thick, well under claimed stock specs like all Randalls... This makes me favour the best chopper by size (also a 0.020" edge bevel), the smallish Al Mar 7.75" "Special Warfare", whose blade is a true 0.25" thick, and chops almost on par with all the larger knives, despite a light and thin point: Incredible, and seemingly related to the oversized handle... And its AUS-6 holds its edge quite well...:

If you have one knife that has a 0.020" edge bevel, and another that has a 0.060" edge bevel, then you can't really say the thicker one will ever have an "equal" edge for chopping...

That being said, the Neeley SA9 did have a 0.060" edge bevel, a clumsy dull piece of crap edge I fully expected to be dead last in the above line-up, so much so I initially did not include it, as you can see by its absence... And then I try it and somehow, with badly crumbling edge and all, it blows everything away by some margin... Maybe the round handle cross-section was bigger in plan view, and so just plain better at transferring force... Maybe there is hope for out for out of the box Busses after all, depending on how the handle works...

Gaston

 

[Firestrike]

Have never sharpened my TGLB and it still draw cuts across meats and veggies, even after batoning and chopping.. seems like Beef put a good edge on mine. My Swamp Rat Rodent Solution and Scrap Yard 1111 came just about as sharp...Will take the 1111 out maybe tomorrow and chop some of the same media and I bet it bites deeper. More pics coming soon.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

Why buy a blade that the handle wants to come off of?

 

[Cobalt]

Well what would you rather have a great knife made with great steel, great HT and great handle that has a thick edge that can be reprofiled or a knife with a great edge that ends up like this after hard use?

To be fair, I have never seen a broken CS San Mai blade. But in addition to the above failures, the kraton handle is all but worthless after 6 months of regular use. It starts to separate very quickly. Of course Cold Steel does make very tough knives, like the GI Tanto and their new warcraft series as well as their San Mai.

Oh and if you read what I wrote several times, Busses can come with thin edges if you wish and most LE's do. here is an example.

[video=youtube;iPOrEOBuRuo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPOrEOBuRuo[/video]

 

[Gaston444]

What is the stock thickness, edge bevel angle and edge bevel thickness of an LE?

Ideally what I am looking for is 0.25", 10-12° per side on 0.020", the Al Mar "Special Warfare" is the only one to match this dead-on so far. The Randall Model is next closest at 0.22" and 0.020".

From my experience the thin edge requirement can be enlarged if the edge bevel angle is really well under 15° per side. Not all steels and heat treatments will take such closed angles without some slight edge chipping during prolonged chopping however, but 10-12° should be possible.

Gaston

 

[dingy]

There is a test done by mike t**** over 15 years on trail master and B9 , i can not remember the name of that guy , the test shows both knives are cool , and B9 is better on chopping a little bit .

Good or bad , mostly are subjective,for example,if some one 's body not strong enough , who likely to chose lighter and faster tools , other than heavy and efficent ones.

IMO CS trail master is a good knife that more like a fighter ohter than woods pocessing tool. which must has/ have drawbacks & advantages.

 

[Rob_Mob]

What is the stock thickness, edge bevel angle and edge bevel thickness of an LE?

Ideally what I am looking for is 0.25", 10-12° per side on 0.020", the Al Mar "Special Warfare" is the only one to match this dead-on so far. The Randall Model is next closest at 0.22" and 0.020".

From my experience the thin edge requirement can be enlarged if the edge bevel angle is really well under 15° per side. Not all steels and heat treatments will take such closed angles without some slight edge chipping during prolonged chopping however, but 10-12° should be possible.

Gaston

I'm sorry -- I don't understand --- you claim to be interested in a knife that has capability of maintaining a 12 degree edge angle or 24 degrees inclusive --- then you mention you want an edge bevel thickness of .02 ---- then you mention you want it to be a chopper for prolonged use. With such specific specifications -- why wouldn't you just reprofile the best steel you can find to those specifications??

If you've done proper research --- you'd know that there's very few companies that can produce that reliably. That's the key word --- "Reliably". This is where you'd have to find a company with the best heat treatment. This is where you'd have to find a company that is willing to very quickly and easily offer you a replacement should your blade fail. Now I could share my personal opinion that 12 degrees or 24 degrees inclusive for a large chopper is overkill --- but to each their own.

Irregardless --- Busse Knives easily fit your criteria. Where's the confusion here? Furthermore -- you never addressed the legitimate points that have been already raised about your supposed objective knife comparisons --- take a Busse chopper of a certain size and compare other blades the same size. Make sure the edge bevel thickness is the same. Make sure the edge angle is the same. Make sure the weight distribution of the knife is relatively the same. Then go find a chopping medium that is the same/consistent across the knives your testing. You can estimate/attempt to ensure wood consistency by weighing the wooden pieces and ensuring a consistent circumference. Do your best to avoid pieces that could potentially have knots. Then after you've done all this --- make supposed objective claims about knife performance (since you appear to be of the empirical data type (which I respect). Now I personally have done some informal testing myself and have found that with 18-20 degree edge angle (36-40 inclusive) -- nothing beats INFI/SR101/SR77 with Busse/Bussekin designs. Now remember --- the key is to have the blade relatively easily be restored to near mint chopping condition after very hard use. Just my 2 cents here --- if we're trying to do an objective evaluation (granted that's not totally possible)

 

[Firestrike]

last pic was of slight poke through from a downward stab.....

I cannot be certain on a Battle Mistress edge, but the Factory angles and grind on this Scrap Yard 1111 does a nice job, and I call B.S. on a CSTM out chopping this guy. And in no way was the handle uncomfortable or feel like it was coming off.....The 2x4 was chopped through with the same 12 chops as performed by my TGLB.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

I'm sorry -- I don't understand --- you claim to be interested in a knife that has capability of maintaining a 12 degree edge angle or 24 degrees inclusive --- then you mention you want an edge bevel thickness of .02 ---- then you mention you want it to be a chopper for prolonged use. With such specific specifications -- why wouldn't you just reprofile the best steel you can find to those specifications??

If you've done proper research --- you'd know that there's very few companies that can produce that reliably. That's the key word --- "Reliably". This is where you'd have to find a company with the best heat treatment. This is where you'd have to find a company that is willing to very quickly and easily offer you a replacement should your blade fail. Now I could share my personal opinion that 12 degrees or 24 degrees inclusive for a large chopper is overkill --- but to each their own.

Irregardless --- Busse Knives easily fit your criteria. Where's the confusion here? Furthermore -- you never addressed the legitimate points that have been already raised about your supposed objective knife comparisons --- take a Busse chopper of a certain size and compare other blades the same size. Make sure the edge bevel thickness is the same. Make sure the edge angle is the same. Make sure the weight distribution of the knife is relatively the same. Then go find a chopping medium that is the same/consistent across the knives your testing. You can estimate/attempt to ensure wood consistency by weighing the wooden pieces and ensuring a consistent circumference. Do your best to avoid pieces that could potentially have knots. Then after you've done all this --- make supposed objective claims about knife performance (since you appear to be of the empirical data type (which I respect). Now I personally have done some informal testing myself and have found that with 18-20 degree edge angle (36-40 inclusive) -- nothing beats INFI/SR101/SR77 with Busse/Bussekin designs. Now remember --- the key is to have the blade relatively easily be restored to near mint chopping condition after very hard use. Just my 2 cents here --- if we're trying to do an objective evaluation (granted that's not totally possible)

Thank you. This is perfect. The only real reason to buy busse and kin IMHO is because of the H.T. I've yet to purchase a blade from any company that has an edge that is exactly what I'd like it to be.

This encouraged me to practice a skill, and eventually have something to show for the time that I spend.

I'm glad that I have learned a bit about sharpening and edge geometry. I'm also glad that I have a reason to practice and perfect a skill.

 

[Gravelface]

I have a 1st generation CSTM, and I actually enjoy it. Razor zero edge and comfortable handle. BUT I would never put it against a SHBM. I would never throw it like a mistress, I "might" pry with....if I had to. It's fun to take in the yard, but i would NEVER be my "go to" blade.

I enjoy many different manufacturers, and customs for many different reasons. But to ever say a CSTM is "better", well....that's just foolish.

 

[Gress]

Firestrike, Love your pics, thanks! I should say b/c I have my own TG and know it's capabilities I enjoyed your kitchen pics more Almost smelled the food

 

[Firestrike]

Firestrike, Love your pics, thanks! I should say b/c I have my own TG and know it's capabilities I enjoyed your kitchen pics more Almost smelled the food

The TGLB is at home in the outdoors and the kitchen, I have used it for numerous meals...For Thanksgiving and Christmas its the only knife I use...My wife used to laugh when I brought it out, until I bought a 25 lb chunk of pork butt with bone in, I misjudged the amount of force needed to chop through meat and bone...I had went all the way through the pork and chopped her pampered chef cutting board in two...she was a lil mad but I bought her some nicer Bamboo replacements

 

[DanR217]

To the OP, don't feed those who dwell under bridges.

 

[Rob_Mob]

Thank you. This is perfect. The only real reason to buy busse and kin IMHO is because of the H.T. I've yet to purchase a blade from any company that has an edge that is exactly what I'd like it to be.

This encouraged me to practice a skill, and eventually have something to show for the time that I spend.

I'm glad that I have learned a bit about sharpening and edge geometry. I'm also glad that I have a reason to practice and perfect a skill.

I have a 1st generation CSTM, and I actually enjoy it. Razor zero edge and comfortable handle. BUT I would never put it against a SHBM. I would never throw it like a mistress, I "might" pry with....if I had to. It's fun to take in the yard, but i would NEVER be my "go to" blade.

I enjoy many different manufacturers, and customs for many different reasons. But to ever say a CSTM is "better", well....that's just foolish.

I totally agree with you guys! Nothing against the Trail Master --- I just haven't seen any reliable evidence that shows its design and/or metal properties are superior to Busse/Bussekin blades