gauging interest in...

The third one down in the first photo looks about right to me. The rounded off back at the bottom of the handle looks real comfortable. As the handle works its way down a sharp edge there will dig into the palm. Mac
 
I am personally drawn to the second pic, with the more kukri-esque handles. I would contour the handles so that the flare at the butt would be conical, not in just two dimensions but in three. I think that if I did this well, it would make a really comfy handle that would hang in the hand without too much need to keep a tight grip.

I might also try styling the handle after a large pruning saw that I have, very comfy handle not only when sawing but when taking swings (to test retention in hand as with chopping)
 
Well, I've used a 14 inch machete and it was fine, don't see where a 12 incher would be bad for the sierra and valley areas around here. In fact, i've cut down several machetes for friends.

1/8 inch? with a full convex that should be okay. Now, I'm a bit of a fanatic on blade thickness, but I think 1/8 inch on a 12 inch camp knife would be about right. I don't see as you could reasonably get a whole lot thinner even for a machete, though. But I have seen some specialty choppers (like for bamboo) that had 10 inch blades that were under 1/8 inch on the spine.

I'd certainly consider one, though. $100 doesn't seem excessive for a good blade.
 
I've seen the woodsman's pal, but never had a chance to handle or use one...but I don't think I have ever heard a bad thing about them.

Another question for you guys:
How long should the handle be? Based on my math I have a max of 6 inches, but on paper that looks too roomy...so I am thinking maybe I should go closer to 5 inches...
 
Me, I'd do 5.5 to 6 inches with a dogbone handle. (bit wider at the front and rear than through most of the handle) - long is long, but you can always choke back on the handle for swinging and a longer handle is nice when you are wearing big gloves.
 
i was also thinking about a very roomy-handled design, with about a 9 inch handle and a 9 inch blade, so you could grip it up by the center for good balance for fine cutting, or grab by the end of the handle for chopping... but then i thought that maybe i am just trying to reinvent the hatchet.
 
yah, at 18 inches OAL, you might as well carry a 14 inch machete or a GB hatchet.
 
Siguy,

With Kestela's exellent review of the BRKT thread, it got me wondering where you were at with this project... I would vote for Pict's grip choice (on the basis that it is Pict's choice). Keep us updated!
 
i have the steel in hands, its marked for cutting.

i am going to take it to the highschool and use their bandsaw to make some cuts, as it wouldn't make sense to try it in my shop.

i am waiting on some new grinding belts and a couple of other small details, but overally it will probably take me about two weeks to get this done...maybe sooner but don't bank on it.

i am getting very excited to start on this though, if all goes well these are going to be some very cool blades.
 
here is a pic of the soon-to-be-blades with some other blades that i have already shaped and am in the process of drilling (both of my drill bits snapped, gotta get new ones :mad:)

DSCN6365.jpg


i decided to go for one of the handles pict chose, i think that it will be more comfortable to those not used to kukri style handles, it looks much more "machete", and it will be a little bit easier to make.

should i try doing a combo grind on one of these? i don't want to mess up and make something with alot of stress risers (this is pretty pricey steel...) but it could be cool to have something like a really thin convex or scandi grind for the first three inches, say, and a thicker convex chopping grind after that. i think i will probably stick to a single convex sabre grind on these...but maybe in the future i will play around with it.
 
i hadn't thought to round out the spine at all, i was just going to leave it sharp for scraping and smashing. i suppose those sharp corners are hard on a baton though, which i had forgot to think about before...

i intend to be very concious of the handle shape and finish, as it is a very important part of the knife, especially on one like this where it is easy to develop hot spots and hand fatigue.

i think i might try doing the edge like pict did, i will have to see how it unfolds...
 
Consider rounding the spine towards the point. Not to be easier on a baton, but to be easier on your hands when using the machete as a draw knife.
 
I like the idea....can't wait to see the finished product.
Now not to be terribly dense, but isn't this kind of crossing into the "jungle knife" concept, as opposed to true machete? Maybe I am off on my terminology here.
 
Last edited:
Raymond1000 said:
Consider rounding the spine towards the point. Not to be easier on a baton, but to be easier on your hands when using the machete as a draw knife.
Click to expand...

That's why I do it to my blades. It really doesn't matter if a baton gets ripped up as long as it can still hit. If my hands get ripped up that's another matter.

You might try out the mods I do on a production machete first and see how you like them, work out your methods. The transition between the foward convex edge and the thinner sharp edge at the base doesn't neet to be abrupt. I have done it that way on thicker blades and it doesn't seem to make any kind of stress riser. In fact the whole thing just kind of came about on its own as that portion of the blade stays sharp and I found myself using it alot. I decided to accentuate it a bit and really liked it. These mods just kind of grew out of how I use a machete. Mac
 
DSCN6371.jpg


about the rounded corners...i don't really use my knives for drawknives, i feel like it isn't really comfortable and i don't feel good about having my hand so close to the edge...also, in teh woods i don't usually have a good brake to hold whatever i am shaving, so it doesn't make much sense to do it that way. despite this, i think i will round out the spine to facilitate use as a draw knife, as it seems like something that there is a fair amount of interest in.

about not worrying about tearing up a baton...batoning sharp edged or thin stock knives i have beat right through several batons in a matter of minutes. it helps to have a stout green baton, but this isn't always so convenient, and i find that a round spine doesn't chew up a baton like sharp corners do. either way, i guess i could always just get another baton.

i will think some more on the combo edge, i am not sure if i am comfortable doing it at this point...
 
some more progress, sorry about the bad photos, it is starting to get dusky here and the camera doesn't like less-than-perfect light...

i drilled the pin holes and started the grinds. one is going to be a scandi and the other is going to be convex.
DSCN6392.jpg


DSCN6393.jpg


how about handle material on these? i almost want to use some of this nice stabilized wood i have, and i figure it would be fine since most machetes have plain untreated wood scales and they are fine...but i don't want anyone to be afraid to use these hard, so i am leaning towards a simple canvas micarta. any ideas/preferences?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top