General Anvil Related Questions

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Ome108

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Hi Guys,
I hope someone can give me some guidance in regard to how thick a cement floor should be in a 150sf shed.
I am a beginner, so I do not know exactly where the anvil would be placed, as well as the pole and leg vise and the gas forge.
Thanks in advance,
Jon
 
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Remember it is really important to reinforce the concrete. I would put steel mesh and fiber in the concrete. A 4" floor should be fine as the force of a hammer is spread out a lot by the time it makes it to the concrete. 1) Don't use quick set or calcium chloride as it will reduce the strength of the concrete (Don't put the slab in when it is going to be below freezing). 2) Keep the slab moist and let it cure for at least a week (preferably 2 weeks) before building on it. In the thirties many would let the concrete cure for 30 days before building on it. 3) If you think you might put a power hammer in then double the thickness o the slab under that section of floor. 4) Use at least a 5 1/2 bag mix.
 
Also should check local permits to see if it needs one. I know lots of small footage structures in unorganized/ rural area don't need one so long as it's not a permanent structure, but soon as a pad is down you may need to get one. In that case you'll need to pour it to code to pass an inspection.
 
Fiber doesn't increase strength ,it's there only for reducing shrinkage cracks.Fiber maker websites usually explain this . If you want strength use wire mesh or rebar.
 
One other tip make sure the ground is compacted, and do not pour on top of sod, as the organic material starts to decompose it will cause uneven pressure underneath as it settles and "might" cause cracks
 
Use bull wire mesh or rebar 4-6" thick slab depending on where you live... I like to keep my forge, anvil, and post vise close to one another very much like a kitchen work triangle setup. You want to make the most of every heat and have your go-to equipment and tools within arms reach...
 
I form pour and finish concrete for a living, 4-5 inches will be plenty strong. What's more important than the concrete thickness is the grade below it ad where in the concrete you put the mesh.
Make sure you have hard packed stone under the crete and when you drop in the mesh keep it off the ground suspended about an inch and a half to 2 inches off the bottom.
 
In Florida we have to treat the soil for termites if the slab is under roof and place a layer of plastic over it as a vapor barrier.
Compaction is a good idea as well as a thickened edge around the perimeter also known as a footing.
 
AntCaps said:
I form pour and finish concrete for a living, 4-5 inches will be plenty strong. What's more important than the concrete thickness is the grade below it ad where in the concrete you put the mesh.
Make sure you have hard packed stone under the crete and when you drop in the mesh keep it off the ground suspended about an inch and a half to 2 inches off the bottom.
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I just saw cut a slab on a project for some plumbing we have to add. The mesh wasn't even in the concrete, it was in the dirt below doing nothing.
 
FTR-14c said:
I just saw cut a slab on a project for some plumbing we have to add. The mesh wasn't even in the concrete, it was in the dirt below doing nothing.
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Happens a lot guys lay the mesh in than don't lift it as they go, the easiest way to do it is to pour the Crete level it than drop in the mesh push it down and finish the top.
 
SinePari said:
Use bull wire mesh or rebar 4-6" thick slab depending on where you live... I like to keep my forge, anvil, and post vise close to one another very much like a kitchen work triangle setup. You want to make the most of every heat and have your go-to equipment and tools within arms reach...
Click to expand...

Thanks,
We live in long island, ny, would you go with 4 or 6"
Thanks
Jon
 
I would dig out a 1' foundation area where the shed will be placed.

In the hole I would put 7" of tamped crushed stone base then cover it with 5" of 3,500 psi fiber reinforced concrete poured over rebars or mesh properly set (not just laid in the space). I would also dig out a 32"deep x 10" wide footer trench on the long sides of the shed and fill it with concrete over rebar.

This may sound like overkill for a 150 sq. ft. shed, but the little extra you pay for materials will be insignificant over the years you will have the shed.

Of course make sure the shed doesn't sit in a valley or where drainage or water runoff is a problem.
 
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Thanks so much for all of your great information.
I am going to hire someone to build this, it will take me way too long, and I have too many other things to do that are more important.
Should I have the cement mixed on sight or order a premix and have them deliver to the job.
I have heard of cheap mixes to avoid, but I would have no idea unless I watched them add the bags and sand and the rest of the process.
If it does crack, is their a repair for the crack?
Thanks, jon
 
GatorFlash1 said:
I would dig out a 1' foundation area where the shed will be placed.

In the hole I would put 7" of tamped crushed stone base then cover it with 5" of 3,500 psi fiber reinforced concrete poured over rebars or mesh properly set (not just laid in the space). I would also dig out a 32" x 10" footer trench on the long sides of the shed and fill it with concrete over rebar.

This may sound like overkill for a 150 sq. ft. shed, but the little extra you pay for materials will be insignificant over the years you will have the shed.

Of course make sure the shed doesn't sit in a valley or where drainage or water runoff is a problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
Is it not necessary to dig and set 32" deep by 10" wide on all 4 sides?
The two longer sides will be enough?
Where will the sill plate be attached in the areas with no footing, just into the 4-6" slab?
Thanks,
Jon
 
32 years in residential construction and I will simply say that a 32" deep by 10" wide footing for a 10x15 shed is over kill in the astronomical range.

sheds are generally built on what you would call a floating slab, a shovel wide footing 3 or 4 inches deeper than your slab all the way around will be more than adequate, unless your local building code requires something better, probably wouldn't hurt to call your local building inspector and see what is required in your area
 
This isn't a shed to store the mower and rake. This will have some heavy, possibly pounding equipment. A power hammer for steel blades will definitely shake your world. Those 32" footer will only be about 15" long.
 
GatorFlash1 said:
This isn't a shed to store the mower and rake. This will have some heavy, possibly pounding equipment. A power hammer for steel blades will definitely shake your world. Those 32" footer will only be about 15" long.
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Hi,
You guys have all been great!
Please excuse my ignorance on the subject of blacksmithing and /or constructing a shed designed to be used as a place to do some pounding.
That said, sounds like my type of idea, to somehow bring in a power hammer, maybe on the small side , and already have a planned space to be doubled up with cement thickness.
My main inspiration for the shed is:
No garage, no shed(yet), and basement with very low ceilings, hitting head on heating pipes is a problem.
Did I say the basement is already filled with a wood shop and small pace to work with metal, lathes, mills, drill presses, one TW90 2 by 72" belt grinder. Lots more old wonderful tools.
Sooooo, I like OVERKILL, As long as I can afford it.
Thanks,
Jon
 
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